190XT Injection Pump Fixed

I successfully removed my injection pump, had Ed rebuild the pump and then I reinstalled. I wanted to give a big thanks to Dr Allis, InjpumpEd, Lynn Marshall and this forum. Since I am a newbie to working on old tractors, I wanted to make a few points, in case some other new guy takes this on.

1) I followed Dr Allis instructions on removal. I am glad I scored the pump as he suggests. It didn't go in quite as easily as I thought but my marks gave me confidence I was correct. I had to remove both oil lines to get my pump off and on.

2) I used a small screwdriver to tuck the first rubber gasket around the pump shaft. I caught the edges the first few times I pushed. So far no diesel fuel in the oil.

3) My timing mark was extremely hard to see and I wasn't sure I was right before removal. Ed had me pull off the fuel line at the 3pm position going to cylinder number 1. I saw the hole was lined up so that meant I had it correctly timed. I also used the big screwdriver on the flywheel as suggested by Lynn to get the timing lined up. Requires two people but it was easy.

4) I had a real hard time getting that back fuel line reconnected. In fact I dropped one of the washers and this caused a leak the first time I installed. I used a ratchet wrench with a toggle head to get in the back and tighten it up successfully the last time with a mirror to insure I had both washers on there. There is very little room for your fingers so I put that back line on first so I had a little more room without the other fuel lines in the way.

5) Thank goodness I had Ed rebuild the pump because he sent me the correct washers. The previous owner did not use two washers but instead used only one. That's why the pump leaked, I guess.

6) I wrote in another thread earlier about fixing the fuel lines, but after describing the symptoms to Ed, it was clear that the pump was also the problem. The tractor would run fine for awhile, then die like it wasn't getting fuel. Of course, after setting, it would start again. At the end, it wouldn't shut off. I had to turn off the sediment bowl fuel valves to get the tractor to stop.

7) Ed said the pump was a mess when he took it apart. The tractor idles much better now too. I have owned it for 1 year and didn't know how it should have idled.

8) I noticed that one of my fuel lines was actually touching the exhaust manifold so I bent it about ¼ inch away from it on pump reinstallation.

9) I had a guy lined up to do this fix, if I got in over my head. He is nervous about working on Allis tractors since he only knows red and green tractors. He estimated it would cost $500 - $700 in labor to do the fix so I feel good about saving that money and couldn't have done it without the forum!

10) Ed didn't charge me for the telephone tech support either, but it was sure helpful. He also had it done in about 1 week. I am running a little over 2400 rpms now.

Hope this posts helps someone else new. The small details can be the devil.

Good to know of more success story's as a result of the forum.
I also need to send Ed my pump off our 200.
What was your other post with tare down descriptions

My other post related to cleaning/reinstalling sediment bowls, fuel tank and fuel lines. Before I assumed it was the pump, I wanted to check the dumb things. Turns out it wasn't so easy to fix sediment bowls but they were bad. The valve was not opening very far when compared to the new bowls I bought. Not sure if they got misadjusted over time or they were that way in the beginning. Of course, I found wood splinters and other unknown large objects lodged in the valve opening that were too large to pass through to the sediment bowl. If you are fixing the pump, I highly recommend that you de-install those sediment bowls and see what comes out. A lot of gunk had piled up over the years that could not get into the bowl. I also had to waste about 10 gallons of fuel to flush the crap out of the tank.

I used Dr. Allis instructions for removal of the pump. I posted those again yesterday on a D17 question although they aren't completely correct for a D17 as I now know it.

I am booked up until January but if you don't get it done by then, AND you have sufficient amounts of whiskey in your parts, I might just pay you a visit.   [:)]

I hadn't had much time to use the tractor since I reinstalled the injection pump until this weekend, but much to my dismay, I found diesel fuel in my oil. So, does anyone have any tricks on placing that first umbrella seal on the shaft and ensuring that it stays in place while shoving the pump on?

Here is what I did: I tucked the edges in all the way around the seal into the pump hole. I had placed some lubricant all around the seal edges and on the inside of the pump before doing this. I then kind of twisted it gently thinking that wouldn't cause it to flip inside out as I moved it forward. Everything seemed to be fine when I pushed it onto the mounting studs. There was no bind, but obviously something went wrong. Any hints would be greatly appreciated.

Capital Diesel in Holt Summit Mo sells the umbrella compresser tool for putting the pump on too, compresses evenly all around and slide it on , it works great , was 11.50 a few years ago

Ed, why don't you go ahead and mail out seal and loaner tools. I hope to tackle it on Friday of this week. I was pretty confident that I had it correctly setup since it slipped in so easily, but it wasn't. So, the tools may help me this time. Thanks Ed.

The tweezer tool worked well for my brother and I on both our 190XT’s. Take your time, and lube it as others have said.

Thanks so much. I take it that the fuel line washers are also a one-time use item? I didn't realize this.

Just an update on this. The tools that Ed sent helped me to successfully install the shaft seal. He sent the pinchers and he sent me a tube to slip the seal onto the shaft. I used wd40 and pushed the pump over the seal with the pincher holding the seal in place, and then backed it up a little and then pushed it home as Dr Allis suggests. I didn't get this done until this past week. I ran it for about 2 hours and did not find any fuel in the crankcase so I think it is fixed. I also wonder if it being much colder helped to keep that seal from rolling since it was much stiffer, versus when I did it in 70 degree weather. I will be sending Ed's tools back now. I hope this works because I am sick of installing and deinstalling the pump! I hate installing that fuel line on the back of the pump! My crankcase sure got cleaned by the diesel/oil mixture after I drained it.