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No brakes

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Garden Tractors
Forum Description: A great place to discuss the Simplicity and Allis Chalmers Garden Models
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=131350
Printed Date: 19 Nov 2024 at 4:08pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: No brakes
Posted By: bamaboy
Subject: No brakes
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2016 at 2:54am
I don't have any brakes, in fact it seems like the pedals don't even move. We are moving to our land next week and then I can devote some time to our tractor's issues; brakes, rear PTO, cutting deck not turning, and some electrical. It looks to be pretty involved getting into the brakes, and I see new linings for sale, but I've never had to rivet linings on before. Is it necessary to have a special tool? Can pop-rivets be used?



Replies:
Posted By: talntedmrgreen
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2016 at 9:49am
What sort of machine are we talking about?

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Patterson B1*B1/B1Forklift*B10*BigTen/B1Loader*B110*B208*B206*616*Homelite T16H/T8/T7/RM7E*Landlord/Loader/Trencher*Broadmoor717*Serf525*2110*7790*Legacy XL*Twin 20*Squire9*Squire6*JCPenny 494


Posted By: bamaboy
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2016 at 8:04pm
Oh sorry, I have a 616


Posted By: Bird76Mojo
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 2:32am
I've never seen new brake parts available for the Powermax line of tractors. I have the same problem as you do, on my 720.

GB :)


Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 5:14am
Rick Corder on this site does brake and clutch work for a living. Get with him and he can set you up.
AaronSEIA


Posted By: farmtoybuilder
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2016 at 10:30am
Brakes hardly got used on most of them. They could have a glaze on them. Which can be taken off using a wire wheel on grinder or even rough sand paper. If they are worn out you should be able to get relined from Rick or Local clutch-brake shop.


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5 different TT-10's,5 TT-18's Terra Tigers,B-10,2 B-207's,B-110,2 B-112's,HB-112,B-210,B-212,HB212,2 Scamp's & Homilite T-10. Still hunting NICE HB-112 & anything Terra Tiger & Trailers for them.   


Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2016 at 7:43pm
Parts for 620/720 are availible. The brake pads and disc asembly is located in the drop housing. The brakes operate very similar to my 190xtd. The brake pads squeeze the disc actuator causing three steel balls(4 in my xtd) to roll up a ramp, forcing the actuators outward against middle disc assemby and to the outward shim plate. That's your breaking force, not the brake pads them selves. The main reason for brake failure is the balls get rusted along with the ramps that they roll on. Pads and disc usually are in good shape unless of course you use the brake a lot. Lets face it, with hydro, brakes get used very little. So, here is my 2 cents. Remove the rear wheel, the drop housing from one side at a time. 4 bolts i believe. The whole drop housing comes off. You will see the outer disc or shim plate as its called, brake actuator assembly in the rear differential housing after you slide the shim plate off. Most likely lots of dirt and grime. Pull the actuator out and take pictures so you know how to put it back together. Disassemble the actuator on the bench. Carefully remove the srings, inspect the balls and raceway they ride on. if they are flat spotted, they have to be replaced. Inspect the raceway. 90% of the time a good cleaning of all parts is all that's needed. I take a small rotary tool with a firm brush and clean the raceway and steel balls to get them nice and shiny again. If there is lots off greese or oil, the inner seal is leaking and it should be replaced at this time. It should be dry in there. Place the balls on the raceway and test for easy movement. Now, I put a small amount of antiseize on the ramps and roll the balls around. Test the actuator with balls in place and twist the the 2 parts. This can only be done in the palms of your hand with no springs attached. The balls should roll up the ramps and force the actuator apart. If it works correctly, reassemble the actuator, and reassemble the drop housing. You can test the brake before you put the wheel on by having an assistant to push the brake and try to turn the hub. Then, do the same for the other side. About 1.5 hrs each side.

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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD


Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2016 at 7:49pm
I would post pictures but I don't know how to do that.

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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD


Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2016 at 7:50pm
i meant by removing the drop housing, not in the actual drop housing. sorry guys.

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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD


Posted By: bamaboy
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2016 at 7:07am
Thanks, I will get to that soon, very good info. The only time I've missed them is when I'm trying to raise the hitch-ball into a trailer.



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