220 Axle Wedge stuck

The guys who have done this say to tighten the "jack screws" really tight and then whack the end of the axle with a BIG hammer.Have the tire off the ground.I didn't know this when I fought mine years ago but it makes sence.

Get the biggest dumbest guy that will swing the biggest sledge you have and keep it up until the cast wheel gives up. That is what I did on my D21. I heated and beat and lubed and pryed. Until he came over I would have cut it off if I could have.....LOL

IG

Education doesn't make you smart, it makes you educated.

I just moved my D-21 centers so I could install the factory dual hardware. I did not have the correct push bolts. This is what worked. Cut some small peices of flat metal to fit between the wedge and the cast center. Screwed 3/4" grade five bolts in against the flat iron pieces as tight as I thought that I dared. Wacked the end of the axle as hard as I could with the biggest sledge as I could find. Tightened the bolts a little more and repeated. Wedge came out with no problem. Same procedure with my JD 4250 with the sledge. The JD dealer told me about the sledge trick years ago.

Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed

It takes FOUR pusher bolts for a 210/220 !!!.........same bolts as a 7010-20-30-40-45-50-60-80. Remove with the axle keyway at 12 o'clock and do not totally remove the top bushing....just enough to let go of the bottom bushing.

Two bolts on the top (keyway)bushing and two bolts on the bottom bushing.....

A 20 pound post maul is almost large enough for that large hammer.

I've read of JD owners hanging a length of 4" diameter steel rod from two chains so it can act as a battering ram and bouncing the end of it off the end of the tractor axle. If its a couple feet long its about right. A few have been successful leaving the clamp bolts loose, the loosening bolts tight and going out to plow or otherwise work the tractor hard.

Gerald J.

Wedge removal bolts for the 210 220 are the same bolts as a Case IH 9110. Found this out after I bought my 210 and needed to move the wheels. Saved me buying them as they came with the 9110 new.

i had the dealer do it! didn't cost much! and it was done in less than a day!

Are the wedge bolts for the 3 bolt, one piece wedge (D19, D21, 190, 200, 7000) the same as the 2 piece wedges (210, 220, 7010+)?

Hurst

1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours

210/220, on up through 7010-8070 use 7/8 bolts. they are not standard thread which is 9 for coarse, or 14 for fine. these are 7/8-12. I got a tap from my matco dealer, and jack bolts from my Agco dealer. use lots of lube/antisieze. jack bolts for 190-D21 are smaller, 3/4?

210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!

thanks Dale, you are the one who taught me!

210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!

I removed both on a junk D19 rearend that got hit by a caddy and broke tractor in half. I had all three jack screws in and used 3 cold chisels beside them as wedges like splitting wood then keep going around in circles hitting wedges and tightning bolts. This thing sat out for over thirty years. the chisel works good to drive into the hub to spread it out and remove from axle.

Jason,that's the way my 220 is.I'd still try the poundin on the axle(top and end)

acquired and installed 3 push bolts. have been adding pressure to them and running the tractor in the hay field with other bolts loose. has not broken loose yet. will try the battering ram method when custom repair slows down or the leak gets worse.

220, 190XT, 2 D17's, WD45, 2 CA's, C, M2 Forkbine

Dr Allis has my respect being a knowledgeable AC mechanic. When removing wheel wedges of the two piece type, the non-keyed half is the easiest to work with. Wheel rotation position makes no difference. Jack the tractor weight off the wheel. Install the jack bolts (3) in the non-keyed wedge and pull it out. Do nothing with with the other wedge. Many other colored tractors do not even have a removable keyed wedge opposite the removable one. This is all part of the wheel casting. I'm sure that the keyed wedge in the two piece Allis Chalmers wheel attach system design was made the way it is for ease of manufacture. The keyed wedge, which is also doweled to the wheel casting, is not to be used to tighten the wheel hub to the axle. When assembling, it should be tightened to the wheel hub first. Then the non-keyed wedge (with its three bolts) is used to tighten the assembly to the axle. Some of these wheel wedge assemblies can be difficult to remove and the three jack bolts might not be able to provide enough force to overcome years of rust and dirt. Make sure the jack bolts are the proper ones and the threads are well lubricated. Beating on the axle or wheel casting is not the best idea. Try to engineer some other way to put additional force on the removable wedge. This is all about two piece Allice Chalmers wheel wedge assemblies and not the one piece three bolt type used on D19, D21, 190,200, and 7000 ------ Dale Hardtke------

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