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WD45 - Gas electrical problem

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Stanley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stanley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: WD45 - Gas electrical problem
    Posted: 19 Aug 2019 at 9:36pm
I always have to disconnect the battery when shutting it off because the battey will be dead after a few days. This has been a problem since I bought the tractor and I just deal with it. 
 The new problem: After giving an hour plus trailer ride for some of the grandkids I shut the tractor off and unloaded the cargo. Then went to restart and the battery was dead. (new battery 6 pos. ago) Some thing is draining the battery while it's running or the charging system is not working. The belt on the alternator is tight and I checked all the connections and they're tight. 
A single wire goes from the (IGN terminal) switch to the coil.
3 wires connected to the Bat terminal on switch. One goes to the alternator, one to the battery, positive post and one to the Amp guage. There are no wires on the ACC terminal or the center terminal labeled ST. The switch is a standard key switch.
What should I be checking? Thanks for any help & suggestions.
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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 4:36am
If you have an ammeter, what does it read when the tractor is running? I'd run the wire from the alternator to the ammeter and then from the other side of the ammeter to the battery. Run another wire from the alternator wire side of the ammeter to the BAT terminal on the ignition switch. Run a wire from the IGN terminal of the switch to the ignition coil. I presume that you have a one wire alternator. You could have a bad alternator, but the way you describe how it is wired confuses me. I smell a problem there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 5:27am
Sounds like the alternator finally died. The 'big ones' would fry a small diode and slowly drain the battery.....your first symptom. Now it sounds like it's not charging.
Depending on the style, you can either rebuild or replace. I would replace 100% of the tractor's wiring ( Steve @B&B has kits), that way you're sure not to have problems.
All my D-14s have the 'newer' CS130 sized alternators, freebies from scrapped Chevvies. Just be sure to get the connector ! parts stores want $20 for them up here.


3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 6:55am
Considering that your charging wire is being run off the switch terminal, it's possible that your terminal overheated at that point. Unless you have a big horky ignition switch, the terminals are probably too small for the amount of current that passes through that point. Inspect the wiring very closely at that point. Any signs of heating, including brittle insulation near the terminal, could indicate that your problem is there. This is why I suggested that your alternator wire go to the ammeter first.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 7:00am
Stanley,
 Please understand that I am not a electrician or any where close. But what you said about the wires on the battery terminal doesnt sound correct. IMO there should only be one wire on the battery terminal. That would be one coming from the Battery only! The alternator wire should be on the ACC terminal. I use a volt meter rather than a amp meter. Probably if you hav a amp meter the current needs to go through it before it goes to the ACC side of the switch. I dont know what your third wire might be coming off the battery terminal? Maybe the lights? That could come off the ACC post also. 
I do run a diode in the line back to the alternator. ( I have a 3 wire alternator, not sure what you have? )
Hope this helps just a little. We are talking custom wiring. Not extremely complex but needs to be right to function. 
I assume you have a 12 volt battery hooked up as negative ground?
 Also the ST center post is not used unless you have a solenoid in the system. Again assuming you have the old pull rod system.
Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 20 Aug 2019 at 7:04am
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Alberta Phil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alberta Phil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 10:36am
In his original post he mentions a new 6 volt batt--pos ground, if I'm interpreting correctly what he wrote.  I suspect what he calls an alternator might really be a generator.


Edited by Alberta Phil - 20 Aug 2019 at 10:37am
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 11:00am
Phil,
Looks like we need some clarification from Stanley? I thought the same things!
I bite the bullet and change these to 12 volt negitive ground systems with a 3 wire alternator. I have had real good luck with that combo!
Regards,
 Chris

D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 11:39am
I think that's a typo when he said 6 pos. He probably meant 6 mos. Here's a simplified wiring diagram that I drew up with Microsoft Paint that should apply to him. He still needs to check his terminals for heating. Of course his alternator or ammeter could be bad as well.

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Stanley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stanley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 12:40pm
Thanks to all for their replies. Sorry for the confusion, but it is a 12 volt battery about 6 mos. old. Also I have a single wire alternator and using a volt meter the alternator registers 12.3 volts when tractor is running. Re: wiring. Should I attach the alternator wire to the ACC terminal on the switch? As mentioned in my earlier post, there are 3 wires on the switch Bat terminal. one to the battery, one to the alternator & one to the amperage gauge. Currently there aren't any wires on the switch ACC terminal.
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garden_guy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote garden_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 12:51pm
That's weird... Typically an alternator will be putting out about 14 volts to "charge" the 12V battery when it is running...
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Stanley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stanley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 1:00pm
So, my problem may be an alternator that's not working properly.
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HoughMade View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HoughMade Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 1:14pm
At what RPM was it making 12.3v?  One wire alternators like some RPM before they start charging well- something like 1200 rpm.

Edited by HoughMade - 26 Aug 2019 at 1:15pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 1:22pm
Originally posted by Stanley Stanley wrote:

Thanks to all for their replies. Sorry for the confusion, but it is a 12 volt battery about 6 mos. old. Also I have a single wire alternator and using a volt meter the alternator registers 12.3 volts when tractor is running. Re: wiring. Should I attach the alternator wire to the ACC terminal on the switch? As mentioned in my earlier post, there are 3 wires on the switch Bat terminal. one to the battery, one to the alternator & one to the amperage gauge. Currently there aren't any wires on the switch ACC terminal.

Where is the BAT wire from the alternator running to? My diagram is for both a one-wire and a three-wire alternator. With a one wire there should be no switch connections to the alternator. Run the alternator wire directly to the battery cable terminal on the starter and run a wire from this starter terminal to the BAT connection on the switch. Run the voltmeter from either the IGN or ACC terminal on your switch. ACC is preferable. Do you have a hand held voltmeter? If so, what does it read at the BAT terminal on the alternator when the throttle is almost wide open?
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Stanley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stanley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 1:40pm
I was running at about half throttle when testing the alternator.
I have a hand held meter.
I took the alternator to the local parts store as they will put in on their tester to see what they get for voltage. So' I'll check tomorrow and get an update.
Thanks for the help.
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HoughMade View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HoughMade Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 1:50pm
Yeah, good to have it checked.  Half throttle is under 1000rpm, so it probably isn't charging at that speed and you are probably reading the battery voltage.  Might as well get it checked to eliminate one variable.
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Stanley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stanley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2019 at 8:12pm
New alternator put on today and it puts out 14.4 volts. 
 DougS, your wiring diagram helps. I am running a new wire from the alternator to the battery terminal.
Thanks to all for the help.
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