Loading/Hauling tractors?
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=124034
Printed Date: 01 Dec 2024 at 11:38pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Loading/Hauling tractors?
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Subject: Loading/Hauling tractors?
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 6:47am
|
Folks, Maybe this thread should be in construction or equip section? Just thought I would post some pictures of truck/trailer and tractors and get some suggestions as to how others load and or haul there toys. Pretty much as usual a open discussion on the things that work well for you, and things to watch out for. I haven't hauled much and this is a good place to learn form folks that may haul every day. I know we may get into the regulations that could be different from state to state to? So here is the F250 (gas) 5.4L with the 8K car hauler and Jacks WD (just setting on it as a loading test)     Ok Dad's narrow front end WD, same loading/ center ramp test. Do you load them facing forward or backward? Weight location on trailer/truck?     I did buy two of the ratchet type binders. I think I might have to get two more? One for each corner. Have the chains I believe will work, although one is lighter that the other. Also at this time I don't have 4 chains, one for each corner. Was going to go through a clevis at the draw bar. Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Replies:
Posted By: allisguy.11
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 7:01am
| I like that trailer. nice and low |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 7:05am
| I use a 7k car trailer. I just drive it on facing foward till the rear tires are between the axles. Chain the front to each corner and ratchet strap the drawbar to each corner. My trailer has fender high rails down the complete length and sits very low. I haul the CA with a l306 to the church weekly during the mowing season and don't use any ramps. My trailer is low enough I just back up to the parking lot edge and drive off and back on again when I'm done. I don't have any pictures of it loaded. |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 7:22am
|
Like Dave I use a 7K car hauler also. Drive it on forward and strap it down. I use 8 straps even though 4 is all that is required I play the "what if" game and add more than needed. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 7:38am
|
4 point tie-down. I typically use ratchet straps. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/RangerCharlie/media/YUNC0002_zpsjgabldjs.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 7:41am
|
Other than you have the baby motor looks like you have a sharp truck!!!!!!!!! I occasionally back them on so I can just drive them off. If your 10,001 lb or greater I believe you need a USDOT number. I use magnetic USDOT numbers so I can go incognito if I want. Chain/strap your load down good and tight and drop the hammer. I have heard a couple commercial truckers say appearance goes a long ways. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 7:45am
Notice the fenders sticking over the deck? Not good ! That would really limit the loads that can be hauled. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
allisguy.11 wrote:Posted By: Pat the Plumber CIL
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 7:45am
|
I usually drive them on and have them facing forward .I like the trailer holding most of the weight .Some weight on hitch is needed .I look at load and move tractor until you can see weight start to push hitch down . Have seen a scale on a trailer that tells you how much tongue weight there is . My goal when I strap a tractor down is to do such a good job that when the state trooper is walking back to the truck after checking my info out he says " I was going to write you a ticket ,,, but since you did such a good job strapping that tractor down I am going to let you off with a warning this time " Has never happened yet , but that is my goal. Visible load rating on straps and chains is nice to have . If your equipment looks good and well taken care of most cops wont bother you. If your straps are frayed , chains rusty ,truck and trailer all beat up , trooper may have issues with you . lots of common sense goes a long way with haulin stuff ------------- You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails 1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF. |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 7:50am
|
looks to me like you have them placed about right. far enough forward to put some weight on the truck without pointing the nose into the atmosphere. if it were me, I would invest in some chains as any DOT looking may question straps even if they are rated enough where he may not with chains, and its just better if they dont pull you over even if you are legal with straps. ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 8:03am
|
You don't need 4 chains to do a 4 point tie down. Put a couple grab hooks on either side of the tractor front and rear. Chain the from 2 ways using the grab hooks so you have an anchor point on each side, then chain and bind the rear, pulling the front chains tight.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 8:45am
|
Chris as stated above under 10000 lbs you don't need to chain all 4 corners just chain front and back. When I haul my d17 or d15 I chain around the front axel assembly on both sides with a single chain from a d hook on the trailer around the front axel across the tractor under the counter weight over the axel on the other side and to the other d ring on the trailler to a load binder. Could probably keep the tractor cleaner by crossing on the trailer and hooking both ends around the tractor one on each side. I have put a clevis in the drawbar and crossed the back it works. But if I had a narrow front end I would want to chain both sides on the rear. I wouldn't run less then 3 points because if you cross to the tractor both front and back with only one attachment point on the tractor it can hop sideways. Let me tell you that is not what you want to be on the side of the road fixing... If you chain it you need grade 80 chain i think it is the gold color chain it really stands right out and is easy to see if you didn't use it. And a load binder on all chains DOT doesn't aprove of binders only on one end. You can use straps but I avoid them on anything metal they can get cut from the road vibration. If you are worried about the paint and want to use the big heavy straps I would definitely put an old tire tube between the strap and the tractor so the rubber protects the strap from getting cut. Been there with straps before and they always break in the middle of nowhere with a long ride ahead... I always drive my tractors on it is just easier for me to back off then to back on. That and my trailler is too narrow at the fenders for my d17 to fit. As to loading you want the tractor far enough ahead to squat the truck like you put a decent load in the bed not like it is overloaded and not like there is no weight at all. With a decent squat the rear end won't be as likely to be pushed by the trailer. Oh always double check your breaks when you hit the road normally have to dial them in on an adjustable controller I like the trailler to just pull on the truck a tinny bit then if it does start to break loose you can touch the breaks and it will slow down faster then the truck pulling itself straight. It doesn't take but a tiny bit more brake on the trailer so when you stop you should just feel it pull you back a little. And alway always check the chains every mile till the are tight when you check them. It sometimes takes a time or two to get them to stay tight. You would be amazed at how much everything moves when you hit the road. |
Posted By: Dale-OH
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 8:46am
http://s406.photobucket.com/user/dalem206/media/Trucking/20130831_191148.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> We use 4 point tie down on all tractors, some take more as we get into bigger units depending on weight and length. |
Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 8:49am
|
I drive on forwards, just my preference, I drive on until I feel the trailer level out. Seems to work out for me If the breather cap is loose fitting, take it off and put it in the truck. After starting out and having traveled at least several miles, pull over and check all of your tie downs. I use a clevis on the drawbar for an anchor point on the rear. If you drive on forwards, you do not need a third ramp. approach the trailer at a slight angle. drive the front end up the farthest away ramp. once the front tires are on the trailer, turn the wheel to bring the tractor around for the rears to come up the ramps. you may need to use the brake on one side to help swing it around. ------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446 |
Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 9:00am
|
Ive tried the come in at an angle and use the 2 ramps with narrow front tractors. That is dangerous! I just back on now. With two ramps. The front tire will just walk up the end of the trailer. I put one chain in the back and two straps in I the front |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 9:25am
|
Any turboed tractor, I''m told, should have the exhaust duct taped over to prevent the turbo from spinning without oil pressure.
------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 9:27am
| Lonn thanks for that tip I have one like that I need to haul before too long and I wouldn't have thought to even know it could be an issue. |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 9:39am
|
When in doubt, on either a gooseneck or bumper pull, get out the tape measure. On level ground with empty trailer hooked to truck, measure from an easy reference point like the bottom of the truck bumper or front of trailer frame/side rail/deck, to ground level. Then measure the rear of the trailer the same way. This only takes a minute or two and you may just be surprised. Pull tractor on with consideration to required "hitch weight", and what weight you NEED to have over the trailer axles safely. Moving the tractor just 6" forward or back can sometimes make a considerable difference. This assumes you are within total GVWR and I like to use at least a 20-25% safety factor. Why risk it and push it to the limit? This assumes the truck is matched to the trailer, both are in operable condition and care is taken while tieing down, and driving. BIG difference in pulling on vs. backing, on some truck trailer combinations as well. I try to follow the "rules" I have learned from others over the past 35 years in the oilfield, both land and marine, and make myself do it the same for both short distances and cross country. |
Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 10:08am
|
My daily load....load and unload up to 5 times a day. I only use two chains, have for years. http://s29.photobucket.com/user/ejons/media/002_zps2gmeszik.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- ALLIS EXPRESS! This year: |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 12:03pm
|
Wow! What a wealth of information! Thanks to all you folks for contributing on this hauling thread. I have heard the stories about things happening and want to avoid some of the mistakes. Don't know if I have seen the gold chain? Will have to look for that too. This type of stuff is not cheap but I would like to do it correctly and safely. Yes the next truck will have a bigger engine!:) Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: VFDfireman
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 12:03pm
|
If you are using straps make sure you use axel straps for your tractor connections. This accomplishes a couple of things... Won't chew up your paint as bad. Cheap to replace compared to the full length straps. Gives you solid connection points. I use 4, 2' 10k lb axel straps and 4, 10k lb ratchet straps for my WD45 on my car trailer. |
Posted By: VFDfireman
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 12:05pm
| Also Dot requirements are generally required to be met if you are hauling for profit, not weight in regards to having DOT number. |
Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 12:43pm
|
Hi Chris! Echoing Tim in Ft. Worth, I've used the "gauge" of 2 inches lower on the bumper height, from unloaded to loaded trailer, to have just about the right amount of weight on the pickup for good towing. Not overloaded on the pickup and the weight balanced out on your trailer. Been working great for me all of these years. And I drive mine on forward, too.
------------- How blessed we are by HIS GRACE! |
Posted By: Dans 7080
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 1:26pm
|
Ctucker, you are correct that you don't need 4 chains to do the 4 point hook, DOT does not see it that way though. It has to be 4 separate chains and 4 binders. I haul my tractors on 20,000lb goosenecks the smaller tractors I usually back on unless I have to pull them on. The larger ones I pull on. I usually use 4 points to tie down mainly because it's easier and I can do it from the ground. ------------- When someone tells you Nothings Impossible, Tell them to slam a revolving door |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 1:53pm
|
VA DOT is the same way, has to be separate chains. Guy had his Narrow H with 2 bolted on chain hooks. Took 1 long chain to 1 side hooked it and then to the other side and hooked it and then down to the anchor point. DOT said nope, has to be separate. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 2:12pm
I guess there are people that read into the regulations what they think should be there but there is nothing that says you have to have separate chains for each of the 4 tie downs required on 10K + loads. We had a DOT officer at our spring club meeting a couple years ago that went over this and I have read the printed regulations. That doesn't mean the guy that stops and checks your load doesn't have a feather up his a-- and decides to screw with you. Some don't know and don't care what the regs say, just go by what they think. For us guys that haul a 5,000 tractor around only 2 tie downs are required. I just feel safer have 2 pulling back at opposite angles and one forward, just in case I have to STOP faster than I would like to. I'm not too worried about taking off to fast and the load rolling out the back even though I drive a Ferd with an International built engine  I copied this from a Smokestack post just because. Make sure you have no bald or flat tires. Over secure the load in a visible way. Make sure ALL lights work. If you have a lot of extra lights, delete them if they are not legally needed-any dead light can be a ticket. NEVER stop at the scales. If the DOT nails you for ANY reason your answers are: "I had no idea, been doing this for years and never stopped" "I'm hauling MY tractor to/from a show for pleasure" (NEVER let them have any reason to think you are using the tractor for hire/profit of any kind, including prizes of value, never let them think you are moving the tractor for 'hire' or are a tractor broker-once you seem to step over the line from personal to commercial he's got a nice, big, thick and sometimes confusingly worded book to throw at you, and he might put you "Out Of Service" right there and really leave you in a pickle, especially if there is no way on earth you can make the rig legal) The law of the land is: "If an officer does pull you over, he shall write you any citation he likes, and if you don't like it you can hire a attorney from your own pocket who may argue said ticket before his cousin, the judge" I don't know about your areas, but in mine the DOT guys are getting thicker-and the chances of a bored DOT guy pulling you over for a roadside inspection are higher then ever. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 2:16pm
|
If you have a loader, or a backhoe, the bucket needs it's own tie down. I wounder about Eldons mower. It is pushed against the front rail so one tie down for it should satisfy any DOT agent but just because it is attached to the tractor, doesn't satisfy the DOT regs that I have read.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 3:17pm
|
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/8738513109300671116?lsf=seller:8740,store:3963407762955875167,lsfqd:0&prds=oid:4941975003341988444&q=5/16+in.+x+20+ft.+Grade+70+Tow+Chain+with+Grab+Hooks&hl=en&ei=jJNQV7vrNcnq-AHtjIOgCQ&lsft=cm_mmc:Shopping-_-LIAs-_-D25H-_-203958797" rel="nofollow - https://www.google.com/shopping/product/8738513109300671116?lsf=seller:8740,store:3963407762955875167,lsfqd:0&prds=oid:4941975003341988444&q=5/16+in.+x+20+ft.+Grade+70+Tow+Chain+with+Grab+Hooks&hl=en&ei=jJNQV7vrNcnq-AHtjIOgCQ&lsft=cm_mmc:Shopping-_-LIAs-_-D25H-_-203958797 Chris it is grade 70 chain for towing. I need to pick up a set be for I do much myself got called on it once even though the chain i was using was way overkill. |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 3:17pm
|
One thing to remember; you should secure your tractor (or any other load for that reason) so that it doesn't move if you are involved in an accident. If someone pulls out in front of you and you hit them, the last thing you want happening is the tractor coming loose and into the cab of the truck or hitting someone else. If you're involved in an accident, you certainly don't want the tractor becoming a projectile! |
Posted By: JoeM(GA)
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 3:52pm
|
I buy 20' 3/8 grade 70 chain from the truck supply places (Fleetpride,TruckPRO etc) Cut it in two, add a grade 70 slip hook with lock to the cut ends. I use the slip hook in my D rings saving the grab hook for the tractor. I keep two extra 20' chains for going across the backhoe bucket and the front end loader bucket when hauling my TLB. Georgia requires only two chains + 1 for each attached implement, so a tractor and bush hog would need three chains and binders. Even with my little Massey 135 I do the 4 short chains to the corners and one on the plow or bush hog. I just chain them like I can't afford to loose them! (I can't) I saw a dump truck pulling a TLB flip and roll going 55 mph back when I was on the Fire Department, tractor never moved, stayed in place even while the rotator wrecker lifted it out of the creek it landed in. everyone, including the DOT men and Troopers complemented the driver on his chaining. If you are a strap user, don't remove the tags, have a cut, or have it running across a sharp place or our DOT and State guys will put you on the side of the road in a heartbeat! ------------- Allis Express North Georgia 41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 4:13pm
| Some time back I was stopped by commercial truck inspector, he asked the usual questions like "where are you headed" etc then we got to talking tractors and he asked me if I ever sold any tractors and I said yes. He then went into a tyraid and said if I sold tractors then I was in business. I then firmly said that it was a hobby that I have a certain amount of money invested and occasionally I will sell one and buy another and that I could assure him there was no financial gain. He then let me go on my way but they do know how to ask questions in such a way to trap you. |
Posted By: VFDfireman
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 5:16pm
| Best just to tell them your transporting it to a repair shop.... |
Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 5:16pm
|
I would Never back a tractor up on a trailer and then hop front wheels up over end of trailer .That's asking for trouble .When the back tires break traction that tractor is going to be spinning to the side .Hope u can stop before it goes off the side and hurts someone. ------------- He who dies with the most toys is, nonetheless ,still dead. If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED. |
Posted By: Dans 7080
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 5:17pm
|
I run a heavy haul truck dealing with oversize loads almost daily and DOT more than I care to. Grade 70 chain is the minimum requirement for chain. I have been stopped and told the single chain/two point hook up is not legal. I stated if I cut the chain where it was slack it would be two pieces, he said that would be legal. If you read the law by the letter it states that there must be 4 tie downs rated at 5000lbs per tie down. By using 1 chain it is limited by to the 5000lb rating as it is still 1 piece regardless of how it is used. If the same chain is cut in 2 pieces both sides would have the 5000lb rating. As far as Eldon's situation if they find out the bushog will raise, it must be strapped down. A 1" ratchet strap would make you legal. ------------- When someone tells you Nothings Impossible, Tell them to slam a revolving door |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 8:57pm
|
Good stuff guys. Tractor Supply may have 3/8 70' chain? I will check tomorrow. So if I had 4, 10 foot pieces and the appropriate hooks, plus two more ratchet binders that would do it. Now that I think about it, not sure my ratchets are 3/8? Thanks for all the comments. My feeling on the center loading ramp for the tricycle tractors, is the same as the chains. I will try to make it as safe as possible. I had a WD and 3 bottom plow slip off a borrowed trailer last year. We were very lucky no one got injured! So another thing I am going to get operational is the Warn winch. I need to run some 10 foot battery cables from the upper box down to the winch. I have short cables but want to try to get it set up more correctly. And have it ready to use when needed. I think Napa may have the cable and connectors I need. As many have said the bad stuff usually happens in the worst conditions. Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2016 at 9:07pm
| Chris i should have taken pictures when I did it but I hauled my tedder which is one of those 6 basket tedders. That thing is like a great big spring. Anyway i asked someone who hauled alot of stuff in the past how to chain it down. Ended up crossing the two ends on the tedder to the opposite side of the trailer. By crossing the chains it really locked it down so the tedder couldn't walk sideways. Just one more trick that might come in handy. Once you have the tractors fully chained down go back and put it in gear and lock the brake. It will make a big difference if the chains come loose. |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2016 at 6:57am
Unless you have something with a 4inch exhaust stuffing a wornout old sock in the exhaust does the same thing and it's cleaner and quicker. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
Posted By: ac45dave
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2016 at 9:07am
------------- 54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2016 at 4:16pm
|
I always load so the truck and trailer are level regardless if I back or drive on. I chained down so the tires squish and the chains have a dull ring when hit with the boomer cheater pipe. I chained so the tractors could not move sideways. 
 |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2016 at 5:53pm
Let that be a lesson to you... I never tell them the real truth, just keep my mouth shut, mostly. They never give a sucker an even break, so why should I kiss up to the gestapo? I always have an address, on the road behind the chicken coop, that I can say I am going to. They can't do squat about it, if you keeps your mouth shut...
|
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2016 at 10:04pm
|
Well I missed Dave's link to the non China chains. I had purchased 3/8 70 grade chain from TSC today. Just need to get two more hooks. Yea I was not surprised that they where stamped CHINA. So I think I am pretty well set for chains and binders. Also worked on my wiring for the winch and got that cleaned up and is functional on the trailer too. Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |