Hay Wagon Stacking
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=151387
Printed Date: 18 Jan 2025 at 5:08pm
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Topic: Hay Wagon Stacking
Posted By: Charlie175
Subject: Hay Wagon Stacking
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:02am
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I guess I need remedial stacking as one of my loads came loose coming down the road the other day. Same way been doing it for a lot of years. So how do you stack/load hay wagons for good secure loads? We try to get 110 or so bales per load. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Replies:
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:14am
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First tier, 6 bales cross ways across the wagon. They will hang over the sides some, which is a good thing. 2nd tier, 5 lengthwise 3rd tier, 1 bale lengthwise in the center, 2 crossways on each side. Should be as wide as the tier below. 4th tier, optional 4 or 5 lengthwise. If you want it more stable, 4 is kind of foolproof. If you want 5, make sure the 3rd tier below it that the crossways bales are out wide enough to support it and that these are good solid bales, more important to be wide enough than to be tight to the center bale. Depends kind of how tall you are and how flat you can swing it in when you're stacking. Dad always taught, more important to be tight to the bottom than packed tight against each other, it will "give" some this way. 5th tier, 4 cross ways snug in the center. Do you have a back on it? If not, ours don't, just put 2 crossways at the front of your stack for this first stack at the back of the wagon then 4 all the rest of the way to the front. 4 of those stacks will give you 96 or 100 bales, depending on how many you do on the 4th tier. Then a partial stack at the front can easily give you 15 more or so. Can also put a 6th tier of 3 lengthwise on (not on the back stack, the next 3). I can get usually around 120 on a load, and hit some chuck holes, the stack will often open up some, come back together, and not loose anything. Within reason of course, there's always a limit!
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Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:18am
| 3rd tier on the first stack (the stack at the back of the wagon) is without a doubt the most important, ESPECIALLY if you don't have a standard or back support on the wagon, or often even if there's a support there, it isn't square to the bed and you don't want to rely on it anyway, which is why we just gave up on them! Anyway, have to be sure that the back edge of the bale isn't hanging off the back of the tier below, better to cheat it forward and have the front one hang off the front a little, since the rest of the hay will go against it. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:24am
| Back in the day, I put the bottom 2 tiers on like my first tier, then followed the same pattern as above. Could get about 135 bales or so on.......the ol' wagon tires don't like that much weight so well, and I'd never go down the road like that! |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:34am
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Been a long time since I stacked hay on a wagon but back in the day ( like a LOT of other things) there was pride taken in stacking it so it not only looked nice on the wagon but stayed on it until it got to the barn. Dad would not put up with sloppy stacking for any reason. We had your basic 16' wood bed farm wagons with removal sides and a rear standard when used for hay. 1st three tiers had one bale longways in the middle and four sideways. 4th tier had two bales cross ways in the middle and two bales longways on the sides. 5th tier was 4 bales sideways meeting at the center. 6th tier was a single row of bales placed sideways. When baling straw, or short on wagons a 7th tier was added same as #5 Each standard load was exactly 100 bales and the 7 high loads were 116 and you kept track by penciling a mark on the wall of the milk house. |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:39am
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Trying to see how you fit 6 on first tier. That middle cross bale would really push the outer ones 1/2 off the wagon? Tier 1: middle long, 4 transverse outer. Tier 2: 2 middle transverse, 2 outer long Tier 3: Repeat 1 Tier 4: Repeat 2 Tier 5: 4 transverse Tiers 6: 4 Long. Tier 7 sometimes 1 transverse in middle ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:40am
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1st 3 tiers all the same?
------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Butch(OH) wrote:Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:41am
| Not 1/2 off the wagon, but probably 30%. Guess it depends on if your bales are a lot longer than mine, or your wagon narrower, or mine wider, or.... |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:47am
In my opinion, your second tier is unstable, or at least not helping build stability, where the trouble might begin. I've seen guys do things like that.....seen guys do sort of an "alternating pattern" of 4 transverse toward one side with a lengthwise on the side, then scooch it over and put the 4 to the other side and the long one on the other side. Never seen much success with that either. I like my way, to each their own!
 I don't lose a load very often! |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 7:51am
Yup
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Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 8:07am
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I can learn new tricks for sure! Thanks for the info. Dad showed it this way many years ago and it has worked out, but I can see that it is not as stable. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 8:09am
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Forgot to answer, yes we use standards. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 8:23am
A big round baler is the best solution  ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 8:35am
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Do not remember the wagon dimensions, two New Idea running gears that came with the farm, upgraded to "Cobey units" later. 125-130 bales, 50-55# and the "Ol' man" made em' tight to get more in the barn; 15-16K bales from our place/year plus any done on shares, then totaled 20-22K+ when pole barn for heifers built around 1975 and we rented the 150+ acres next door. Some flat land but also some fields with very steep hills and over the years we always piled the same as newer wagons were built on the farm from local lumber. Flat, with angle iron brace about 4-5' from rear rack that supported wood bracing for the rear rack, attached at deck over each rear wheel. None hung over and stayed put travelling from 2-5 miles away on pavement with some decent hills and downhill curves at intersections; 4th low and high on D-Series all the way. I piled all wagons starting at 12 yo and never wanted to be in that hot mow but it used to irk me when brothers took turns hauling as one would jump in the swimming pool between loads while the other hauled. Twine side down, one each side with center bale running front to back. 5 rows high, then tied together with the next row with two, side to side. Final row was a single that tied it all together up top. Only room left was where I stood at front of wagon and some bales were added there for road transit if we were not close to barn. Had to be on my toes when Dad feathered the clutch on steep hills as he could tighten the load when he felt it was not tight enough as they did shift coming down long grades due to baler flywheel surging at constant rpms. He had the "touch", even on nearly full loads and I remember the tractor tire lug marks on those hills where he tightened the load. We tried old surge milker straps nailed across the first couple of feet of the wooden deck to hold the bales but it was not worth it. At 82 years old, he still likes to say "we never lost a bale" and we didn't. 2-3 weeks of running flat out on first cutting and all of us boys leaned out every year. BTW, he put a thrower on that New Holland baler the year I left and hated it. Claimed he could not make a bale nearly as tight and could not get as much tonnage in the dairy barn. The same "flat" wagons had sides added for the "kicker" and only held around 105-110 "banana bales" as he called them. Good memories for sure.
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Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 8:57am
Yep. Farmer next door was rolling rounds in his Cab tractor. Looked nice and cool... ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 9:00am
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Fun stories.. Tier 1 (bottom): =|= Tier 2 |== Tier 3 ==| Tier 4 |== Tier 5 =|= Tier 6 ||| Tier 7 =
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Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 9:01am
Personally do not care for that strategy. Seen it around a lot.
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Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 9:02am
Got a visual of one "rolling" down one of those Shenandoah hills!
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Posted By: exSW
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 9:05am
| One trick we used was flip the bales upside down from the way they came out of the baler.Knots down. |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 9:20am
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It happens!  Luckily our land is sort of flat. If Rounds sold for as much as squares then I would switch today!
------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 11:01am
Hear ya! I make rounds for feeding my cows, and squares for selling!
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Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 11:30am
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Bolt a stop board (2"x6") laying it flat across rear edge of wagon bed. This board help 1tier bales from sliding or vibrating off rear of wagon. Place tier 1 bales on edge & push against rear stop board. I have also seen some wagons have rear & side stop boards. Place bales over top side stop boards. It helps to hold tier 1 from shifting & angles rest of load inward toward center of wagon. Create bale ties ==I or I== as needed per quality if bales. Soft spongy rounded bales hard more challenging. Straight edge square surfaces stack easier. Maybe your baler needs its knife sharpened or replaced?? |
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 11:32am
LOL! |
Posted By: Brian F(IL)
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 12:54pm
| If you've ever had to use a hay fork (with rope going up through the barn) to unload your rack, you learn to have very consistent tiers as you call them. The hay fork "sticks" eight bales at a time. We usually had one guy on the fork, one on the trip rope, one guy using a tractor or truck to pull the bales up into the hay mow and then four or five guys inside the barn stacking. You always had to be on your toes and paying attention. |
Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 1:38pm
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Wagons ar 8 w 20 long with 7 ft tall tail board and a 2-4 bolted down the edge to stop side slide 5 per layer 1st |== 2nd ==| 3rd.|== 4th ==| 5th |== 6th ==| 7th |== 8th == next teir starts opposite side six teirs long load 240 with six on the front edge of the wagon baled and deliver over 10000 last year and yes we tie them down mainly for the cops and unsecured load makes it your fault automatically.in MD ------------- You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 1:41pm
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Tandem wagons? That's pushing 5-6 tons ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 2:10pm
We do the same only layer 5 is the same as layer 3. Works very well here. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 3:45pm
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Charlie not very often if we do it's with the tractor we use 8 or 10 ton gears and it's primarily straw ------------- You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul |
Posted By: cabinhollow
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 4:37pm
I stack the same way, only my back board is angled back. That way each stack/layer overlaps the one behind it. The hay does not move. I have a 20' trailer and if I am selling a load (200 bales), I will put 173 on the trailer and the rest in the truck. I also have 4- 10' long frames x 1/2" tubing, bent at 90%, that go down the top on each side. 4 straps across and 1 fount to back and you are ready to hit the road. |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 5:47pm
| Allis made a bale thrower,, always wanted to see one work, must have been tight bales to survive |
Posted By: Auntwayne
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 9:06pm
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Swimming pool? We had a 200 gallon water tank with a round 35 gallon coal heater inside for keeping the water from freezing in the winter. That tank slimmed up green along the outer walls and heater creating a perfect environment for some type of black biting bug that bit us nonstop. and if you kept your head under water long enough, you gave the cows a good startle when they took a drink. And we liked it ! ------------- Dad always said," If you have one boy, you have a man. If you have two boys, you have two boys". "ALLIS EXPRESS" |
Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2018 at 9:21pm
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Like Brian F.(IL) we had a "bale fork" that had 4 curved
tines on each side and we put ten bales up at a pull... But unlike Brian, we
had a hay hoist up in the mow and there was the 'guide/trip' rope and
the start-stop-brake rope and one man could put up hay without somebody
else around but two people worked better, one setting and tripping and
pulling the carriage out while the other ran the start stop and assist
in pulling the carriage out... Sure was fun when you could slow that
bale fork down just before it reached the setter's hands so he could grab
it and swing it around to set on the front or the back set of bales (4
and 4 with 2 length-ways in the middle) then step the tines in on one side, step
over and set the other side, step back and the
start rope would be pulled and start lifting the bales... and if there
are people stacking in the mow, they would holler "TRIP" and ten bales
would land near they were stacking... When I first started
helping with bales, we had 12 foot hay racks... which held exactly 20
bales to a layer and took only 2 settings to clear a layer... and
then got 14 foot wagons and had a place to stand to finish the load and
then place 4 up the front on each side...and threw an 'extra' rider on
the fork, sometimes two... for 12 bales going up into the barn.
Then we got 16 foot racks and had 25 bales to a layer...
first four layers were 100 bales and the next two layers were set half
bale width in without the center bale down the middle and that was 34 or
36 depending on if you stacked them one-on-top of the other or did
another 1/2 step and then the top tie of one across the middle. Could
figure those loads were 140 or so bales... If we knew we had enough wagons, then we stacked one layer less, or around 120 bale load. I did
most of the stacking on the wagons back then, had 9 wagons that we could
fill, and anything left after they were full, would be round baled up.
All the fancy layerings of hay would have slowed putting bales up in
the barn having to reposition them for the bale fork... so that was the
reason for a basic stacked load. Biggest thing is to make good solid
bales and stack the hardest sides of the bale to the outside which
usually was the cut side and the knot end, but not always... Three
wagons had the back standards and two had 30" sides and on the back and
the rest had 2x4 edges and on the very back. Can't say
we didn't lose any bales, but we never lost a bale on the road and we
were up to 6 miles from home sometimes. Can honestly say I hate them
dang pocket-gophers and their mounds with a vengence. Later we got a throw baler and 3 throw racks and put in a hay conveyor.
Don't like it that well, and some days I sure miss the old bale fork and
nicely stacked wagons... bales were square and weren't twisted bent or
crooked... or broken in the wagon. But now, most of the hay
is baled up round and try to get some squares up for the calves and any cows
that have to come into the barn... and to feed in the bunk during really bad weather.
------------- He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 1:18am
| I don't remember the dementions of our old hay wagons either, but dad always made them wider than anyone else, length was prolly about 18 ft or so, 4x6 stringers, 4x4 cross members and 1x12 floor boards with a 2x4 edge. we had steep hills and the 2x4 would usually keep the load on the wagon, not always tho. never had any with a back on them. would have been nice quite a few times. the dude that baled for us always made the bales heavy, so we would stack as high as we could throw them, sometimes we could get a higher load if someone was on the rack to stack. we didn't have far to take to the big stack at home. and he didn't work us to death when it was hot. |
Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 8:52am
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20x8 wagons 1 |== 2 ==| 3 |== 4 ==| Cap |lll| I put the 3 center bales on their edge and one on each side flat. I stagger the next rick opposite from the one in front. 25 to the Rick makes it easy to count. If going any distance I strap the front and rear across. Never had a problem and I don't let anyone walk or stand on the bales as we are loading. That will make a loose load in a hurry.if they can't put the cap on without standing on the next rick they get to load from the ground. By the way I got straw to bale in the next few days if anyone wants training , training cost will be low!!! ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |
Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 10:01am
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Allisrutledge you should have had them time the GOTO at gray to coincide with your straw and you could have had "demonstrations" and probably charged for letting us pick up straw
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Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 11:38am
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Hmm, next time, but let's not tell anyone. ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 4:50pm
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I tie the second stack in with the first. This way you also have steps to the higher bales. On the second tier you place a bale that is on both the first stack and over the bottom of the second stack. This way you never have a stack of bales that are not tied into the next stack. After you have five bales at the back you would need to start the bottom of the second stack before completing the second tier. Clear as mud I suppose without a picture. |
Posted By: Ted in NE-OH
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 8:52pm
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There is a reason why hay wagons have a slanted back. As you stack and keep pushing bales to the back each row partially overlaps the row behind it and adds to the stability. ------------- CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914 |
Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 10:37pm
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A local auctioneer puts one wagon on his trailer. Then he pulls that wagon up on top of the other wagon. Then he pulls the two stacked wagons on the trailer. I don't think he would want to go any higher! ------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446 |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2018 at 10:47pm
| Ted...the ones with the slanted backs are for loading the bales with a 8-pack loader on a tractor, when loaded the bales will all be flat and then over lap about a 1/2 bale backwards on each level. it's for load fast and "git"! usually not many bales on each load. not like hand loading. you'll see on the front of the loads how they are stair stepped as they go higher. plus it keeps them from rolling off the back |
Posted By: cabinhollow
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2018 at 6:14am
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I have been stacking hay by hand for almost 50 years and it has always been on a slanted back wagon. 2"-3" overlap per layer. Also, stack with the outsides straight ( gaps inside the stack) for the first 3 layers, then let the next layers start sloping in. Here you are going uphill or downhill or around the side of a hill. Sometimes all within 50'. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2018 at 6:57am
I took over Dads custom baling when I was 15 years old and at 80 I still don't use a back standard on my wagons.  
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Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2018 at 7:51am
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Any back we had on a wagon, someone would always pull under a tree, simply gave up on them. We use the same wagons for big rounds as we do for square, and the backs are almost in the way for rounds. We "tie" a temporary 4x4 on the back and front when hauling rounds, acts like a chock so they don't roll off. The steepest of hills, just don't take the wagon there, bring the hay to the wagon, or the bale didn't stay up there anyway! PERSONALLY, a preference, all this talk of "tie in", is one approach. My method, the stack can give A LOT without going off, and if you hit a chuck hole or something, one corner will give, and not fall off (within reason). And in the event that you do lose a few bales, you only lose a few, and don't loosen the rest of the stack at the same time. Any luck, I'll be square baling tonight and I'll post a pic. Proud to be unique! LOL
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Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2018 at 10:11am
 Sorry about the poor pictures guys. Like the hay hook in the view here, lol. Was in motion and very bright out and I didn't see it. So that's my daughter driving. Deere 2555, NH 273 baler. Too cold to bale at like 69F Was 97 on Sunday, shoulda started then!!!  So this is what the overhang typically looks like, not 30% like I said, more like 15%, helps make a nice wide base, and the side boards dish it upwards ever so slightly.  The finished product. This is the field where I learned that a rolling harrow, even with a buster bar, does NOT fill in uneven areas from plowing and discing! So the back of field is rough to begin with, and then last years was so wet made ruts round baling. So this load is only 5 high, and only 4 bales on the 4th tier. With good heavy bales and a little smoother ride, I often put 5 on there, no problem. And same goes for 6th tier, would be 3 up there, but this load is getting backed into a shed that 6 won't fit under, waiting for a customer, so no point in putting them up there just to take 'em off and haul them home. Same load. The brown short crappy looking ones on the lower left of the pic are the ones left in the baler from last year. There are 109 bales on the wagon.  My daughter in front of the barn my Grandpa built. Not sure how much longer the ol' barn will be with us  This is a nice 6 tier load, 115 on this one. Typical photo of round baler inaction. That's not a typo, space left out on purpose  Friggin' contraption anyhow!!!Sorry, not the best of pics, but thanks for looking.
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Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2018 at 2:31pm
| Thanks for posting the pictures. Love that barn and I am always jealous of flat hay fields. Riding my hay wagon is like a rollercoaster. |
Posted By: cabinhollow
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2018 at 9:32pm
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TB, Your windrows are about 1/3 size for me. ( have a inline baler ) And your wagon load is about 2/3 what I do on my hills. I start on the steep parts for the first 1/2 of the load, then go to the not so steep parts to top off the load. 150+ bales per load And I am getting ready to dump my wagons. Just about have two bales sweeps built. When I get it all setup, I will move 40 bales to the barn at a time, from the seat of the tractor. And the barn, if it was on my farm, my wife would be making me turning it into a house for her. On the plus side, she would let me park my B in the living room. |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2018 at 10:55pm
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I learned to stack from my Dad, not sure where he learned to stack. Apparently we like to utilize out hayrack space! We stack our hay against the back on 8x16 wagons. We have rolling hills but nothing extremely steep. And all fields are right down the lane from the farm. 1st level === 2nd level l==l 3rd === 4th l==l 5th === 6th lllll  ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2018 at 12:29am
 We always stacked on the truck like bradly6874 said, but only 7 high, with the long bale in the middle on 7th tier..it's not that way this time...but ya get the idea But this is the way I like to stack em
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Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2018 at 7:01am
Those windrows are very small, not "typical" of what I do. Dad raked it......not sure why he didn't double them up.....maybe to be sure it dried. Very dry this year too, so hay is short.  As I said earlier, I often put 120-125 on a load, and this one was only 109. Nice place to stop right by the driveway!
And besides, some of my ol' tires aren't worth the risk of big loads. Doesn't save any time anyway.....especially when a tire blows going down the road and you get to change a tire and restack the load! Haha.....Original question was, guy wanted to stack around 100 bales. |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2018 at 7:18am
We put 48 bales on a load
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Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2018 at 7:45am
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Cheater!
------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: farminharmon
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2018 at 1:18pm
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Tier 1: =ll= Tier 2: lllll Tier 3: =l= Tier 4: llll Tier 5: lll Tier 6: = Tier 7: l 4 rows of these for 104 bales then very front row is 20 stacked as so. llllll lllll llll lll = l Total wagon load of 125 bales. Works perfect. ------------- B110 CA D10II (2)D12III 5040 5050 6080 170 JD5205 Kubota M9000 Kubota M95S |