Allis 8070 running warm

My 8070 runs about 200-205 running in the field. What is the normal operating temps of these tractors Our 7000 series tractors dont run this warm. I didnt know if the timing might be off because we have had problems with it not wanting to start right up when we have been using it but it starts good when cold.  Too add I have put a new radiator, waterpump and thermostats in it. Just thought it might be timing.

Many times the gauge or sender is inaccurate. A good test would be run engine full throttle in park for 15 or 20 minutes and see what the gauge actually says(it should read 180 which on the white line...210 is straight up). Under load I'd like to think the temps wouldn't raise more than 10 degrees from that point if everything is right. Head gaskets and cylinder heads last longer at 180 than at 210 and I'm sure someone will come on here and argue that fact.

clean all things in front of radiator oil cooler ac condensor and whatever else. Didn't someone else on here just have the same problem with an 8050 or 70?

The foam is good around the radiator. I put a aftermarket mechanical gauge in it for the mistrust of the factory gauge. Have a 7060 where the factory gauge was off and learned to have a backup. Fan should is perfect. My main question is what is running temp on the 80 series and if they are warmed up and shut off and wont start very well can the timing be off . thanks for all the input

I will try that .I just needed some suggestions of where to start looking for the problem. thanks.

my 8050 started hard cold andhot and finally wouldnt, bad head in the pump, but it would not run hot.

intravance in the pump could be bad also, not advancing the timing correctly with speed. I am guessing this problem was the reason for the cooling system overhaul in the first place? Or did the heating issue come on after water pump replacement? I've seen bad, or mis-assembled water pumps. good luck, Ed.

This spring I had a fire in my 8050 from a birds nest over the manifold by the time I realized what was happening and got the panel off the fire was just about out. When I took the right side panel of a piece of foam came off with it. Doing field work since this s tractor will over heat more than normal  I think the foam panel go toasted I need a part # for it. 

My 210 ran warm when I got it when it was being worked.  It would get up close to 220 on the gauge on hot summer days.  The rad split when I was planting corn one year so I recored it.  Made no difference, tried thermostat, new fan belts checked the timing, just couldn't seem to cool it off.  Dynoed it and it had 108 horsepower.  One day the water pump started leaking and I took it off to rebuild it and the impeller was easily more than an 8th of an inch too far away from where it was supposed to be (I think it is like .018")  I rebuilt  it to the specs in the rebuild kit and now it runs only about 200 when you are really working it.  I also rebuilt the pump as well as the engine and it dynoed at 139hp, still won't go to 220.