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AC 5050 brakes |
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Donkey376 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2018 Location: New York Points: 16 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 15 Apr 2018 at 6:19am |
Has anyone ever attempted to change the brakes on a 5050? I have the manual finally and it doesn't look too bad....but I was wondering how bad those pivot pins come out? I don have access to torches anymore....
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bozrae ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Jul 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 165 |
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It's likely you'll need a torch unless your pins aren't rusted to bad, then you may be able to just pull them out.I did both sides of the brakes on my 5050 a few months ago, but I did end up using a torch to cut out the old bands and then pounded out the pins with a punch.
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D15D, D17G, 170G, 175D, and two 5050FWA
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Donkey376 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2018 Location: New York Points: 16 |
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Didn't happen to take any pics did you? I've never done anything like this before....I'm used to my Farmall Cub lol.
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bozrae ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Jul 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 165 |
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The pictures I have may not be real useful, but here they are. The side shown in the pictures was the most difficult to remove because they were filled with muddy, rusty gunk. The brake lever shaft needs to be removed first and I had to heat the tapered bolt holding it onto the lever also. Putting the brake bands back in can be tricky, but with patience it is possible. |
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D15D, D17G, 170G, 175D, and two 5050FWA
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bozrae ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Jul 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 165 |
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A good source of parts I found is: Ricks Ag Parts LLC
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D15D, D17G, 170G, 175D, and two 5050FWA
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Donkey376 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2018 Location: New York Points: 16 |
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Those are helpful! The only tractor experience I have is with my Cub I use to mow our land...
What'd you use to yank the finals? Engine hoist? |
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bozrae ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Jul 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 165 |
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The 5050 is a little more complex than a Cub, but once its back in working order you'll probably find it a good usable tractor.
I used an engine type puller or 'cherry picker' to remove the axle housing. I did find one picture with the chains attached to the housing. |
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D15D, D17G, 170G, 175D, and two 5050FWA
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Donkey376 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2018 Location: New York Points: 16 |
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Its def a different animal than the cub! Thank you very much for your help...I'll tackle it soon.
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Dan Hauter ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 06 Feb 2011 Location: Carlinville, IL Points: 1254 |
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I have a 5050 and so does a friend. Good, tough little tractors. They're actually Fiats.
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Donkey376 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2018 Location: New York Points: 16 |
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I love mine but just wish I had more time to tackle it...the wiring is completely butchered. Someone put a newer 1 wire alternator on it and nothing really works (ignition is bypassed too)...Sometime Ill get around to rewiring it then go from there.
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bozrae ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Jul 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 165 |
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They do seem like rugged tractors. I've been into the wiring on both of my 5050's and was able to get everything working again, but the manual doesn't have the greatest wiring diagram. At some point they changed to a different style alternator with a built in voltage regulator, but the diagram is not updated.
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D15D, D17G, 170G, 175D, and two 5050FWA
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Donkey376 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2018 Location: New York Points: 16 |
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There's no external regulator or fuse box on mine...just a complete disaster and I really have no idea where to start lol
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