No brakes

I don't have any brakes, in fact it seems like the pedals don't even move. We are moving to our land next week and then I can devote some time to our tractor's issues; brakes, rear PTO, cutting deck not turning, and some electrical. It looks to be pretty involved getting into the brakes, and I see new linings for sale, but I've never had to rivet linings on before. Is it necessary to have a special tool? Can pop-rivets be used?

Oh sorry, I have a 616

Rick Corder on this site does brake and clutch work for a living. Get with him and he can set you up.
AaronSEIA

Parts for 620/720 are availible. The brake pads and disc asembly is located in the drop housing. The brakes operate very similar to my 190xtd. The brake pads squeeze the disc actuator causing three steel balls(4 in my xtd) to roll up a ramp, forcing the actuators outward against middle disc assemby and to the outward shim plate. That's your breaking force, not the brake pads them selves. The main reason for brake failure is the balls get rusted along with the ramps that they roll on. Pads and disc usually are in good shape unless of course you use the brake a lot. Lets face it, with hydro, brakes get used very little. So, here is my 2 cents. Remove the rear wheel, the drop housing from one side at a time. 4 bolts i believe. The whole drop housing comes off. You will see the outer disc or shim plate as its called, brake actuator assembly in the rear differential housing after you slide the shim plate off. Most likely lots of dirt and grime. Pull the actuator out and take pictures so you know how to put it back together. Disassemble the actuator on the bench. Carefully remove the srings, inspect the balls and raceway they ride on. if they are flat spotted, they have to be replaced. Inspect the raceway. 90% of the time a good cleaning of all parts is all that's needed. I take a small rotary tool with a firm brush and clean the raceway and steel balls to get them nice and shiny again. If there is lots off greese or oil, the inner seal is leaking and it should be replaced at this time. It should be dry in there. Place the balls on the raceway and test for easy movement. Now, I put a small amount of antiseize on the ramps and roll the balls around. Test the actuator with balls in place and twist the the 2 parts. This can only be done in the palms of your hand with no springs attached. The balls should roll up the ramps and force the actuator apart. If it works correctly, reassemble the actuator, and reassemble the drop housing. You can test the brake before you put the wheel on by having an assistant to push the brake and try to turn the hub. Then, do the same for the other side. About 1.5 hrs each side.

i meant by removing the drop housing, not in the actual drop housing. sorry guys.