Loading/Hauling tractors?

Folks,

Maybe this thread should be in construction or equip section?

Just thought I would post some pictures of truck/trailer and tractors and get some suggestions as to how others load and or haul there toys. Pretty much as usual a open discussion on the things that work well for you, and things to watch out for. I haven't hauled much and this is a good place to learn form folks that may haul every day. I know we may get into the regulations that could be different from state to state to?

So here is the F250 (gas) 5.4L with the 8K car hauler and Jacks WD (just setting on it as a loading test)








Ok Dad's narrow front end WD, same loading/ center ramp test. Do you load them facing forward or backward? Weight location on trailer/truck?








I did buy two of the ratchet type binders. I think I might have to get two more? One for each corner. Have the chains I believe will work, although one is lighter that the other.
Also at this time I don't have 4 chains, one for each corner. Was going to go through a clevis at the draw bar.

Regards,
 Chris

I use a 7k car trailer. I just drive it on facing foward till the rear tires are between the axles. Chain the front to each corner and ratchet strap the drawbar to each corner. My trailer has fender high rails down the complete length and sits very low. I haul the CA with a l306 to the church weekly during the mowing season and don't use any ramps. My trailer is low enough I just back up to the parking lot edge and drive off and back on again when I'm done. I don't have any pictures of it loaded.

4 point tie-down. I typically use ratchet straps.

allisguy.11 wrote: I like that trailer. nice and low

Notice the fenders sticking over the deck? Not good ! That would really limit the loads that can be hauled.

looks to me like you have them placed about right.  far enough forward to put some weight on the truck without pointing the nose into the atmosphere.   if it were me, I would invest in some chains as any DOT looking may question straps even if they are rated enough where he may not with chains, and its just better if they dont pull you over even if you are legal with straps.

Chris as stated above under 10000 lbs you don't need to chain all 4 corners just chain front and back. When I haul my d17 or d15 I chain around the front axel assembly on both sides with a single chain from a d hook on the trailer around the front axel across the tractor under the counter weight over the axel on the other side and to the other d ring on the trailler to a load binder. Could probably keep the tractor cleaner by crossing on the trailer and hooking both ends around the tractor one on each side. I have put a clevis in the drawbar and crossed the back it works. But if I had a narrow front end I would want to chain both sides on the rear. I wouldn't run less then 3 points because if you cross to the tractor both front and back with only one attachment point on the tractor it can hop sideways. Let me tell you that is not what you want to be on the side of the road fixing...
If you chain it you need grade 80 chain i think it is the gold color chain it really stands right out and is easy to see if you didn't use it. And a load binder on all chains DOT doesn't aprove of binders only on one end.

You can use straps but I avoid them on anything metal they can get cut from the road vibration.   If you are worried about the paint and want to use the big heavy straps I would definitely put an old tire tube between the strap and the tractor so the rubber protects the strap from getting cut. Been there with straps before and they always break in the middle of nowhere with a long ride ahead...

I always drive my tractors on it is just easier for me to back off then to back on. That and my trailler is too narrow at the fenders for my d17 to fit.
As to loading you want the tractor far enough ahead to squat the truck like you put a decent load in the bed not like it is overloaded and not like there is no weight at all. With a decent squat the rear end won't be as likely to be pushed by the trailer.
Oh always double check your breaks when you hit the road normally have to dial them in on an adjustable controller I like the trailler to just pull on the truck a tinny bit then if it does start to break loose you can touch the breaks and it will slow down faster then the truck pulling itself straight. It doesn't take but a tiny bit more brake on the trailer so when you stop you should just feel it pull you back a little.
And alway always check the chains every mile till the are tight when you check them. It sometimes takes a time or two to get them to stay tight. You would be amazed at how much everything moves when you hit the road.

I drive on forwards, just my preference, I drive on until I feel the trailer level out.  Seems to work out for me

If the breather cap is loose fitting, take it off and put it in the truck.

After starting out and having traveled at least several miles, pull over and check all of your tie downs.

I use a clevis on the drawbar for an anchor point on the rear.

If you drive on forwards, you do not need a third ramp.  approach the trailer at a slight angle.  drive the front end up the farthest away ramp.  once the front tires are on the trailer, turn the wheel to bring the tractor around for the rears to come up the ramps.  you may need to use the brake on one side to help swing it around.

Any turboed tractor, I''m told, should have the exhaust duct taped over to prevent the turbo from spinning without oil pressure.

When in doubt, on either a gooseneck or bumper pull, get out the tape measure. On level ground with empty trailer hooked to truck, measure from an easy reference point like the bottom of the truck bumper or front of trailer frame/side rail/deck, to ground level.
Then measure the rear of the trailer the same way.
This only takes a minute or two and you may just be surprised.
Pull tractor on with consideration to required "hitch weight", and what weight you NEED to have over the trailer axles safely.
Moving the tractor just 6" forward or back can sometimes make a considerable difference.
This assumes you are within total GVWR and I like to use at least a 20-25% safety factor. Why risk it and push it to the limit?
This assumes the truck is matched to the trailer, both are in operable condition and care is taken while tieing down, and driving.
BIG difference in pulling on vs. backing, on some truck trailer combinations as well.
I try to follow the "rules" I have learned from others over the past 35 years in the oilfield, both land and marine, and make myself do it the same for both short distances and cross country.

Wow! What a wealth of information! Thanks to all you folks for contributing on this hauling thread. I have heard the stories about things happening and want to avoid some of the mistakes.

Don't know if I have seen the gold chain? Will have to look for that too. This type of stuff is not cheap but I would like to do it correctly and safely.
 Yes the next truck will have a bigger engine!:)

Regards,
 Chris

Also Dot requirements are generally required to be met if you are hauling for profit, not weight in regards to having DOT number.

Edited by VFDfireman - 02 Jun 2016 at 12:08pm

Ctucker, you are correct that you don't need 4 chains to do the 4 point hook, DOT does not see it that way though. It has to be 4 separate chains and 4 binders. I haul my tractors on 20,000lb goosenecks the smaller tractors I usually back on unless I have to pull them on. The larger ones I pull on. I usually use 4 points to tie down mainly because it's easier and I can do it from the ground.

Dans 7080 wrote: Ctucker, you are correct that you don't need 4 chains to do the 4 point hook, DOT does not see it that way though. It has to be 4 separate chains and 4 binders. I haul my tractors on 20,000lb goosenecks the smaller tractors I usually back on unless I have to pull them on. The larger ones I pull on. I usually use 4 points to tie down mainly because it's easier and I can do it from the ground.

 I guess there are people that read into the regulations what they think should be there but there is nothing that says you have to have separate chains for each of the 4 tie downs required on 10K + loads.
 We had a DOT officer at our spring club meeting a couple years ago that went over this and I have read the printed regulations. That doesn't mean the guy that stops and checks your load doesn't have a feather up his a-- and decides to screw with you. Some don't know and don't care what the regs say, just go by what they think.
 For us guys that haul a 5,000 tractor around only 2 tie downs are required. I just feel safer have 2 pulling back at opposite angles and one forward, just in case I have to STOP faster than I would like to. I'm not too worried about taking off to fast and the load rolling out the back even though I drive a Ferd with an International built engine
 I copied this from a Smokestack post just because.
   Make sure you have no bald or flat tires.
Over secure the load in a visible way.
Make sure ALL lights work. If you have a lot of extra lights, delete them if they are not legally needed-any dead light can be a ticket.
NEVER stop at the scales.
If the DOT nails you for ANY reason your answers are:
"I had no idea, been doing this for years and never stopped"
"I'm hauling MY tractor to/from a show for pleasure" (NEVER let them have any reason to think you are using the tractor for hire/profit of any kind, including prizes of value, never let them think you are moving the tractor for 'hire' or are a tractor broker-once you seem to step over the line from personal to commercial he's got a nice, big, thick and sometimes confusingly worded book to throw at you, and he might put you "Out Of Service" right there and really leave you in a pickle, especially if there is no way on earth you can make the rig legal)

The law of the land is:
"If an officer does pull you over, he shall write you any citation he likes, and if you don't like it you can hire a attorney from your own pocket who may argue said ticket before his cousin, the judge"

I don't know about your areas, but in mine the DOT guys are getting thicker-and the chances of a bored DOT guy pulling you over for a roadside inspection are higher then ever.

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/8738513109300671116?lsf=seller:8740,store:3963407762955875167,lsfqd:0&prds=oid:4941975003341988444&q=5/16+in.+x+20+ft.+Grade+70+Tow+Chain+with+Grab+Hooks&hl=en&ei=jJNQV7vrNcnq-AHtjIOgCQ&lsft=cm_mmc:Shopping-_-LIAs-_-D25H-_-203958797

Chris it is grade 70 chain for towing. I need to pick up a set be for I do much myself got called on it once even though the chain i was using was way overkill.

I buy 20' 3/8 grade 70 chain from the truck supply places (Fleetpride,TruckPRO etc)
Cut it in two, add a grade 70 slip hook with lock to the cut ends. I use the slip hook in my D rings saving the grab hook for the tractor. I keep two extra 20' chains for going across the backhoe bucket and the front end loader bucket when hauling my TLB. Georgia requires only two chains + 1 for each attached implement, so a tractor and bush hog would need three chains and binders. Even with my little Massey 135 I do the 4 short chains to the corners and one on the plow or bush hog. I just chain them like I can't afford to loose them! (I can't)

I saw a dump truck pulling a TLB flip and roll going 55 mph back when I was on the Fire Department, tractor never moved, stayed in place even while the rotator wrecker lifted it out of the creek it landed in. everyone, including the DOT men and Troopers complemented the driver on his chaining.
If you are a strap user, don't remove the tags, have a cut, or have it running across a sharp place or our DOT and State guys will put you on the side of the road in a heartbeat!