internal engine coatings

Gyptal is used a lot but I could not find it for sale. I got this stuff from W W Grainger, same material, differant Mfg. About $6 a can.

I have used gyptal in crank cases before, good way to seal the pores and prevent leaks in crappy castings sometime out there. I bought it from an electrical shop, they use it to coat electrical motor windings.   I don't think I would install it in the water jacket however, as anything that can slow the heat transfer down can cause problems.  I have never seen it installed in a water jacket before?  Corrosion in the water jacket is caused by lack of proper maintenance.  If you change antifreeze regularly (it really dosen't wear out, just the corrosion inhibitors get used up) or add corrosion inhibitors as part of Preventive maintenance there should never be a problem.  Where I work we not only manufacture large diesel but do factory rebuilds at approximately 40-60000 hour intervals, and if you can tell which engines have the coolant maintained properly and which don't.  60000 hours and zero rust is common if they added corrosion inhibitors on schedule.  Since the engines all come from large mines you get to know and see the same guys work all the time and can identify where and engine was used by inspecting it and look up the history and 80 percent of the time can be right on where it came from.  

They coat the inside of engine and transmission cases to keep oil from seeping through. All cast iron is porous and will seep over time without this inside coat. I don't know what Allis used, if was just a primer or if it were something else. Don't know if water will seep through. Oil will.

We used a product called "Rust Master".  We had several gallons of the stuff but ran out a few years back.  Does anyone know if  the "Rust Master" brand is still available.
Have not Googled it yet.
It worked flawlessly.

Neighbour's D17 block came out of the hot tank with a yellow coating inside - what Lonn says makes sense.  There was nothing on my D14 block though - explains why the thing was covered in oil!

The name is gLyptal. Needs that L to be found. GC (General Cement) sells it in small quantities. Its an alkyd varnish that sticks very well. Out wears jeans its splashed on. Was originally made by GE. It gets tougher when baked.

Gerald J.

Dave(inMA) wrote: Interesting topic. I'm guessing that adding rust inhibitors wasn't part of the usual AC maintenance program for the early machines.......would an annual addition make sense for, say, the B/C and WC/WD/WD45 generations?

With green antifreeze it should either be replaced every TWO years, or have the inhibitor added.  Also the ph level should be tested with antifreeze test strips, as you don't want it acidic or caustic.  I do recommend draining and filtering the antifreeze to remove crap from it, especially in old engines.  Many auto shops now have recyclers, old antifreeze is poured into the recycler, its filtered and tested, any thing low, typically the rust inhibitors is added and it put back into the car.  

The gold long life antifreezes, or at least Caterpillars, requires adding a small additive bottle every 3 years (think they call it SCA) and replace it every 6.  I know caterpillar sell test strips to test the ph level, I sure others do to?

Make sure a low silicate antifreeze is used in diesel engines.