WD45 cam brgs

Do cam brgs need honed to fit after installation or are they considered precision these days?Thirty yrs ago it seems I remember people saying new cam brgs needed honed.I don't remember what applications did or didn't need it.I gotta pull the crank out of my 45 and I wondered about putting cam brgs in it while there.It was overhauled 30yrs ago and didn't get them then.Oil guage runs on "N" of normal and I've heard guys on here say loose cam brgs on WD's and 45's will cut oil pressure.I've also heard that there is a difference in those guages and all I remember is we put a new one on when it was overhauled.I suspect I could have some rods flaking because I've found babbit in the drain plug over the years.It got alot of heavy use/abuse the first15yrs but now sees planter and bush hog duty.I think the guage used to read higher but never paid that much attention.Get on and go!

Reason the crank needs attention is pulley has ran loose a long time and necked the crank and wollowed the pulley.Going to have machine shop true crank nose and bore/sleeve pulley to fit.

 

 

Edited by Steve M C/IL - 10 Jul 2010 at 12:09am

That sounds encourageing Charlie.Where'd you get you brgs from.

My opinion is anytime something has a interference fit meaning the id of the hole is smaller than the od of the bearing it needs to be honed for it could be distorted.

I recently ordered cam bearings for my D17D from Sandy Lake Imp and Betty told me they have had issues with some aftermarket suppliers of cam bearings fitting the block, but then not fitting the cam without honing. I would call Sandy Lake and have them get them for you. Betty seemed to know which ones to get that would be ready to go once installed.

I gotta go with Mitch on this one, I sure wouldn't go to all that time and expense and cut a corner like that. It might work.......but then again

Steve M C/IL wrote: I can't decide if Mitch is serious in light of his previous post and I don't quite get my friend Lou's advise on corner cutting.I've been married 30 yrs and tell my wife to just say what she means.I can't read between the lines anymore.My problem,I know,but that's how it is.

What I am saying is I certainly would not have the motor that far apart and investing in new parts w/o having the job done correctly. main and rod bearings you can easily check yourself (and certainly should be when installing new), but checking cam bearings is a little more problematic, so I would have the cam bearing at least checked by a good machinist, if not bored, to protect my investment.

I have only done three tractor motors, a JD, Ford 8N, and am doing a D 15 II allis now.  The ford did not have cam bushings.  My thoughts on a tractor is that if the cam slides in the new bushings and you can give her a spin and there is no drag then why line bore?  I know there are pie in the sky answere, but I can't see tsking off some bushing and making the hole bigger when you can let mother nature work it down some and get some mileage out of doing it that way.

I have a cam bearing tool to remove and install bearing. Like Charlie I have rebuild lots of WD's and have found all kinds of shims under the relief spring on them, Thinks like washers, nuts, and one time I found a rock in there all because the engine needed cam bearing replaced.

Thanks Charlie I now have a pic in my head of someone with a 8 lb hammer and a big poor word choice punch beating the heck out of cam bearings now! LMAO

Steve, they may have been shimmed but mine had 3 lock washers jammed in it. I didn't consider them as shims.