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Charlie175 
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 Topic: Hay Wagon Stacking
Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:02am |
I guess I need remedial stacking as one of my loads came loose coming down the road the other day. Same way been doing it for a lot of years. So how do you stack/load hay wagons for good secure loads? We try to get 110 or so bales per load.
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Tbone95
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:14am |
First tier, 6 bales cross ways across the wagon. They will hang over the sides some, which is a good thing. 2nd tier, 5 lengthwise 3rd tier, 1 bale lengthwise in the center, 2 crossways on each side. Should be as wide as the tier below. 4th tier, optional 4 or 5 lengthwise. If you want it more stable, 4 is kind of foolproof. If you want 5, make sure the 3rd tier below it that the crossways bales are out wide enough to support it and that these are good solid bales, more important to be wide enough than to be tight to the center bale. Depends kind of how tall you are and how flat you can swing it in when you're stacking. Dad always taught, more important to be tight to the bottom than packed tight against each other, it will "give" some this way. 5th tier, 4 cross ways snug in the center. Do you have a back on it? If not, ours don't, just put 2 crossways at the front of your stack for this first stack at the back of the wagon then 4 all the rest of the way to the front. 4 of those stacks will give you 96 or 100 bales, depending on how many you do on the 4th tier. Then a partial stack at the front can easily give you 15 more or so. Can also put a 6th tier of 3 lengthwise on (not on the back stack, the next 3). I can get usually around 120 on a load, and hit some chuck holes, the stack will often open up some, come back together, and not loose anything. Within reason of course, there's always a limit!
Edited by Tbone95 - 19 Jun 2018 at 7:22am
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Tbone95
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:18am |
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3rd tier on the first stack (the stack at the back of the wagon) is without a doubt the most important, ESPECIALLY if you don't have a standard or back support on the wagon, or often even if there's a support there, it isn't square to the bed and you don't want to rely on it anyway, which is why we just gave up on them! Anyway, have to be sure that the back edge of the bale isn't hanging off the back of the tier below, better to cheat it forward and have the front one hang off the front a little, since the rest of the hay will go against it.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:24am |
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Back in the day, I put the bottom 2 tiers on like my first tier, then followed the same pattern as above. Could get about 135 bales or so on.......the ol' wagon tires don't like that much weight so well, and I'd never go down the road like that!
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Butch(OH)
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:34am |
Been a long time since I stacked hay on a wagon but back in the day ( like a LOT of other things) there was pride taken in stacking it so it not only looked nice on the wagon but stayed on it until it got to the barn. Dad would not put up with sloppy stacking for any reason.
We had your basic 16' wood bed farm wagons with removal sides and a rear standard when used for hay.
1st three tiers had one bale longways in the middle and four sideways.
4th tier had two bales cross ways in the middle and two bales longways on the sides.
5th tier was 4 bales sideways meeting at the center. 6th tier was a single row of bales placed sideways.
When baling straw, or short on wagons a 7th tier was added same as #5
Each standard load was exactly 100 bales and the 7 high loads were 116 and you kept track by penciling a mark on the wall of the milk house.
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Charlie175
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:39am |
Trying to see how you fit 6 on first tier. That middle cross bale would really push the outer ones 1/2 off the wagon? Tier 1: middle long, 4 transverse outer. Tier 2: 2 middle transverse, 2 outer long Tier 3: Repeat 1 Tier 4: Repeat 2 Tier 5: 4 transverse Tiers 6: 4 Long. Tier 7 sometimes 1 transverse in middle
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Charlie175
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:40am |
1st 3 tiers all the same?
 Butch(OH) wrote:
Been a long time since I stacked hay on a wagon but back in the day ( like a LOT of other things) there was pride taken in stacking it so it not only looked nice on the wagon but stayed on it until it got to the barn. Dad would not put up with sloppy stacking for any reason.
We had your basic 16' wood bed farm wagons with removal sides and a rear standard when used for hay.
1st three tiers had one bale longways in the middle and four sideways.
4th tier had two bales cross ways in the middle and two bales longways on the sides.
5th tier was 4 bales sideways meeting at the center. 6th tier was a single row of bales placed sideways.
When baling straw, or short on wagons a 7th tier was added same as #5
Each standard load was exactly 100 bales and the 7 high loads were 116 and you kept track by penciling a mark on the wall of the milk house.
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Tbone95
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:41am |
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Not 1/2 off the wagon, but probably 30%. Guess it depends on if your bales are a lot longer than mine, or your wagon narrower, or mine wider, or....
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Tbone95
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:47am |
Charlie175 wrote:
Trying to see how you fit 6 on first tier. That middle cross bale would really push the outer ones 1/2 off the wagon?Tier 1: middle long, 4 transverse outer. Tier 2: 2 middle transverse, 2 outer long Tier 3: Repeat 1 Tier 4: Repeat 2 Tier 5: 4 transverse Tiers 6: 4 Long. Tier 7 sometimes 1 transverse in middle |
In my opinion, your second tier is unstable, or at least not helping build stability, where the trouble might begin. I've seen guys do things like that.....seen guys do sort of an "alternating pattern" of 4 transverse toward one side with a lengthwise on the side, then scooch it over and put the 4 to the other side and the long one on the other side. Never seen much success with that either. I like my way, to each their own!  I don't lose a load very often!
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Butch(OH)
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:51am |
Charlie175 wrote:
1st 3 tiers all the same?
Butch(OH) wrote:
Been a long time since I stacked hay on a wagon but back in the day ( like a LOT of other things) there was pride taken in stacking it so it not only looked nice on the wagon but stayed on it until it got to the barn. Dad would not put up with sloppy stacking for any reason.
We had your basic 16' wood bed farm wagons with removal sides and a rear standard when used for hay.
1st three tiers had one bale longways in the middle and four sideways.
4th tier had two bales cross ways in the middle and two bales longways on the sides.
5th tier was 4 bales sideways meeting at the center. 6th tier was a single row of bales placed sideways.
When baling straw, or short on wagons a 7th tier was added same as #5
Each standard load was exactly 100 bales and the 7 high loads were 116 and you kept track by penciling a mark on the wall of the milk house.
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Yup
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Charlie175
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 8:07am |
I can learn new tricks for sure! Thanks for the info.
Dad showed it this way many years ago and it has worked out, but I can see that it is not as stable.
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Charlie175
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 8:09am |
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Forgot to answer, yes we use standards.
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Lonn
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 8:23am |
A big round baler is the best solution 
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TimNearFortWorth
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 8:35am |
Do not remember the wagon dimensions, two New Idea running gears that came with the farm, upgraded to "Cobey units" later. 125-130 bales, 50-55# and the "Ol' man" made em' tight to get more in the barn; 15-16K bales from our place/year plus any done on shares, then totaled 20-22K+ when pole barn for heifers built around 1975 and we rented the 150+ acres next door. Some flat land but also some fields with very steep hills and over the years we always piled the same as newer wagons were built on the farm from local lumber. Flat, with angle iron brace about 4-5' from rear rack that supported wood bracing for the rear rack, attached at deck over each rear wheel. None hung over and stayed put travelling from 2-5 miles away on pavement with some decent hills and downhill curves at intersections; 4th low and high on D-Series all the way. I piled all wagons starting at 12 yo and never wanted to be in that hot mow but it used to irk me when brothers took turns hauling as one would jump in the swimming pool between loads while the other hauled. Twine side down, one each side with center bale running front to back. 5 rows high, then tied together with the next row with two, side to side. Final row was a single that tied it all together up top. Only room left was where I stood at front of wagon and some bales were added there for road transit if we were not close to barn. Had to be on my toes when Dad feathered the clutch on steep hills as he could tighten the load when he felt it was not tight enough as they did shift coming down long grades due to baler flywheel surging at constant rpms. He had the "touch", even on nearly full loads and I remember the tractor tire lug marks on those hills where he tightened the load. We tried old surge milker straps nailed across the first couple of feet of the wooden deck to hold the bales but it was not worth it. At 82 years old, he still likes to say "we never lost a bale" and we didn't. 2-3 weeks of running flat out on first cutting and all of us boys leaned out every year. BTW, he put a thrower on that New Holland baler the year I left and hated it. Claimed he could not make a bale nearly as tight and could not get as much tonnage in the dairy barn. The same "flat" wagons had sides added for the "kicker" and only held around 105-110 "banana bales" as he called them. Good memories for sure.
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Charlie175
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 8:57am |
Lonn wrote:
A big round baler is the best solution
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Yep. Farmer next door was rolling rounds in his Cab tractor. Looked nice and cool...
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Allis dave
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 9:00am |
Fun stories.. Tier 1 (bottom): =|= Tier 2 |== Tier 3 ==| Tier 4 |== Tier 5 =|= Tier 6 ||| Tier 7 =
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Tbone95
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 9:01am |
Allis dave wrote:
Fun stories.. Tier 1 (bottom): =|= Tier 2 |== Tier 3 ==| Tier 4 |== Tier 5 =|= Tier 6 ||| Tier 7 = |
Personally do not care for that strategy. Seen it around a lot.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 9:02am |
Got a visual of one "rolling" down one of those Shenandoah hills! 
Edited by Tbone95 - 19 Jun 2018 at 9:03am
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exSW
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 9:05am |
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One trick we used was flip the bales upside down from the way they came out of the baler.Knots down.
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Charlie175
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 9:20am |
It happens! 
Luckily our land is sort of flat. If Rounds sold for as much as squares then I would switch today!
Tbone95 wrote:
Got a visual of one "rolling" down one of those Shenandoah hills! |
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Tbone95
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 11:01am |
Charlie175 wrote:
It happens!
Luckily our land is sort of flat. If Rounds sold for as much as squares then I would switch today!
Tbone95 wrote:
Got a visual of one "rolling" down one of those Shenandoah hills! |
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Hear ya! I make rounds for feeding my cows, and squares for selling!
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AC7060IL
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 11:30am |
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Bolt a stop board (2"x6") laying it flat across rear edge of wagon bed. This board help 1tier bales from sliding or vibrating off rear of wagon. Place tier 1 bales on edge & push against rear stop board.
I have also seen some wagons have rear & side stop boards. Place bales over top side stop boards. It helps to hold tier 1 from shifting & angles rest of load inward toward center of wagon.
Create bale ties ==I or I== as needed per quality if bales. Soft spongy rounded bales hard more challenging. Straight edge square surfaces stack easier. Maybe your baler needs its knife sharpened or replaced??
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AC7060IL
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 11:32am |
Lonn wrote:
A big round baler is the best solution
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LOL!
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Brian F(IL)
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 12:54pm |
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If you've ever had to use a hay fork (with rope going up through the barn) to unload your rack, you learn to have very consistent tiers as you call them. The hay fork "sticks" eight bales at a time. We usually had one guy on the fork, one on the trip rope, one guy using a tractor or truck to pull the bales up into the hay mow and then four or five guys inside the barn stacking. You always had to be on your toes and paying attention.
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bradley6874
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 1:38pm |
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Wagons ar 8 w 20 long with 7 ft tall tail board and a 2-4 bolted down the edge to stop side slide 5 per layer
1st |==
2nd ==|
3rd.|==
4th ==|
5th |==
6th ==|
7th |==
8th ==
next teir starts opposite side six teirs long load 240 with six on the front edge of the wagon baled and deliver over 10000 last year and yes we tie them down mainly for the cops and unsecured load makes it your fault automatically.in MD
Edited by bradley6874 - 20 Jun 2018 at 9:08am
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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Charlie175
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 1:41pm |
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Tandem wagons? That's pushing 5-6 tons
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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victoryallis
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 2:10pm |
Allis dave wrote:
Fun stories.. Tier 1 (bottom): =|= Tier 2 |== Tier 3 ==| Tier 4 |== Tier 5 =|= Tier 6 ||| Tier 7 = |
We do the same only layer 5 is the same as layer 3. Works very well here.
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bradley6874
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 3:45pm |
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Charlie not very often if we do it's with the tractor we use 8 or 10 ton gears and it's primarily straw
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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cabinhollow
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 4:37pm |
victoryallis wrote:
Allis dave wrote:
Fun stories.. Tier 1 (bottom): =|= Tier 2 |== Tier 3 ==| Tier 4 |== Tier 5 =|= Tier 6 ||| Tier 7 = |
We do the same only layer 5 is the same as layer 3. Works very well here. |
I stack the same way, only my back board is angled back. That way each stack/layer overlaps the one behind it. The hay does not move. I have a 20' trailer and if I am selling a load (200 bales), I will put 173 on the trailer and the rest in the truck. I also have 4- 10' long frames x 1/2" tubing, bent at 90%, that go down the top on each side. 4 straps across and 1 fount to back and you are ready to hit the road.
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DougG
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Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 5:47pm |
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Allis made a bale thrower,, always wanted to see one work, must have been tight bales to survive
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