185 Injection Pump Removal
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=56731
Printed Date: 10 Jan 2025 at 4:53am
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Topic: 185 Injection Pump Removal
Posted By: Marshall
Subject: 185 Injection Pump Removal
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2012 at 7:30am
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How difficult is it to remove an fuel injection pump on a 185? From the outside looking in, it appears that other than the fuel lines and two bolts that it should easily slide off. However, my experience with this tractor is that everything that you would think would be easy turns out to be a tare down of a project (ex. Oil pan gasket, Brake job). Before I jump into it, I wanted to get on here and get any information I could before I dig in.
In my parts manual I see a big gear with a nut on the end of the pump shaft. That alone tells me that this may be a big project.
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Replies:
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2012 at 8:28am
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Pretty much as you expect, just remember to remove timing window (small rectangular cover with 2 screws on the side) and turn the engine by hand until the mark comes into window and lines up with the stationary mark. Then proceed to disconnect linkages and lines, and slide it back off of the driveshaft, leaving the driveshaft with the engine. Good luck! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: DanD
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2012 at 8:36am
| The hardest parts of the install are getting the bolt started for the injection line on the back side of the pump, and then getting the first seal into the pump without having the lip fold back. |
Posted By: Marshall
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2012 at 8:54am
| OK, so the shaft in the pump stays on the gear which stays with the engine. That sounds better than having to get in and take the gear off at the front. So, I guess there is enough room to slide the pump housing off without having to remove much anything else from the tractor? I appreciate the help very much. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2012 at 9:36am
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Step #1. Remove all six exhaust manifold bolts (using a 6 pt socket) and lift the manifold up and tip the muffler so the manifold will sit on top of the injectors or valve cover. Step #2. Disconnect all injector lines at each injector. Also disconnect throttle and shut off linkages. Remove the fuel inlet and return lines from the injection pump. You might also remove the fuel filter and it's base for more room. Step #3. Scratch/scribe a line on the injection pump mounting flange and engine plate. This insures that if you line up these two marks you are in time like it was before. Step #4. Remove the side cover and drain fuel from the pump. Step #5. Remove the two 3/8" NF nuts and flat washers from the pump mounting flange and pull the pump backwards with all the injection lines still on the pump. Repeat procedure to install making note of where the "dot" is on the pump driveshaft and the inner socket inside the pump......"dot" to "dot" and line up your scratch mark and you are in time. Leave all injector line banjo bolts just snug when you reassemble until you have them installed on each injector, then tighten the banjo bolts. |
Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2012 at 9:51pm
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when you disconnect the throttle wire it wide open or the gov. weights can fall off causing a run away when you put it back together. learned from experience! ------------- There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!! |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2012 at 10:01pm
| When the pump shop goes thru the pump it will be wired that way. |
Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2012 at 10:25pm
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of course they will. i made the mistake when removing a 190xt pump to replace seals. just wanting to warn anyone who has never done it ------------- There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!! |
Posted By: Marshall
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2012 at 12:10pm
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Thanks for all the help guys. I have included some pics of last nights Allis surgery. I think I have done things in correct order. Feel free to use the pics for the next guy with the same question as I had.
Step 1. Exhaust Manifold and Injectors loose and moved. It sure seems like a lot of wrench turning on the injectors.
 Step 2: Throttle Linkages, Fuel Lines, and Fuel Filter and bracket removed or loose.
 Step: 3 Scribed Pump Base and Engine Mounting Bracket for future alignment.
 Step 4: Pump Timing Marks lined up in pump window.
 Step 5: Removed Pump and Lines in one action.
 Step 6: Evidence of seal wear. Could explain why diesel got to my oil sump pan?
 Step 7: Pump is out and is ready to be rebuilt.
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2012 at 12:13pm
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the return fitting/line is likely plugged up with broken flex ring material, causing the housing pressure to rise. this usually causes engine to slowly lose power and die. Sometimes they just push fuel past the drive seal. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2012 at 12:15pm
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Wow, just noticed in pics that this is a very late 185 with bar stock American Bosch injectors. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: rosco2
Date Posted: 12 May 2016 at 10:02pm
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I have been reading the great instructions then noticed the Bosch pump; mine's a Standyne. How much different are instructions for pump removal? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 May 2016 at 10:04pm
| Roosa-Master Company became Stanadyne Company many years ago. The pump is a "DB" series pump and are all pretty much the same on a 180-185 tractor. |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 7:05pm
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Ok I just jumped over from casycreek link he put in the bottom off the 190xt injection pump post. Anyway is this the directions I should take with taking pump off 200. I was also thinking while doing this have Ed go through injectors. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2017 at 7:11am
| No. If you looked at your 200 engine, it has an engine oil cooler on it making this method of repair different than a 180/185. Timing the pump remains the same. Removal and re-installation is more difficult. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2017 at 7:37am
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I have taken the front access cover off for the inj pump drive gear, and that will allow the shaft and gear to slide forward some giving a little more clearance to get the pump off the shaft far enough to get it out of there. The oil cooler on an XT/200 definitely makes it more cramped in that area. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2017 at 8:22am
| Oh yes thought it looked a little different |
Posted By: PDehring
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2021 at 8:55am
So does the dot to dot ensure timing with the engine? Is there a need to turn the engine to a particular degree of timing like say on a 3500 engine? ------------- 1937 M Crawler, 1963 D21, 1964 D21, 1965 D12 SIII, 1970 220, 1976 185 |
DrAllis wrote:Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2021 at 11:40am
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Dot to dot is only as reliable as the previous guy that worked on it lol!The DC like on a D21/210/220 uses a tiny tang on the side of a pin to locate timing. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2021 at 5:56am
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The 185 pump was the worst job removing an injection pump I've been around,big job just to tighten the fan belt.What was AC thinking? Taking the inj pump off my Long with the 354 Perkins 30 minute job at most and just drop it back in and bolt up can't get the timing wrong.
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2021 at 7:49am
| If taking inj. pump off a 185 is a big job, you haven't done much mechanical work. MACk |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2021 at 8:50am
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We just put a seal kit in a 185 - our tech ( we have used the method Doc outlined for decades) pulled the unit in the bay and in less than 30 minutes had the pump in the vice stand. The most time of resealing is putting that elastocast synthetic rubber washer on the goveror weight plate, not a job for one with arthritic fingers. Then took about an hour to install, wash and dyno check. Double to triple that time for a 2900. ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2021 at 8:52am
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what long do you have that has a 354 6 cyl perkins ? ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2021 at 8:54am
R9500 special.
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Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2021 at 8:28pm
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before our time as a Long dealer - was R9500 this not a Landini ? Did Landini build a like model that Long branded and sold - I would hope so for parts sake... ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2021 at 8:47pm
The rear is Landini and the bell housing forward its basically a MF 1100.MF owned Landini at the time it was built according to what I know about it.Bought it cheap at an auction but everything works pretty good on it, basically use it to pull a 10ft brush hog so not much strain on it.12 forward 4 reverses,drives good.
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Posted By: GWhite
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2021 at 7:58pm
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I have a 615 backhoe that I need to have the injector pump rebuilt. My issue is the timing marks. I have no access to the front other than complete removal of the radiator shroud meaning unbolting the bucket arms, removal of the radiator to get anywhere close to turning the engine over by hand. I've tried to get the marks to align by bumping the starter but it will not stop on TDC. If I could access the flywheel does anyone feel I have any chance prying that around to get the timing right? |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2021 at 8:11pm
| welcome to the forum. I would start a new topic in the construction section or even farm equipment section |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2021 at 6:40am
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I had Ed rebuild my pump a few years ago on my XT, wasn’t a difficult job removing or reinstalling. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Bodnarboy
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2021 at 10:23am
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Hey @Marshall, Just curious how you made out reassembling your injection pump? No more diesel in the crankcase I am assuming? Any tips for assembly to make life easier? Billy
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