Reviving a WD45
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=197450
Printed Date: 12 Nov 2024 at 1:42am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Reviving a WD45
Posted By: plummerscarin
Subject: Reviving a WD45
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2023 at 7:28am
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A while ago I mentioned in another thread that I was compelled to get my uncle's WD45 up and running again. This is a 57 model according to the serial number and has power steering. Last time I saw it run was maybe ten years ago and parked outside out of the way. I showed where the fuel tank had been removed, cleaned,flushed, then sealed. I also laid some fiberglass mesh on the bottom side where I opened up some pinholes after the cleaning, coating the mesh with sealer.   Tank is back in place. Carburetor was a mess so it has been cleaned and a new kit installed is back on. With these items done I grabbed a battery that gets used for various things and set that in. It doesn't fit the box so I went Roadkill and strapped it to the frame. Key on, push the button, clunk. At this point I decided to haul it home and put it in my shop. There I have tools, testing devices, inside and lighting for working at leisure after dark. |
Replies:
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2023 at 8:14am
| Before I get to the electricals, I have a more pressing question. I dropped the oil from the pan and it seemed to flow very slowly considering the size of the opening. Stuck my finger in there and felt something laying over the hole. I can move it up maybe ¼ to ½ inch and it stops. Can't seem to move it side to side. Is this related to the oil pump pickup or did something drop. Spoiler alert, it runs and has oil pressure. Wondering if I need to drop the pan |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2023 at 9:35am
Could be a ton of sludge in the pan. I would drop it, clean it good and have a look at the bottom end. It's only going to cost you a gasket. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
plummerscarin wrote:Posted By: Alvin M
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2023 at 11:03am
| Oil pump pickup screen that is where it is You are OK |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2023 at 10:23pm
Well, I dropped the pan since Ds4 mentioned sludge which got me to thinking good idea. Also there is oil leaking front and rear of the pan. There was a bit of sludge on the bottom and I think because there is a high spot in the center   Otherwise looks reasonably clean. Alvin is correct on the pump pickup  The reprinted service manual I have shows a screen like the one on my G262. I did some research and found an old thread where these pumps would be replaced by newer D17 pumps so appears to be the case here? Thinking of renaming this thing "Snowball". I keep finding things that ought to be addressed but have to remember this started as a just get it running type project. But I did replace the shifter boot. It had a big split in it. Took it from the WD project and it will get the new one. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 03 Oct 2023 at 1:46am
| I think like a lot of parts, old designs were eventually replaced with the "updated" or improved parts. Why continue to make the old stuff when the new stuff will work just as well. |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 03 Oct 2023 at 8:43am
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I tore one 45 engine apart that had the updated pickup like that. Sadly, that block is still on the stand. |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2023 at 10:31pm
The pan gasket set arrived today and the end gaskets are currently taking its new shape in a nut container. I had enough Plastigage to check clearance on two rod bearings. Measures out to .0015"-.002". Pushed the "dent" in the oil pan back out so will drain completely next time. Found these spring loaded loops hanging under the frame rails. Any idea what these are for? |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2023 at 10:45pm
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the bottom end of the engine is VERY CLEAN... Was it that way when you opened, or did you wash it ? ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2023 at 10:52pm
| That's as seen when I dropped the pan |
Posted By: Lon(MN)
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2023 at 5:42am
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There is a guard that is used on tractors with factory power steering narrow front ends. I have that part for sale if you are interested. ------------- http://lonsallischalmers.com |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2023 at 6:49am
| Sent you a PM |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2023 at 12:57pm
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Got the oil pan back in place with the new gaskets in so that should be dryer now. Not an easy task when in frame and dodging the steering shaft. Which brings up the next item. U joint was pretty sloppy so that got replaced. Picked one up from the farm store. Having power steering set up made removing the shaft a little easier I think because I could separate the coupling from the PS unit and not have so much to work with. Still needed heat tho. Steering effort not much better yet. Looks like I need to focus attention on the steering wheel relocate kit. I realized the unit is a gear box with chain drive. Needs serious lubrication at minimum. On to the electrics. I have a battery I use for various things. It is not enough to it turning over. Multimeter says 12.5 volts no load. Put a load test on and got 5.2 volts. Get a new battery. Now have one that fits in the box. Hook up the cables. Again, just a click. Get the test light out. I have power through the ammeter to the key switch. Turn the key on and the light goes out. What? Turns out, the battery cables are suspect. These are repair ends that clamp on to the cable. Rather than fight them I will replace them with molded ends |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2023 at 3:19pm
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I used 2/0 wielding cable and crimped ends on my D17 recently. Slipped heat shrink on after the crimp was done. Easy to work with and provides a great path for the amperage of the battery to do its job. Keep in mind the negative and positive post are different sizes, make sure you get the correct crimp for each. Negative is smaller, a lot of folks don’t realize that and wonder why their crimp doesn’t tighten up like it should. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2023 at 6:41pm
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I've used crimp ring terminals for other batteries but have not seen what you describe for top post. Will keep a look out for them. I had a suspicion there may be a problem with the starter so I took it apart and cleaned it up. Right or wrong i shined up the armature, brushes, and terminals and sprayed out the case with contact cleaner. This worked for the 170 last year when it turned over hard. On the bench it spins over good but I don't have a way to load test it. Back in it went and still no start. Next, the starter solenoid. I have a known good one but installed, it didn't help. I have 3 that all test good on the bench but no load. As with the battery cable, I have power through the solenoid when start button pushed and no cable to the starter. Attach starter cable, push button, power is lost. Put a new solenoid in. Will turn the engine over very well now. My thinking here is since electricity takes the path of least resistance, the test light lit because under no load the current had no choice but to go through the light. And the connections and contacts were only good enough to pull that current away from the light and do nothing else when the circuit is complete. Hopefully you understand what I mean. |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2023 at 12:30pm
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So, new battery, battery cables, starter solenoid, cleaned up starter and the engine turns over. Put a test light on power wire going to the distributor. I have power to and through the resistor and coil. On the distributor side of the coil there was no power until I cranked the engine over. Then the test light flashed on and off indicating the points were working. Opened the sediment valve, gas is flowing and she runs. I’m rather surprised since I’ve had to do so much up to this point. However the charging system and wiring need attention. |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2023 at 6:59pm
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I was thinking the starter button from the start. Sometimes after sitting so long they tend to go to ground instead of passing through to the starter, It's hard to pinpoint, but this is usually what happens. GOOD LUCK on the next steps... Sorry I didn't read this sooner! ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2023 at 7:23pm
Remarkably the starter button has been reliable. It has a rubber cover on it not weather checked.  Battery cables, not so much. 12v negative ground system. Delco 10DN alternator. Appears to have been wired similar to the wiring on the 170  Couple broken wires. Assuming the top one goes to ground but don't see a terminal it could have been attached to. No ground wire found on the alternator ground lug.  Steering relocate kit. Found an old thread on that. There's a chain inside all rusted up. Soaking in chain lube now |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2023 at 6:46pm
Inside the relocate kit This is one Dad apparently got for the WD and never installed it. Chain in both were pretty rusty. WD45 soaked a few days. Shaft openings are well worn but have no intention replacing at this time. Haven't made progress on the charging system but need to move out for a bit. So I fired it up and took it for a couple laps around the garden. I had freed up the pivot points on clutch and brake pedals. They work well and it seems to drive well. Hand clutch feels good. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2023 at 8:36pm
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I would dump that voltage regulator and the OLD style alternator and get a NEWER 10 SI or CS 130 Delco and install it... They have an INTERNAL regulator and much more reliable.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2023 at 8:38pm
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I have power to and through the resistor and coil. Resistor means it has an older 6 volt coil working on a 12 volt system.. OK if its working.. Keep in mind that if running problems ( no spark) occur , you should dump that coil and resistor and get a NEW 12 v coil with INTERNAL resistor.. Good longer term upgrade.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2023 at 9:42pm
| Yep, understood. |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2023 at 8:41pm
So this showed up on my doorstep today. Had asked earlier what the spring loaded rings were for. Panel covers the belt area keeping out dirt and such from the NF tires Lon provided this for the project. Thanks much. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2023 at 12:00am
| It's to keep MUD out of the belt and pulley. Dirt is not an issue. |
Posted By: Lon(MN)
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2023 at 5:32am
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Looks and fits real nice. ------------- http://lonsallischalmers.com |
Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2023 at 7:04am
| What's the purpose of the relocate kit? I don't see any gear reduction. For tall farmers??? |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2023 at 9:47am
| Hard to to count but i'm sure the driver has one less tooth....gear reduction |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2023 at 3:19pm
I came across an old thread on here. Supposedly to relocate for certain mounted picker. The seat would be located on the picker. My uncle however is quite tall and am sure it was much better to drive for him. |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2023 at 6:16am
Tooth count is the same for both so no gear reduction. Just a method to raise and center the wheel over the platform. Seat is also moved to center and a padded seat added. I'll add a picture soon showing the offset. |
Posted By: DON G
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2023 at 2:17pm
In 1958 we put a Ford 2 row mounted corn picker on the WD . That was used to raise and center steering wheel. |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 12:16am
 Couple photos of how the seat is relocated 
|
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2023 at 12:11pm
| Well it looks like I done screwed up. I replaced the sediment bowl with a “better” one but was having trouble getting it to not leak. I removed the screen briefly to see if it made a difference, which it didn’t, but in the meantime it seems debris has found its way in to the carb. Disappointing for sure since I had just sealed this tank possibly got sediment from a fuel can. It is real sensitive to choke adjustment and if it dies, restarts easily. Will be disassembling the carb to verify |
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2023 at 12:35pm
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Sounds about like my luck. Did just clean my D 15 sediment bowl and after reinstall had no leaks Had a new gasket just in case. Good luck with your carb! |
Posted By: dr p
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2023 at 7:26pm
| I think the replacement sediment bowl assembly are being made now by the same people who makes points and condenser. Seems like you have to buy two to get one that doesn't leak |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2023 at 7:52pm
| I put a new sediment bowl assembly on the 170 and have had no trouble with it. In the case of this WD45, the threads were highly corroded and the bowl showed a crack though I couldn't feel it. Rather than a new one, I took the one from Dad's WD project to use. The bowl and plastic screen are in good shape. I placed bowl in the base without the cork gasket and it seems to fit well, no rocking which would indicate the base is flat. I installed a new cork gasket then the screen as I assume the step in the glass bowl is to recess the strainer so the cork will seal against the top edge. I then tried a rubber gasket which was worse. Then tried the screen first with gasket between screen and bowl. That leaks even worse. Will try another cork gasket then may resort to a whole new assembly. Won't be back at it for while till I get a few other things done first |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 25 Nov 2023 at 11:03am
| Found some time to mess with it. Since it needed choke to run at anything above idle I decided to disassemble the carb again. Flushed everything out and though I couldn't see it well enough it appeared there may been something over the needle and seat assembly. Looks cleaner now than prior to flushing. Also opened the sediment bowl valve and ran gas out the line in to a plastic bowl and saw some debris come out that fuel line. After I had sealed the tank, the threads to the fuel bowl needed chased with a pipe tap. That debris cleaned from the threads is what I believe got in to the line and carb. Put all back together and after it warmed up a bit, took it for trip down the road and back. Ran very well in road gear. Will do some fine tuning on the carb a little later. Sounds like the water pump is rather noisy. Brakes are good. |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2023 at 4:48am
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Sounds like you had a good day! It was chilly yesterday but wasn't bad working outside. |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2023 at 6:22am
I went rogue and stayed with the existing charging system. The whole thing was converted to a 60s GM style with a totally farmricated wiring harness. Some of the materials look like stuff Dad was using at the time before he passed. The circuitry similar to a 170 wiring schematic. So, I had gotten an alternator earlier a d have subsequently replaced the external voltage regulator with a solid state type.  Yes, the harness is hardly presentable but as you can see the charging system is working  A new ammeter as recommended by DJs for this type conversion. Overkill? IDK, but again is working.  The old one didn't move at all. New light switch. The lights are mounted on the fenders but they work once I get a good ground. Only have one original style light which currently is not working. The cork sediment bowl gasket has apparently acclimated itself to its surroundings as it currently is not leaking. Yay |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2023 at 9:05am
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A battery that charges and a sediment bowl that does not leak are two HUGE things in my tractor world! |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2023 at 6:26am
 Lights work! The throttle lever may need some attention. At full speed the lever does not move all the way down and there is some spring back which drops RPM. I do have a manual to study and remedy this. Also would be a good time to check actual RPM, timing and point settings. |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2023 at 9:36am
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Plummer, I have fought that throttle thing on two 45's and a straight WD. The WD now works just like it came from the factory. It had a replacement carb on it, went back to original. Eventually got the 45's to work right also but it took a lot of effort and syncing of the governor rod. |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2023 at 12:50pm
| Pretty sure it’s the right carb. Will double check. I started by disconnecting the governor to carb rod. Pulled the lever down and it does not reach full travel. So I believe something is limiting travel within the governor body or the linkage between it and the throttle lever. I can see the linkage may have some adjustability |
Posted By: AllisFreak MN
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2023 at 7:27pm
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I like the oval muffler on there. ------------- '49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2 |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2023 at 4:30am
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The linkage has lots of adjustment available. I tried many different combo's before I was satisfied with mine. Thinking back on the prior carb. It is a new replacement Zenith. Sinking the linkage may have helped that, don't know. It ran fine, went from low idle to high in about half an inch of lever movement. |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2023 at 11:35am
It's been there since I can remember. Don't know what brand. Someone did a nice job cutting the tin to fit  Carb is a TSX 464 |