185 Injection Pump Removal

Pretty much as you expect, just remember to remove timing window (small rectangular cover with 2 screws on the side) and turn the engine by hand until the mark comes into window and lines up with the stationary mark. Then proceed to disconnect linkages and lines, and slide it back off of the driveshaft, leaving the driveshaft with the engine. Good luck!

210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!

OK, so the shaft in the pump stays on the gear which stays with the engine. That sounds better than having to get in and take the gear off at the front. So, I guess there is enough room to slide the pump housing off without having to remove much anything else from the tractor? I appreciate the help very much.

when you disconnect the throttle wire it wide open or the gov. weights can fall off causing a run away when you put it back together. learned from experience!

There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!

of course they will. i made the mistake when removing a 190xt pump to replace seals. just wanting to warn anyone who has never done it

There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!

the return fitting/line is likely plugged up with broken flex ring material, causing the housing pressure to rise. this usually causes engine to slowly lose power and die. Sometimes they just push fuel past the drive seal.

210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!

I have been reading the great instructions then noticed the Bosch pump; mine's a Standyne. How much different are instructions for pump removal?

Ok I just jumped over from casycreek link he put in the bottom off the 190xt injection pump post. Anyway is this the directions I should take with taking pump off 200.
I was also thinking while doing this have Ed go through injectors.

I have taken the front access cover off for the inj pump drive gear, and that will allow the shaft and gear to slide forward some giving a little more clearance to get the pump off the shaft far enough to get it out of there. The oil cooler on an XT/200 definitely makes it more cramped in that area.

210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!

DrAllis wrote:

Step #1. Remove all six exhaust manifold bolts (using a 6 pt socket) and lift the manifold up and tip the muffler so the manifold will sit on top of the injectors or valve cover. Step #2. Disconnect all injector lines at each injector. Also disconnect throttle and shut off linkages. Remove the fuel inlet and return lines from the injection pump. You might also remove the fuel filter and it's base for more room. Step #3. Scratch/scribe a line on the injection pump mounting flange and engine plate. This insures that if you line up these two marks you are in time like it was before. Step #4. Remove the side cover and drain fuel from the pump. Step #5. Remove the two 3/8" NF nuts and flat washers from the pump mounting flange and pull the pump backwards with all the injection lines still on the pump. Repeat procedure to install making note of where the "dot" is on the pump driveshaft and the inner socket inside the pump......"dot" to "dot" and line up your scratch mark and you are in time. Leave all injector line banjo bolts just snug when you reassemble until you have them installed on each injector, then tighten the banjo bolts.

So does the dot to dot ensure timing with the engine? Is there a need to turn the engine to a particular degree of timing like say on a 3500 engine?

1937 M Crawler, 1963 D21, 1964 D21, 1965 D12 SIII, 1970 220, 1976 185

The 185 pump was the worst job removing an injection pump I've been around,big job just to tighten the fan belt.What was AC thinking? Taking the inj pump off my Long with the

354 Perkins 30 minute job at most and just drop it back in and bolt up can't get the timing wrong.

We just put a seal kit in a 185 - our tech ( we have used the method Doc outlined for decades) pulled the unit in the bay and in less than 30 minutes had the pump in the vice stand. The most time of resealing is putting that elastocast synthetic rubber washer on the goveror weight plate, not a job for one with arthritic fingers. Then took about an hour to install, wash and dyno check. Double to triple that time for a 2900.

When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..

tbran wrote:

what long do you have that has a 354 6 cyl perkins ?

R9500 special.

tbran wrote:

before our time as a Long dealer - was R9500 this not a Landini ? Did Landini build a like model that Long branded and sold - I would hope so for parts sake...

The rear is Landini and the bell housing forward its basically a MF 1100.MF owned Landini

at the time it was built according to what I know about it.Bought it cheap at an auction

but everything works pretty good on it, basically use it to pull a 10ft brush hog so not much strain on it.12 forward 4 reverses,drives good.

welcome to the forum. I would start a new topic in the construction section or even farm equipment section

Hey @Marshall,

Just curious how you made out reassembling your injection pump? No more diesel in the crankcase I am assuming? Any tips for assembly to make life easier?

Billy

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