Farm Equipment - Timing D17 injector pump

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Timing D17 injector pump

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Category: Allis Chalmers
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=171582
Printed Date: 23 Aug 2025 at 3:40pm
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Topic: Timing D17 injector pump

Posted By: lyndenjh
Subject: Timing D17 injector pump
Date Posted: 28 May 2020 at 10:29pm

First let me thank you for letting me join this forum.

Replies:

Posted By: lyndenjh
Date Posted: 28 May 2020 at 10:41pm

OOPS, that didn't work right. Here's my question: If you can't read the decal on the front pulley of a D17-2 diesel, how can you find tdc and then the correct 16 degrees btdc to time the new injector pump that I installed. This engine does not have the timing pin for the flywheel. It never had one according to the engine serial number and info that I looked up on the Sandy Lake Implement web sight. The original pump was seized and the input shaft was broke so I had no way of getting the engine at the correct time by looking at the timing marks inside the injector pump. It would be a great help if someone had a new decal for the front pulley, but it seems to be obsolete and no one on the agco parts system has one.

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 8:14am

I don't think decals were ever use to mark balancers. All I've seen were marks stamped on edge

Posted By: DonDittmar
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 8:23am

D19's and D17 Diesel prior to engine s/n 122556 used the timing strip on the front pulley

If you are looking for true TDC you may have to pull the head off and use a dial indicator

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Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"

1968 D15D,1962 D19D
Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start

Posted By: MattLF9
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 8:40am

On my Case 930 and 1030's, I pull the front valve cover, remove a valve keeper and drop the valve on top of the piston, then find TDC with a dial indicator on the valve stem.

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A little CQB never hurt anybody.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 8:56am

Your drive shaft is twisted off, right ??? So, you'll have to remove the old shaft and gear to press the old shaft from the gear. MARK THE GEAR TEETH TO THE IDLER GEAR TEETH SO YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHERE IT IS !!! In fact, I would remove the nut and lockwasher to the driveshaft while the gears are still meshed to be able to see the keyway to the shaft. Rotate the engine so the keyway is at 12 o'clock. Remove gear and shaft and install new shaft. Reinstall the gear/shaft meshing the gear teeth exactly where they were with the key at 12 o'clock. Now, look at the end of the new driveshaft. There is a "dot" on one side of the drive tang. Look inside the injection pump. there is a "dot" inside the drive tang socket. Install the pump dot to dot and you will be very close. Now you can play with the pump timing by rotating it in the mounting slots. Normally the pump is close to centered on the slots.

Posted By: lyndenjh
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 11:50pm

That's what I was told but this engine had a decal. Verified by looking it up on Sandy Lakes online parts book. But marked it's don't have one. So I marked the decal location and removed it to see if any markings were on the pulley itself. No luck there.

Posted By: lyndenjh
Date Posted: 30 May 2020 at 12:27am

Since the input shaft was already broken, I just pulled the pump off and tried to figure out where tdc was by turning the engine over with a breaker bar and watching the valves on #1 cylinder and the marks on the crank and cam gears. With the valves both closed and the gear marks lined up I lined up the broken input shaft parts. It had a fairly obvious break pattern which put the dot on the end at the bottom with the tang fairly close to vertical and the mark on the idler gear and the pump input gear also lined up. So I then replaced the shaft with a used one and installed a rebuilt pump and lined everything up like this. With all the gear marks lined up and the dots lined up I installed the front cover. The casting tab on the front should have been pointing to where tdc should be......I assumed. However the casting mark on the cover was about 3/4" past the area where the decal was located. I find this highly questionable because I would have thought the timing tape decal would have zero/tdc on it and markings for the correct pump timing degrees. So without out knowing if we were correct or not, we calculated out where 16 degrees btdc should be. This location was at least on the area where the decal was located. I then rotated the engine to this location and looked at the timng marks in the pump.....the moving mark in the pump was just out of sight below the window when at this position. Way too far advanced to correct by turning the pump in the mount slots. I tried to start it up like this and actually got it to fire a couple times. At this time I thought we were close even tho the marks in the pump were still way off. Lots of bleeding and rebleeding of the fuel system didn't help a lick. So the next step was to adjust the pump timing by moving the pump relative to the idler gear by jumping teeth away from being mark to mark until I could get the marks in the pump lined up. I couldn't even get it to fire once like this. I'm totally stumped!

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 May 2020 at 6:24am

So, at a minimum you jumped teeth the wrong way if it made it worse. Chances are you were right to begin with. Either that, or it was WRONG when you got the tractor. Timing gears and pump shaft timing don't change themselves. How long has it been since the engine was run?? Do we have a low compression problem ?? I would have left it where it was when it tried to run, hooked a chain around the front axle and pulled it for a mile in a gear that would make the engine spin over 1,000 RPM to build some heat and if it then still refused to run, then think about changing the timing.

Posted By: lyndenjh
Date Posted: 30 May 2020 at 10:51pm

Tractor was not run for about 15 years. It was stored indoors so that's a plus. It was my bachelor Uncles' tractor. So he never told anyone what happened to it, he just parked it and said it didn't run anymore. Since he passed about 7 years ago I just had to adopt that tractor! I brought it home and put it in the garage until a few months ago when the kids and I figured we should get it going again, so that's where we're at with it. The engine was never apart on it, so nobody put the gears back wrong. There was still factory paint on bolt heads on the engine. Yes I think we may have compression problem as it seems to turn over by hand fairly easy with a breaker bar on the crank pulley nut. Since it's been years since I worked on a diesel I didn't know what to think of that. I would think that somebody knows how to find the correct timing setup or has a manual that would explain that.