Allis 8070 running warm
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13849
Printed Date: 02 Feb 2025 at 5:59am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Allis 8070 running warm
Posted By: babs8070
Subject: Allis 8070 running warm
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2010 at 8:16am
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My 8070 runs about 200-205 running in the field. What is the normal operating temps of these tractors Our 7000 series tractors dont run this warm. I didnt know if the timing might be off because we have had problems with it not wanting to start right up when we have been using it but it starts good when cold. Too add I have put a new radiator, waterpump and thermostats in it. Just thought it might be timing.
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Replies:
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2010 at 6:17pm
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Is the foam on the hoods good around the radiator?
Don
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2010 at 6:42pm
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Many times the gauge or sender is inaccurate. A good test would be run engine full throttle in park for 15 or 20 minutes and see what the gauge actually says(it should read 180 which on the white line...210 is straight up). Under load I'd like to think the temps wouldn't raise more than 10 degrees from that point if everything is right. Head gaskets and cylinder heads last longer at 180 than at 210 and I'm sure someone will come on here and argue that fact.
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Posted By: jeffnil
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2010 at 6:42pm
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2nd the foam. very important
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Posted By: DanWi
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2010 at 10:21pm
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clean all things in front of radiator oil cooler ac condensor and whatever else. Didn't someone else on here just have the same problem with an 8050 or 70?
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Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2010 at 10:40pm
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I had similar problems with my 7060 a couple weeks ago, but If hes replaced the radiator,water pump,and thermostat it wouldnt be the same. Is the fan shroud in good shape?
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Posted By: babs8070
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2010 at 11:25pm
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The foam is good around the radiator. I put a aftermarket mechanical gauge in it for the mistrust of the factory gauge. Have a 7060 where the factory gauge was off and learned to have a backup. Fan should is perfect. My main question is what is running temp on the 80 series and if they are warmed up and shut off and wont start very well can the timing be off . thanks for all the input
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Posted By: Wes (VA)
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2010 at 11:33pm
Seems like I remember somebody having a hard starting problem while hot, and it was in the head of the inj. pump. After you've run it, before you start it up again...put some cool water on the pump, then if it starts easier..its in the pump. Or, from what THEY say at least. Haven't had it happen to us yet. -Wes
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Posted By: babs8070
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 12:00am
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I will try that .I just needed some suggestions of where to start looking for the problem. thanks.
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 6:14am
Whatever you do don't put cool water on the pump when it is running. Bad things can happen. My cousin's 8050 wasn't starting very good when warm and it was the pump.
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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I am a Russian Bot
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Posted By: randy
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 8:46am
my 8050 started hard cold andhot and finally wouldnt, bad head in the pump, but it would not run hot.
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CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070
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Posted By: ryan(IN)
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 11:52am
Get your pump rebuilt. same thing happened to our 7060.
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ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 2:49pm
intravance in the pump could be bad also, not advancing the timing correctly with speed. I am guessing this problem was the reason for the cooling system overhaul in the first place? Or did the heating issue come on after water pump replacement? I've seen bad, or mis-assembled water pumps. good luck, Ed.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 3:51pm
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When my 7060 was running hot at about 200 degrees it wouldn't idle good until it cooled off a little, and wouldn't start very good after shutting it off hot. I had to give it a shot of the ether button and it would take right off. Now its running about 185 degrees and it starts and idles fine. You have already eliminated alot of possibilities. I guess it wouldn't be getting airlocked at the thermostat since it doesnt keep climbing, Ive heard of pickups doing that and you drill a 1/8" hole in the stat.
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Posted By: wheatbreeder
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 7:18pm
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This spring I had a fire in my 8050 from a birds nest over the manifold by the time I realized what was happening and got the panel off the fire was just about out. When I took the right side panel of a piece of foam came off with it. Doing field work since this s tractor will over heat more than normal I think the foam panel go toasted I need a part # for it.
Morley
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Farm stuff 8050,6690,175,F2,5050,WD
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Posted By: babs8070
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2010 at 7:09am
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Replaced the waterpump to try and cool it. Didnt work. I had a rebuilt pump put on about a 1000hrs ago so I didnt think it was the problem at the time but I am leaning towards it now. I think I will jerk it off and see if it is the problem.
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Posted By: Amos
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2010 at 7:37am
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My 210 ran warm when I got it when it was being worked. It would get up close to 220 on the gauge on hot summer days. The rad split when I was planting corn one year so I recored it. Made no difference, tried thermostat, new fan belts checked the timing, just couldn't seem to cool it off. Dynoed it and it had 108 horsepower. One day the water pump started leaking and I took it off to rebuild it and the impeller was easily more than an 8th of an inch too far away from where it was supposed to be (I think it is like .018") I rebuilt it to the specs in the rebuild kit and now it runs only about 200 when you are really working it. I also rebuilt the pump as well as the engine and it dynoed at 139hp, still won't go to 220.
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Posted By: DonDittmar
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2010 at 7:56am
I have see on CAT 3406E truck engines the pump shaft willl break. When you are running light loaded the broken shaft will spin the impeller enough to cool the engine. Load heavy and the shaft wont spin the impeller enough to keep the engine cool. Changed alot of pump beacuse of that.
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Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"
1968 D15D,1962 D19D
Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start
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