internal engine coatings
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15978
Printed Date: 05 Feb 2025 at 3:40am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: internal engine coatings
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Subject: internal engine coatings
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2010 at 9:21pm
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Now that I'm actually getting close to assembling my 262 project, I'm wondering what A-C used to coat the inside of the block. It looks like red oxide primer. My original block only had it in the crankcase, the replacement has it in the water jacket too. I'm sure the original had it in there too. Lack of proper cooling system maintenence probably removed it. I'm thinking anything to prevent rust is a good thing as the original block had a serious rust problem. Anybody else put anything inside their blocks before assembly? ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Replies:
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2010 at 9:28pm
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Gyptal is used a lot but I could not find it for sale. I got this stuff from W W Grainger, same material, differant Mfg. About $6 a can.  |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 31 Jul 2010 at 9:31pm
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That looks like it. Thanks Butch. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: firebrick43
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2010 at 12:11am
| I have used gyptal in crank cases before, good way to seal the pores and prevent leaks in crappy castings sometime out there. I bought it from an electrical shop, they use it to coat electrical motor windings. I don't think I would install it in the water jacket however, as anything that can slow the heat transfer down can cause problems. I have never seen it installed in a water jacket before? Corrosion in the water jacket is caused by lack of proper maintenance. If you change antifreeze regularly (it really dosen't wear out, just the corrosion inhibitors get used up) or add corrosion inhibitors as part of Preventive maintenance there should never be a problem. Where I work we not only manufacture large diesel but do factory rebuilds at approximately 40-60000 hour intervals, and if you can tell which engines have the coolant maintained properly and which don't. 60000 hours and zero rust is common if they added corrosion inhibitors on schedule. Since the engines all come from large mines you get to know and see the same guys work all the time and can identify where and engine was used by inspecting it and look up the history and 80 percent of the time can be right on where it came from. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2010 at 6:29am
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Interesting topic. I'm guessing that adding rust inhibitors wasn't part of the usual AC maintenance program for the early machines.......would an annual addition make sense for, say, the B/C and WC/WD/WD45 generations?
------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2010 at 6:29am
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They coat the inside of engine and transmission cases to keep oil from seeping through. All cast iron is porous and will seep over time without this inside coat. I don't know what Allis used, if was just a primer or if it were something else. Don't know if water will seep through. Oil will. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2010 at 6:49am
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Adding water pump lube (came in an AC can) WAS part of regular maintenance at my Dad's farm.....it had rust inhibitors in it and kept cooling systems clean. A radiator repair shop once told me how clean an AC radiator was one time beause it had been using the stuff....hard on hoses he said, but good for everything else. |
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2010 at 8:44am
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We used a product called "Rust Master". We had several gallons of the stuff but ran out a few years back. Does anyone know if the "Rust Master" brand is still available. Have not Googled it yet. It worked flawlessly. |
Posted By: Larry(OH)
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2010 at 9:22am
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Eastwood automotive sells that stuff Butch has. Don't remember a price ------------- '40 WC puller,'50 WD puller,'50 M puller '65 770 Ollie *ALLIS EXPRESS contact* I can explain it to you, BUT I cannot understand it for you!! |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2010 at 9:32am
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Neighbour's D17 block came out of the hot tank with a yellow coating inside - what Lonn says makes sense. There was nothing on my D14 block though - explains why the thing was covered in oil! |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2010 at 9:39am
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My replacement block came from a combine, and it looks like to me that the last owner must have been good about maintenance. I got to look inside the valve cover and it looked clean. They probably took a good, useable engine apart for the block. Brick has a point on not wanting to put anything in there to inhibit heat transfer. I figure it will be best to coat the inside of the block, A-C did when it was new, and leave the sleeves uncoated. The original coating survived the hot tanking process for the most part.
I was also going to add that no matter what engine you happen to have, taking proper care of the cooling system is a good thing. Around here I've pretty much always changed coolant every other year. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2010 at 9:59am
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The name is gLyptal. Needs that L to be found. GC (General Cement) sells it in small quantities. Its an alkyd varnish that sticks very well. Out wears jeans its splashed on. Was originally made by GE. It gets tougher when baked. Gerald J. |
Posted By: CJohnS MI
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2010 at 10:18am
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Every performance engine we ever turned out - whether a RR Merlin V12 for the boats, or the Pontiacs I ran on the street got painted on the inside - AFTER machining and BEFORE final assembly. The Merlins - we used the dark grey from the military, and the Pontiacs I used Rustoleum equipment enamel(the stuff that smelled like fish oil). It was done a lot - OEM and afterwards because: 1. Sealed cast iron porosity 2. Sealed in tiny metal particles not removed by washing, air nozzle 3. Oil flows along the painted surface better, exiting oil galleries faster 4. Prevents rust scale forming and dropping into oil pan/sump 5. It looked good "If it looks good - it IS good" - Dick Branstner John PS: Just remembered - in later years, used the yellow zinc chromate primer - looked Bad ashed - Victoria's Secret for engine undies. |
Posted By: firebrick43
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2010 at 1:11pm
With green antifreeze it should either be replaced every TWO years, or have the inhibitor added. Also the ph level should be tested with antifreeze test strips, as you don't want it acidic or caustic. I do recommend draining and filtering the antifreeze to remove crap from it, especially in old engines. Many auto shops now have recyclers, old antifreeze is poured into the recycler, its filtered and tested, any thing low, typically the rust inhibitors is added and it put back into the car. The gold long life antifreezes, or at least Caterpillars, requires adding a small additive bottle every 3 years (think they call it SCA) and replace it every 6. I know caterpillar sell test strips to test the ph level, I sure others do to? Make sure a low silicate antifreeze is used in diesel engines. |
Dave(inMA) wrote: