Timing D17 injector pump

OOPS, that didn't work right. Here's my question: If you can't read the decal on the front pulley of a D17-2 diesel, how can you find tdc and then the correct 16 degrees btdc to time the new injector pump that I installed. This engine does not have the timing pin for the flywheel. It never had one according to the engine serial number and info that I looked up on the Sandy Lake Implement web sight. The original pump was seized and the input shaft was broke so I had no way of getting the engine at the correct time by looking at the timing marks inside the injector pump. It would be a great help if someone had a new decal for the front pulley, but it seems to be obsolete and no one on the agco parts system has one.

D19's and D17  Diesel prior to engine s/n 122556 used the timing strip on the front pulley

Your drive shaft is twisted off, right ???   So, you'll have to remove the old shaft and gear to press the old shaft from the gear. MARK THE GEAR TEETH TO THE IDLER GEAR TEETH SO YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHERE IT IS !!! In fact, I would remove the nut and lockwasher to the driveshaft while the gears are still meshed to be able to see the keyway to the shaft. Rotate the engine so the keyway is at 12 o'clock. Remove gear and shaft and install new shaft. Reinstall the gear/shaft meshing the gear teeth exactly where they were with the key at 12 o'clock. Now, look at the end of the new driveshaft. There is a "dot" on one side of the drive tang. Look inside the injection pump. there is a "dot" inside the drive tang socket. Install the pump dot to dot and you will be very close. Now you can play with the pump timing by rotating it in the mounting slots. Normally the pump is close to centered on the slots.

Since the input shaft was already broken, I just pulled the pump off and tried to figure out where tdc was by turning the engine over with a breaker bar and watching the valves on #1 cylinder and the marks on the crank and cam gears. With the valves both closed and the gear marks lined up I lined up the broken input shaft parts. It had a fairly obvious break pattern which put the dot on the end at the bottom with the tang fairly close to vertical and the mark on the idler gear and the pump input gear also lined up. So I then replaced the shaft with a used one and installed a rebuilt pump and lined everything up like this. With all the gear marks lined up and the dots lined up I installed the front cover. The casting tab on the front should have been pointing to where tdc should be......I assumed. However the casting mark on the cover was about 3/4" past the area where the decal was located. I find this highly questionable because I would have thought the timing tape decal would have zero/tdc on it and markings for the correct pump timing degrees. So without out knowing if we were correct or not, we calculated out where 16 degrees btdc should be. This location was at least on the area where the decal was located. I then rotated the engine to this location and looked at the timng marks in the pump.....the moving mark in the pump was just out of sight below the window when at this position. Way too far advanced to correct by turning the pump in the mount slots. I tried to start it up like this and actually got it to fire a couple times. At this time I thought we were close even tho the marks in the pump were still way off. Lots of bleeding and rebleeding of the fuel system didn't help a lick. So the next step was to adjust the pump timing by moving the pump relative to the idler gear by jumping teeth away from being mark to mark until I could get the marks in the pump lined up. I couldn't even get it to fire once like this. I'm totally stumped!

Tractor was not run for about 15 years. It was stored indoors so that's a plus. It was my bachelor Uncles' tractor.   So he never told anyone what happened to it, he just parked it and said it didn't run anymore. Since he passed about 7 years ago I just had to adopt that tractor! I brought it home and put it in the garage until a few months ago when the kids and I figured we should get it going again, so that's where we're at with it. The engine was never apart on it, so nobody put the gears back wrong. There was still factory paint on bolt heads on the engine. Yes I think we may have compression problem as it seems to turn over by hand fairly easy with a breaker bar on the crank pulley nut. Since it's been years since I worked on a diesel I didn't know what to think of that. I would think that somebody knows how to find the correct timing setup or has a manual that would explain that.