doubling transmissions

there was a thread on here lately about running a wd or wd45 with a wc transmission in front of it. after concurring with my grandpa i found out that we have the needed parts and can fabricate the parts we cant buy or get, i was just wondering how one would go about adding the trans in front of the wd trans, and any benefits and disadvantages to adding the wc trans.

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More gears, more choices. More parasitic load, more weight probably where it isn't wanted.

I don't like a lot of choices, it's just more oportunity to pick the wrong gear.

If you don't want to spend much money but you want to spend time, there's plenty of things to learn about carbuerators and camshafts that will help more than having a split gear. Build a good hitch assembly so you can adjust it and maintain the 20" limit with the slack taken out.

Ideal to this post would be to pull all drive line bearings and put NTN low friction bearings in place of those 60 year old technology hardware. You will gain more HP to the ground than adding another headache to shift . Btw covers don't hide additional transmissions from an official tech. Bending to many rules will send your pulling credibility to the jiffy jon.

DrAllis wrote: Why in Sam Hill anyone would want to add a second transmission for tractor pulling is beyond me. If you need slower gearing, fix the engine and make more HP. If you need a gear between 1st and 2nd, fix the engine and make more HP so 2nd gear works. It really is that simple.

DrAllis wrote: Yup. Lot's of tractors win first place going slower than the rest of the competition!! Good luck ! An engine can be built with components that still allow regular gasoline and still be capable of running an "auger".....A.K.A. 175 HP output, but you go right on ahead and install that there magic extra transmission.

be easy on him doc he is one of hem teenagers that can see two transmissions but only sees a orange engine hanging over wd with radiator removed. he doesn't see the 4.75 bore and the 6.250 stroke.

So you're running out of power in 1st gear.  You have options

1. drop the drawbar

2.  put smaller tires on

3.  Change the ring and pinion with a WD45 diesel or D-17

4.  make more power

Myself I'd opt for option #4.  You can do this for very little money and less work than cobbing a transmission in.  Simply retard the cam one tooth on the timing gears, unless you can measure true TDC and degree the cam, this is your best option.  If you could take the head off the engine and measure things out, you could actually position the cam where it is needed with precision.  The 1 tooth retarded is the easy option, not as good as putting it where it is needed but better than where it's at.

Your intake manifold sucks.  They are bad, with a few hours of work they can be made decent.

Your carbuerator is already to small..... but don't put a bigger one on.  Just do some modifications to get more through it or you won't have enough engine to pull enough signal to make a bigger carbuerator work.  Again a few hours of work.

If you are able to fabricate the brackets and adapters to put a transmission in, you are able to make a carbuerator venturi and do some epoxy work in the bowl to help the air line up with the venturi.  It won't be hard to find 25% more air flow through your carbuerator pretty quick and still keep a small enough venturi that it pulls good signal at low speed.

So with some thought and advice, you can spend no more than some basic shop supplies and learn something.

So a flat tire changes brand name. Lol.

wi50 wrote: So you're running out of power in 1st gear.  You have options 1. drop the drawbar 2.  put smaller tires on 3.  Change the ring and pinion with a WD45 diesel or D-17 4.  make more power Myself I'd opt for option #4.  You can do this for very little money and less work than cobbing a transmission in.  Simply retard the cam one tooth on the timing gears, unless you can measure true TDC and degree the cam, this is your best option.  If you could take the head off the engine and measure things out, you could actually position the cam where it is needed with precision.  The 1 tooth retarded is the easy option, not as good as putting it where it is needed but better than where it's at. Your intake manifold sucks.  They are bad, with a few hours of work they can be made decent. Your carbuerator is already to small..... but don't put a bigger one on.  Just do some modifications to get more through it or you won't have enough engine to pull enough signal to make a bigger carbuerator work.  Again a few hours of work. If you are able to fabricate the brackets and adapters to put a transmission in, you are able to make a carbuerator venturi and do some epoxy work in the bowl to help the air line up with the venturi.  It won't be hard to find 25% more air flow through your carbuerator pretty quick and still keep a small enough venturi that it pulls good signal at low speed. So with some thought and advice, you can spend no more than some basic shop supplies and learn something.

here is the article i read about it

geez all you engine builders get upset when somebody finds a way for a bone stock wd45 to run 15.5 38s in a 3 or 4 mph class and win with out spending a lot of money which I don't or the guy asking the question sounds like he has. that's what I built for my buddy that didn't have a lot of money to spend and he does win with it. pulls up to 4500 pound class with out killing it

if you cant run 38inch rubber id find somewhere else to pull because your already at a disadvantage. 28s can pull good but u have to really be on top of your game. me I like to drink a couple beers and look at the girls than constantly study the track.

If you don't already have 4.5 inch stroke thatd be the first thing id save my money up to do. I saw a crank for sale the other day for 150 money well spent.

A well tuned 226 will pull amazing. seen lots of guys win with 28 or 38 rubber. This forum has covered this stuff many times.

Dirty Harry,