WD45 cam brgs
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14972
Printed Date: 03 Feb 2025 at 10:40pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WD45 cam brgs
Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Subject: WD45 cam brgs
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 12:08am
Do cam brgs need honed to fit after installation or are they considered precision these days?Thirty yrs ago it seems I remember people saying new cam brgs needed honed.I don't remember what applications did or didn't need it.I gotta pull the crank out of my 45 and I wondered about putting cam brgs in it while there.It was overhauled 30yrs ago and didn't get them then.Oil guage runs on "N" of normal and I've heard guys on here say loose cam brgs on WD's and 45's will cut oil pressure.I've also heard that there is a difference in those guages and all I remember is we put a new one on when it was overhauled.I suspect I could have some rods flaking because I've found babbit in the drain plug over the years.It got alot of heavy use/abuse the first15yrs but now sees planter and bush hog duty.I think the guage used to read higher but never paid that much attention.Get on and go!
Reason the crank needs attention is pulley has ran loose a long time and necked the crank and wollowed the pulley.Going to have machine shop true crank nose and bore/sleeve pulley to fit.
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Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 12:21am
I put new ones in my WC and didn't have to do anything to them.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 10:24am
That sounds encourageing Charlie.Where'd you get you brgs from.
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Posted By: ORANGE FARM
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 10:52am
IF YOU GOT AFTER MARKET ONE.THEY DON'T WORK.
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Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 11:08am
My opinion is anytime something has a interference fit meaning the id of the hole is smaller than the od of the bearing it needs to be honed for it could be distorted.
------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra
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Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 1:20pm
The problem is the engine will only be partially dissasembled hanging on an engine stand at my place and I have no means of honing cam brgs.Not as simple as hauling a bare block to someone to hone. For some homemade,jury rigged way of increasing clearance,I might,as well leave well enough alone.Could end up with looser fit than before.
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 1:33pm
I recently ordered cam bearings for my D17D from Sandy Lake Imp and Betty told me they have had issues with some aftermarket suppliers of cam bearings fitting the block, but then not fitting the cam without honing. I would call Sandy Lake and have them get them for you. Betty seemed to know which ones to get that would be ready to go once installed.
------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 1:41pm
dont worry if the cams bearing journal will go into the bearings id . either the cam journal or bearing will hone itself to match the shape of the other. hopefuly the oil filter will catch the metal pieces.
------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra
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Posted By: LouSWPA
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 2:28pm
I gotta go with Mitch on this one, I sure wouldn't go to all that time and expense and cut a corner like that. It might work.......but then again
------------- I am still confident of this; I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living. Wait for the Lord; be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 11:00pm
I can't decide if Mitch is serious in light of his previous post and I don't quite get my friend Lou's advise on corner cutting.I've been married 30 yrs and tell my wife to just say what she means.I can't read between the lines anymore.My problem,I know,but that's how it is.
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Posted By: LouSWPA
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 11:57pm
Steve M C/IL wrote:
I can't decide if Mitch is serious in light of his previous post and I don't quite get my friend Lou's advise on corner cutting.I've been married 30 yrs and tell my wife to just say what she means.I can't read between the lines anymore.My problem,I know,but that's how it is. |
What I am saying is I certainly would not have the motor that far apart and investing in new parts w/o having the job done correctly. main and rod bearings you can easily check yourself (and certainly should be when installing new), but checking cam bearings is a little more problematic, so I would have the cam bearing at least checked by a good machinist, if not bored, to protect my investment.
------------- I am still confident of this; I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living. Wait for the Lord; be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2010 at 7:24am
I agree with Lou now would bethe time to do complete bottom end specially scince you know history cam bushings are only about $30 or so.
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Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2010 at 7:31am
I have only done three tractor motors, a JD, Ford 8N, and am doing a D 15 II allis now. The ford did not have cam bushings. My thoughts on a tractor is that if the cam slides in the new bushings and you can give her a spin and there is no drag then why line bore? I know there are pie in the sky answere, but I can't see tsking off some bushing and making the hole bigger when you can let mother nature work it down some and get some mileage out of doing it that way.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2010 at 7:41am
Steve, My bearings came in a Tisco engine kit. I have been a machinist since the early 70's so I think I know what will work. I used the proper tool to install the bearings and the cam fit like a glove. If I remember right, you have to line up the oil hole in the block with the new bearing.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2010 at 8:44am
I have a cam bearing tool to remove and install bearing. Like Charlie I have rebuild lots of WD's and have found all kinds of shims under the relief spring on them, Thinks like washers, nuts, and one time I found a rock in there all because the engine needed cam bearing replaced.
Don
------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2010 at 8:50am
I forgot about the relief spring Don. I pulled a stack of washers out of mine. It has god oil pressure now without shimming the relief spring. I don't know what is after market,but if you take a hammer and a punch to the cam bearings they won't work.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2010 at 8:59am
Thanks Charlie I now have a pic in my head of someone with a 8 lb hammer and a big poor word choice punch beating the heck out of cam bearings now! LMAO
Don
------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2010 at 9:30am
I'm starting to catch on,sorta.I was figuring on the squeeze methed VS the BFH. I can make a tool to do that but I think my cousin(former AC mechanic) already has one.Are you guys saying there is supposed to be ONLY the spring in the relief? No shims?Haven't even looked at that yet.I&T manuals suck.I have the WD section from local dealer service manual from the 50's which is more helpful.My dad knew all this from memory/experience but he's been gone since 2000.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2010 at 9:33am
Steve, they may have been shimmed but mine had 3 lock washers jammed in it. I didn't consider them as shims.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2010 at 9:34pm
i dont know where you people are HONING a babbit metal bearing,first of all you will never ever get all the grit out of the bearing surface.why not do the job RIGHT with the aid of a micrometer and the properly adjusted reamer?a compitent machine shop can do this and it will not cost you an arm and a leg.i have overhauled several 45 gas and diesel engines and did everyone that way.i am glad i am not flying some of those repairs...
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