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180 smoke and miss

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marzer View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 9:55am
My 180 smokes gray with a miss. When #4 line is loosened the smoke goes away. We pulled the injector and had it tested by a local diesel injection shop. The old boy running the shop said it tested ok. The pump was rebuild before I bought the tractor but I don't know how long before. The smoke occurs throughout the rpm range. It has smoked for the two plus years I have owned it. Any help determining what is wrong would be appreciated.
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Clay View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 10:24am
Are you loosing any coolant?  Any bubbles in your radiator?

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marzer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 10:41am
No bubbles or coolant loss.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Amos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 2:11pm
Low compression...maybe a valve or a sleeve/piston/ring issue...or cracked head...

Edited by Amos - 10 Oct 2020 at 2:11pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boss Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 3:35pm
I would do a compression test and check valve lash. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 5:23pm
Swap that injector with any of the other ones. If the smoke is still there and goes away when you loosen #4 injector line, you have a compression problem on that #4 cylinder.

Edited by DrAllis - 10 Oct 2020 at 5:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 6:58pm
Originally posted by Boss Man Boss Man wrote:

I would do a compression test and check valve lash. 
I've seen posts about "valve lash". I just can't wrap my head around why the valves are more of an issue vrs. cylinder rings/ head gasket issues ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ksbowman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 7:23pm
Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

Originally posted by Boss Man Boss Man wrote:

I would do a compression test and check valve lash. 
I've seen posts about "valve lash". I just can't wrap my head around why the valves are more of an issue vrs. cylinder rings/ head gasket issues ??
  I think what Bossman is relating to is if there is not any lash the valve (s) on that cylinder make be staying open enough to cause a compression leak on that cylinder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 7:58pm
Thanks Kman Smile, makes some sense Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boss Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 8:34pm
Valve lash can go 1 of 2 ways. To tight and valves may not close completely causing compression lose and eventual burning of the valve. To loose and they aren't fully opening there fore restricting fresh combustion air coming in or not allowing all exhaust gas's out causing the cylinder not to have enough clean air to burn the fuel charge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2020 at 5:35am
Thanks for the replies. I adjusted the valves last winter when I repaired the valve cover leak. I was planning on doing the injector swap. The pump shop guy said to check the pump timing and if the flex ring going the pump will do some weird .... stuff. I will swap injectors and see   where that takes me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2020 at 7:28am
Generally, when there is a serious compression loss problem on ONE cylinder, a trained ear can hear that when cranking with the starter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2020 at 9:14am
I will swap injectors and I will listen for something strange in the exhaust. The engine has very little if any blow by. Hard to believe compression is going past the rings but who knows. I will keep digging. Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2020 at 11:35pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Generally, when there is a serious compression loss problem on ONE cylinder, a trained ear can hear that when cranking with the starter.
^^THIS^^
 

"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 2020 at 7:28am
I finally had a chance to run a compression test on the 180. I plugged in the block heater a few hours before I started to warm up the engine. Cylinders 2-5 were all 330 psi. 6 was 340
and 1 was 370. I don't know why 1 is soo much higher. I still need to check the pump timing and will do the injector swap when I put it back together. Starting to be a head scratcher.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 2020 at 7:50am
The injector may have "tested ok" but is it really ok? I've seen many times where they seem to work ok, but once I take them apart to inspect internal parts, I find problems. He should have taken it apart too. You may discover the injector is at fault eventually when you swap it with another cylinder. I can't imagine the pump causing this one cylinder issue, even when flex ring fails, they will miss random cylinders, never seen just one.
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 2020 at 8:20am
Sounds like the injector cylinder swap should point me in the right direction.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2021 at 8:04am
I've been tinkering with the 180 again trying to fix the high idle hunt issue. While aligning the timing marks in the pump I noticed rotational free play of the weight retainer. I'm curious if this would cause the ruff high idle. I have video but don't know how to post. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2021 at 3:56pm
180's were set to high idle at 2000 , above 2000 the timing was not advanced enough to  prevent flutter on many.   The 185 was 2200 and had the hydraulic advance to cure this - just a comment....   IF the 180 was set too 2400 most I  have seen do 'flutter'.
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2021 at 9:23pm
3010 John Deere diesel does the same thing. Wide open throttle in road gear going downhill the engine flutters and as soon as there is some load put back on the engine, it goes away. If you can wiggle/move the governor weight retainer thru the timing window, I'd say it's probably time for a pump overhaul.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2021 at 9:35am
Looking at the pump drive shaft it appears the weight retainer has been wobbling for awhile. Probably need a new weight retainer when the seal kit goes in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2021 at 1:09pm
This explains a lot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2021 at 7:35am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Bank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2021 at 8:40am
Am I looking at that right? The valves are in the wrong spot?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2021 at 9:06am
Yup. This was not an easy one to figure out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2021 at 6:23pm
Oh my my my - interesting !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Amos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2021 at 6:50pm
Now who the heck done that!!!!?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2021 at 9:07pm
Rebuild head and pump and should out last you. (new valves)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2021 at 5:21am
The valves where contacting at the very top edges. I don't know how it ran so long without burning the valves. The plan is to clean everything up and check contact. If it had a valve job, the interference   
should be ok.
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