220 Axle Wedge stuck
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14788
Printed Date: 06 Feb 2025 at 6:18am
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Topic: 220 Axle Wedge stuck
Posted By: wrwtexan
Subject: 220 Axle Wedge stuck
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2010 at 10:03pm
| Have a 220 Landhandler with a leaking axle seal. We have acquired one removal bolt and are trying to come up with two more. Being an odd thread (12 per inch) we are are having trouble though. Dealer isn't any help. Have tried and failed to correctly remove a D19 wheel and corkscrewed the bolts even after heating the center with a big rosebud. Any off the wall ideas. We do custom repair but are stumped on this one |
Replies:
Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2010 at 10:29pm
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The guys who have done this say to tighten the "jack screws" really tight and then whack the end of the axle with a BIG hammer.Have the tire off the ground.I didn't know this when I fought mine years ago but it makes sence. |
Posted By: Ray
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2010 at 11:16pm
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I have a set of wedge bolts for 220. (every thing I have is for sale) 785-353-2392 |
Posted By: ILGLEANER
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2010 at 11:44pm
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Get the biggest dumbest guy that will swing the biggest sledge you have and keep it up until the cast wheel gives up. That is what I did on my D21. I heated and beat and lubed and pryed. Until he came over I would have cut it off if I could have.....LOL
IG ------------- Education doesn't make you smart, it makes you educated. |
Posted By: Big Hunter
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2010 at 4:31am
|
On my 190xtd I heated, beat it, soaked it for a few days then gave up. I pulled the tire and rim off, then pulled the whole wheel center and axle as a unit out of the tractor. I soaked it for about 6 months (maybe more I lost count) with a acetone/atf mixture. I put the axle end sitting on the ground so the wheel center was horizonal so the mixture would lay on it. I did that just about everyday. Then one morning I looked in the mirror and said to myself, "this is the day". I screwed the bolts in and the wedge came out. (I didn't have the correct jack bolts either. I just used grade 8 allthread with a nut welded on the end of it, and I found laying around a piece of flat metal that seemed to be harder then normal and it fit in the gap between the wedge ears and the wheel center and I tightened the bolt against that metal instead of the bottom of the wheel center.
Of course my situation might be different from yours. I've been restoring my tractor for the past 4 or 5 years....every part, piece, bolt, etc. And I have to say this....MAN OLE MAN AM i STUPID FOR STARTING THIS...lol
|
Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2010 at 5:29am
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I just moved my D-21 centers so I could install the factory dual hardware. I did not have the correct push bolts. This is what worked. Cut some small peices of flat metal to fit between the wedge and the cast center. Screwed 3/4" grade five bolts in against the flat iron pieces as tight as I thought that I dared. Wacked the end of the axle as hard as I could with the biggest sledge as I could find. Tightened the bolts a little more and repeated. Wedge came out with no problem. Same procedure with my JD 4250 with the sledge. The JD dealer told me about the sledge trick years ago. ------------- Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2010 at 6:09am
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I haven't had one I couldn't get off yet but someday I suppose. The worst one was a 200. I had to heat the cast wheel around the wedge with a big rose bud and used the jack bolts and a sledge. The problem then was I didn't have good jack bolts. They were home made. I bought a set about 15 years ago for about $4 each from AGCO. I don't imagine they are that cheap anymore. You have to keep even pressure on the bolts. On my D19 I just kept putting a little more torque to each bolt and kept doing it until it loosened up. I turned the bolts until I thought they would strip or bend and then I turned them some more. I little bit to each one. If I had gone and turned one too much without tweeking the other two I imagine I would have bent each bolt eventually. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2010 at 6:25am
| It takes FOUR pusher bolts for a 210/220 !!!.........same bolts as a 7010-20-30-40-45-50-60-80. Remove with the axle keyway at 12 o'clock and do not totally remove the top bushing....just enough to let go of the bottom bushing. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2010 at 6:41am
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four? there's only three tapped holes?
------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2010 at 7:07am
| Two bolts on the top (keyway)bushing and two bolts on the bottom bushing..... |
Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2010 at 7:40am
| Now I have to go look.I think only one wedge has has holes on my 220. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2010 at 9:38am
|
A 20 pound post maul is almost large enough for that large hammer. I've read of JD owners hanging a length of 4" diameter steel rod from two chains so it can act as a battering ram and bouncing the end of it off the end of the tractor axle. If its a couple feet long its about right. A few have been successful leaving the clamp bolts loose, the loosening bolts tight and going out to plow or otherwise work the tractor hard. Gerald J. |
Posted By: skipwelte
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2010 at 12:38pm
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If your using the jack bolts, clean the holes in the hub real good and oil the pointed ends of the screws. Ive seen the shank on the screw twist in the hole and bend. When you hit the end of the axle have safety glasses or a face shield on as the paint chips come flying off with a lot of force!!! HTH |
Posted By: Amos
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2010 at 8:00pm
| Wedge removal bolts for the 210 220 are the same bolts as a Case IH 9110. Found this out after I bought my 210 and needed to move the wheels. Saved me buying them as they came with the 9110 new. |
Posted By: Toscani SD
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2010 at 9:52pm
| i had done this on my d21 and 190xt,moved both wheels on both tractors,i had all of them moved within half hour,the trick i learned was to use the jack bolts then not hit the end of the axle but the top of it i didnt even use a sledge just a 3 lb hammer |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2010 at 12:43am
| i had the dealer do it! didn't cost much! and it was done in less than a day! |
Posted By: Dean SW IA
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2010 at 3:44am
| HIT on top of axle with the jack bolts in and tight , the vibration will loosen the wedge. Dean SW IA |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2010 at 7:25am
|
Are the wedge bolts for the 3 bolt, one piece wedge (D19, D21, 190, 200, 7000) the same as the 2 piece wedges (210, 220, 7010+)? Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: JPG AUSTRALIA
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2010 at 8:26am
| Hurst I've used the same bolts on a 190 to a 7060. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2010 at 10:20am
|
210/220, on up through 7010-8070 use 7/8 bolts. they are not standard thread which is 9 for coarse, or 14 for fine. these are 7/8-12. I got a tap from my matco dealer, and jack bolts from my Agco dealer. use lots of lube/antisieze. jack bolts for 190-D21 are smaller, 3/4? ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Dale Hardtke
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2010 at 12:21pm
| Allis 190 rear wheel wedges are not the same as 7060 and do not use the same size jack bolts. Reference InjpumpED he has correct info. including the nonstandard 7/8-12 thread. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2010 at 12:24pm
|
thanks Dale, you are the one who taught me! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2010 at 12:44pm
|
Ok, because on my 7000 (190 style wedge) it uses the same holes to push as it does to hold the wedge in, which means it should be three 3/4 inch bolts. I could never remember if they were the same or not, I think I had seen that on the old forum before, but it's been so long ago. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Good
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2010 at 1:55pm
| I removed both on a junk D19 rearend that got hit by a caddy and broke tractor in half. I had all three jack screws in and used 3 cold chisels beside them as wedges like splitting wood then keep going around in circles hitting wedges and tightning bolts. This thing sat out for over thirty years. the chisel works good to drive into the hub to spread it out and remove from axle. |
Posted By: Jordan(OH)
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 10:06am
Just started on wheel removal on my 210. The wedge with the keyway is NOT tapped for pusher bolts. |
DrAllis wrote:Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 1:05pm
| Jason,that's the way my 220 is.I'd still try the poundin on the axle(top and end) |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 1:36pm
|
7/8-12 is the thread for a 7/8 straight thread pipe fitting, so if you need a tap, that may help you find one a little easier. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: wrwtexan
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 12:24am
|
acquired and installed 3 push bolts. have been adding pressure to them and running the tractor in the hay field with other bolts loose. has not broken loose yet. will try the battering ram method when custom repair slows down or the leak gets worse.
------------- 220, 190XT, 2 D17's, WD45, 2 CA's, C, M2 Forkbine |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 9:07am
| OK....let's assume now that OLDest 220's only had pusher threads on the non-keyway bushing (which is the "wedge") and had all three bolt holes tapped for the larger pusher bolts. You will still need to put the keyway "up" and at least loosen the three bolts on the keyway wedge so it can move when putting pressure on the three pusher bolts. I'm guessing now, that AC figured out the 3-bolt method was inadequate at times and went to the threaded holes in BOTH bushings but only a total of four threaded holes not six. That would be what they call a "running" change and they don't tell you about it. Every 210/220 I've ever seen and newer 7010 and up all have four threaded holes (not three on one wedge),which allows pressure at all four corners to get them to break loose. |
Posted By: Dale Hardtke
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 11:29am
| Dr Allis has my respect being a knowledgeable AC mechanic. When removing wheel wedges of the two piece type, the non-keyed half is the easiest to work with. Wheel rotation position makes no difference. Jack the tractor weight off the wheel. Install the jack bolts (3) in the non-keyed wedge and pull it out. Do nothing with with the other wedge. Many other colored tractors do not even have a removable keyed wedge opposite the removable one. This is all part of the wheel casting. I'm sure that the keyed wedge in the two piece Allis Chalmers wheel attach system design was made the way it is for ease of manufacture. The keyed wedge, which is also doweled to the wheel casting, is not to be used to tighten the wheel hub to the axle. When assembling, it should be tightened to the wheel hub first. Then the non-keyed wedge (with its three bolts) is used to tighten the assembly to the axle. Some of these wheel wedge assemblies can be difficult to remove and the three jack bolts might not be able to provide enough force to overcome years of rust and dirt. Make sure the jack bolts are the proper ones and the threads are well lubricated. Beating on the axle or wheel casting is not the best idea. Try to engineer some other way to put additional force on the removable wedge. This is all about two piece Allice Chalmers wheel wedge assemblies and not the one piece three bolt type used on D19, D21, 190,200, and 7000 ------ Dale Hardtke------ |
Posted By: Jordan(OH)
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 8:11pm
| Mine came loose fairly easy. Did it about how you described, left the keyway bushing on but loose, got the other one loose with 2 pushers. I started soaking the PB a few days before. Didn't have to hit the axle at all. It does not have powershift rims so they've probably been moved since 1971. |