301 from gleaner M into 190

I don't know about the M but the one I have out of a G does not have any way to mount the pump on the frt plate, you may have to find a plate for a tractor.

here are the pictures he sent me of the fron cover where my hyd pump is. the plate with 2 bolts on the front side looks identical to my 190. the back side looks bare , but with 4 bolts in about the same location as the mounting bolts of my pump. i am not to worried about the oil pan clearance. i can modify this 1 or fabricate my own, or if it is easy enough and cheap i would get the correct one. thanks for the input guys

ok, i kinda got it now


Edited by screwylouie010 - 10 Mar 2014 at 1:26pm

WE PUT M ENGINE INTO 7000.
yOU WILL NEED SOME GOOD PULLERS TO CHANGE FRONT PARTS.

Minnimec pumps use the same front plate as the later roosamaster like whats on the 7000 series. Get a front plate from a "7000" and put in on the front and she will bolt right in.

here it is
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Edited by screwylouie010 - 10 Mar 2014 at 7:16pm

right now the tach is driven off the distributor, or is atleast supposed to be. now on the minnmec, if it is like the 1 on our ford tw 5, the tach is driven off of the end of the pump. i did ask the seller if and where the cable hooks to

I did this. It is a lot of work but doable.  1 front pulley will have to be 190xt - combine will hit front cast iron. 2 pan will hit axle - have to  lower the axle. 3. oil cooler will hit rear firewall - it will have to go. 3 Frame will have to be cut on RH side for fuel pump and left hand side for oil filters. 4 Radiator will have to be raised 2.5" approx. Lots of flex hoses as radiator outlets not the same. (I spaced up the front side sheets leaving a gap between the bottom and the cast iron front )  5 id did not change front cover  drilled with holesaw opening for pump drive and used existing bolts and then fabricated clamp for rest of attaching drive parts.  6 clutch linkage will have to be modified.  7 front plates have to have mounting flanges welded to them for front attachment points. 8 starter drive change. 9 tach fits right into back of simms minn inline pump. 10 have to fab bracket for throttle and fuel shut off cables.  (someone had maxed out the fuel screw on the simms pump. I dyno'd and clutch slipped at approx. 165 hp)

thank you tbran. that is a lot of useful info. but what do you mean you fabricated clamp for attaching rest of the drive parts 

also, tbran, do you have any pictures, that would be great

the Simms pump was more common in the L, but we do have a few M's with the Simms pump as well one of which is a hydrostat bean special machine. I personally am not a fan of it. hard starting is the main downpoint.

the roosa is a much better unit IMO.

it could have come from an L, was told it was pulled from and m. thought i remember when i was flipping through my Shoup catalog that the M had the 301 and M2 had the 426. as far as the hard starting, ill be advancing the timing anyways. i dont if the simms pumps on the Allis engines have it but on our fords we a have cold starting timing advance button on the pump. it makes a big difference when starting in the winter


Edited by screwylouie010 - 02 Apr 2014 at 8:36pm

Think I saw the pictures from that build. Looks good. Engine should be here soon and have some parts on the way. Does anyone know what flywheel I will need? Ill put a fresh clutch in too. Would also like to find an intake stack like that one.

I think Ms (1,2, and 3) used the 301 while the Ls had the 301 as standard engine with the 426 as an option.

screwylouie010 wrote: it could have come from an L, was told it was pulled from and m. thought i remember when i was flipping through my Shoup catalog that the M had the 301 and M2 had the 426. as far as the hard starting, ill be advancing the timing anyways. i dont if the simms pumps on the Allis engines have it but on our fords we a have cold starting timing advance button on the pump. it makes a big difference when starting in the winter