WD45 - Gas electrical problem
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Category: Allis Chalmers
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=163746
Printed Date: 22 Aug 2025 at 1:57pm
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Topic: WD45 - Gas electrical problem
Posted By: Stanley
Subject: WD45 - Gas electrical problem
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2019 at 9:36pm
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I always have to disconnect the battery when shutting it off because the battey will be dead after a few days. This has been a problem since I bought the tractor and I just deal with it. The new problem: After giving an hour plus trailer ride for some of the grandkids I shut the tractor off and unloaded the cargo. Then went to restart and the battery was dead. (new battery 6 pos. ago) Some thing is draining the battery while it's running or the charging system is not working. The belt on the alternator is tight and I checked all the connections and they're tight. A single wire goes from the (IGN terminal) switch to the coil. 3 wires connected to the Bat terminal on switch. One goes to the alternator, one to the battery, positive post and one to the Amp guage. There are no wires on the ACC terminal or the center terminal labeled ST. The switch is a standard key switch. What should I be checking? Thanks for any help & suggestions.
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Replies:
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 4:36am
| If you have an ammeter, what does it read when the tractor is running? I'd run the wire from the alternator to the ammeter and then from the other side of the ammeter to the battery. Run another wire from the alternator wire side of the ammeter to the BAT terminal on the ignition switch. Run a wire from the IGN terminal of the switch to the ignition coil. I presume that you have a one wire alternator. You could have a bad alternator, but the way you describe how it is wired confuses me. I smell a problem there. |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 5:27am
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Sounds like the alternator finally died. The 'big ones' would fry a small diode and slowly drain the battery.....your first symptom. Now it sounds like it's not charging. Depending on the style, you can either rebuild or replace. I would replace 100% of the tractor's wiring ( Steve @B&B has kits), that way you're sure not to have problems. All my D-14s have the 'newer' CS130 sized alternators, freebies from scrapped Chevvies. Just be sure to get the connector ! parts stores want $20 for them up here. ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 6:55am
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Considering that your charging wire is being run off the switch terminal, it's possible that your terminal overheated at that point. Unless you have a big horky ignition switch, the terminals are probably too small for the amount of current that passes through that point. Inspect the wiring very closely at that point. Any signs of heating, including brittle insulation near the terminal, could indicate that your problem is there. This is why I suggested that your alternator wire go to the ammeter first. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 7:00am
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Stanley, Please understand that I am not a electrician or any where close. But what you said about the wires on the battery terminal doesnt sound correct. IMO there should only be one wire on the battery terminal. That would be one coming from the Battery only! The alternator wire should be on the ACC terminal. I use a volt meter rather than a amp meter. Probably if you hav a amp meter the current needs to go through it before it goes to the ACC side of the switch. I dont know what your third wire might be coming off the battery terminal? Maybe the lights? That could come off the ACC post also. I do run a diode in the line back to the alternator. ( I have a 3 wire alternator, not sure what you have? ) Hope this helps just a little. We are talking custom wiring. Not extremely complex but needs to be right to function. I assume you have a 12 volt battery hooked up as negative ground? Also the ST center post is not used unless you have a solenoid in the system. Again assuming you have the old pull rod system. Regards, Chris
------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 10:36am
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In his original post he mentions a new 6 volt batt--pos ground, if I'm interpreting correctly what he wrote. I suspect what he calls an alternator might really be a generator. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 11:00am
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Phil, Looks like we need some clarification from Stanley? I thought the same things! I bite the bullet and change these to 12 volt negitive ground systems with a 3 wire alternator. I have had real good luck with that combo! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 11:39am
I think that's a typo when he said 6 pos. He probably meant 6 mos. Here's a simplified wiring diagram that I drew up with Microsoft Paint that should apply to him. He still needs to check his terminals for heating. Of course his alternator or ammeter could be bad as well.
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Posted By: Stanley
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 12:40pm
| Thanks to all for their replies. Sorry for the confusion, but it is a 12 volt battery about 6 mos. old. Also I have a single wire alternator and using a volt meter the alternator registers 12.3 volts when tractor is running. Re: wiring. Should I attach the alternator wire to the ACC terminal on the switch? As mentioned in my earlier post, there are 3 wires on the switch Bat terminal. one to the battery, one to the alternator & one to the amperage gauge. Currently there aren't any wires on the switch ACC terminal. |
Posted By: garden_guy
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 12:51pm
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That's weird... Typically an alternator will be putting out about 14 volts to "charge" the 12V battery when it is running... |
Posted By: Stanley
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 1:00pm
| So, my problem may be an alternator that's not working properly. |
Posted By: HoughMade
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 1:14pm
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At what RPM was it making 12.3v? One wire alternators like some RPM before they start charging well- something like 1200 rpm. ------------- 1951 B |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 1:22pm
Where is the BAT wire from the alternator running to? My diagram is for both a one-wire and a three-wire alternator. With a one wire there should be no switch connections to the alternator. Run the alternator wire directly to the battery cable terminal on the starter and run a wire from this starter terminal to the BAT connection on the switch. Run the voltmeter from either the IGN or ACC terminal on your switch. ACC is preferable. Do you have a hand held voltmeter? If so, what does it read at the BAT terminal on the alternator when the throttle is almost wide open? |
Stanley wrote:Posted By: Stanley
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 1:40pm
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I was running at about half throttle when testing the alternator. I have a hand held meter. I took the alternator to the local parts store as they will put in on their tester to see what they get for voltage. So' I'll check tomorrow and get an update. Thanks for the help.
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Posted By: HoughMade
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 1:50pm
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Yeah, good to have it checked. Half throttle is under 1000rpm, so it probably isn't charging at that speed and you are probably reading the battery voltage. Might as well get it checked to eliminate one variable. ------------- 1951 B |
Posted By: Stanley
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2019 at 8:12pm
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New alternator put on today and it puts out 14.4 volts. DougS, your wiring diagram helps. I am running a new wire from the alternator to the battery terminal.
Thanks to all for the help. |