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180 smoke and miss

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=175060
Printed Date: 13 May 2025 at 10:08am
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Topic: 180 smoke and miss
Posted By: marzer
Subject: 180 smoke and miss
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 9:55am
My 180 smokes gray with a miss. When #4 line is loosened the smoke goes away. We pulled the injector and had it tested by a local diesel injection shop. The old boy running the shop said it tested ok. The pump was rebuild before I bought the tractor but I don't know how long before. The smoke occurs throughout the rpm range. It has smoked for the two plus years I have owned it. Any help determining what is wrong would be appreciated.



Replies:
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 10:24am
Are you loosing any coolant?  Any bubbles in your radiator?



Posted By: marzer
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 10:41am
No bubbles or coolant loss.


Posted By: Amos
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 2:11pm
Low compression...maybe a valve or a sleeve/piston/ring issue...or cracked head...


Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 3:35pm
I would do a compression test and check valve lash. 


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 5:23pm
Swap that injector with any of the other ones. If the smoke is still there and goes away when you loosen #4 injector line, you have a compression problem on that #4 cylinder.


Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 6:58pm
Originally posted by Boss Man Boss Man wrote:

I would do a compression test and check valve lash. 
I've seen posts about "valve lash". I just can't wrap my head around why the valves are more of an issue vrs. cylinder rings/ head gasket issues ??


Posted By: ksbowman
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 7:23pm
Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

Originally posted by Boss Man Boss Man wrote:

I would do a compression test and check valve lash. 
I've seen posts about "valve lash". I just can't wrap my head around why the valves are more of an issue vrs. cylinder rings/ head gasket issues ??
  I think what Bossman is relating to is if there is not any lash the valve (s) on that cylinder make be staying open enough to cause a compression leak on that cylinder.


Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 7:58pm
Thanks Kman Smile, makes some sense Wink


Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2020 at 8:34pm
Valve lash can go 1 of 2 ways. To tight and valves may not close completely causing compression lose and eventual burning of the valve. To loose and they aren't fully opening there fore restricting fresh combustion air coming in or not allowing all exhaust gas's out causing the cylinder not to have enough clean air to burn the fuel charge.


Posted By: marzer
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2020 at 5:35am
Thanks for the replies. I adjusted the valves last winter when I repaired the valve cover leak. I was planning on doing the injector swap. The pump shop guy said to check the pump timing and if the flex ring going the pump will do some weird .... stuff. I will swap injectors and see   where that takes me.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2020 at 7:28am
Generally, when there is a serious compression loss problem on ONE cylinder, a trained ear can hear that when cranking with the starter.


Posted By: marzer
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2020 at 9:14am
I will swap injectors and I will listen for something strange in the exhaust. The engine has very little if any blow by. Hard to believe compression is going past the rings but who knows. I will keep digging. Thanks.


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2020 at 11:35pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Generally, when there is a serious compression loss problem on ONE cylinder, a trained ear can hear that when cranking with the starter.
^^THIS^^
 



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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: marzer
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2020 at 7:28am
I finally had a chance to run a compression test on the 180. I plugged in the block heater a few hours before I started to warm up the engine. Cylinders 2-5 were all 330 psi. 6 was 340
and 1 was 370. I don't know why 1 is soo much higher. I still need to check the pump timing and will do the injector swap when I put it back together. Starting to be a head scratcher.


Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2020 at 7:50am
The injector may have "tested ok" but is it really ok? I've seen many times where they seem to work ok, but once I take them apart to inspect internal parts, I find problems. He should have taken it apart too. You may discover the injector is at fault eventually when you swap it with another cylinder. I can't imagine the pump causing this one cylinder issue, even when flex ring fails, they will miss random cylinders, never seen just one.

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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!


Posted By: marzer
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2020 at 8:20am
Sounds like the injector cylinder swap should point me in the right direction.


Posted By: marzer
Date Posted: 26 May 2021 at 8:04am
I've been tinkering with the 180 again trying to fix the high idle hunt issue. While aligning the timing marks in the pump I noticed rotational free play of the weight retainer. I'm curious if this would cause the ruff high idle. I have video but don't know how to post. Thanks


Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 27 May 2021 at 3:56pm
180's were set to high idle at 2000 , above 2000 the timing was not advanced enough to  prevent flutter on many.   The 185 was 2200 and had the hydraulic advance to cure this - just a comment....   IF the 180 was set too 2400 most I  have seen do 'flutter'.

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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 27 May 2021 at 9:23pm
3010 John Deere diesel does the same thing. Wide open throttle in road gear going downhill the engine flutters and as soon as there is some load put back on the engine, it goes away. If you can wiggle/move the governor weight retainer thru the timing window, I'd say it's probably time for a pump overhaul.


Posted By: marzer
Date Posted: 28 May 2021 at 9:35am
Looking at the pump drive shaft it appears the weight retainer has been wobbling for awhile. Probably need a new weight retainer when the seal kit goes in.


Posted By: marzer
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2021 at 1:09pm
This explains a lot.


Posted By: marzer
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2021 at 7:35am


Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2021 at 8:40am
Am I looking at that right? The valves are in the wrong spot?


Posted By: marzer
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2021 at 9:06am
Yup. This was not an easy one to figure out.


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2021 at 6:23pm
Oh my my my - interesting !


Posted By: Amos
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2021 at 6:50pm
Now who the heck done that!!!!?


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 04 Aug 2021 at 9:07pm
Rebuild head and pump and should out last you. (new valves)


Posted By: marzer
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2021 at 5:21am
The valves where contacting at the very top edges. I don't know how it ran so long without burning the valves. The plan is to clean everything up and check contact. If it had a valve job, the interference   
should be ok.



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