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MNLonnie 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Baxter MN
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 Topic: Question on CE motor bearings
Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 6:30pm |
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Putting the CE motor together for my C and the book calls for shims between the bearing caps on the rods and mains but this motor didn't have any when I tore it apart. I woluld guess they were removed to tighten up the old bearings. So where do I get new shims from?
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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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wkpoor
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Location: Amanda, OH
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Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 6:36pm |
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NAPA has them but brace yourself......40.00 for the kit that has just enough, no extras.
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B26240
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Location: mn
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Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 6:41pm |
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Lonnie sponsers of this site -- also Bruces brother has them
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JimD
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Location: Mounds, OK
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Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 7:03pm |
We've got them. $20 for a kit for all the rods, and $20 for a kit for all the mains.
JImD
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Owner of OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543
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Gary in da UP
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Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 7:03pm |
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If your engine did not have any, maybe you don't need them. The block might have been line -bored to accept the bearing shells without shimming. Just a thought.
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GregLawlerMinn
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Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 7:30pm |
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Gary is right; whenever I bring a CE engine in for machine work I have the bearings line bored and a bearing type pilot installed. Plastigage the bearings W/O shims; you should have 0.002-0.004 gap (I plastigage the bearings 180 degrees apart on the sides). If you need the shims; Jim D ia a great source.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 8:16pm |
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If you put new bearings in a rod and cap that needs shimmed, you will crush the bearing and have to replace it. Put the caps on the rods and the mains and mic the ID's and compare sizes to original specs.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 8:30pm |
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You better start as Tucker said. Measure the crank to see what the journals are, and if they are round.. then measure the old bearing bolted into the rod, see what the reading is and if it is round. YOu want about 2-3 thousands clearance, and round. Mains are the same, they had shims when new, but either taken out to tighten a worn crank, or it was line bored and dont need it.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 8:48pm |
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The mains on my WC didn't have shims but the mic told me it needed about .008 to get real close. The measurements were taken 12-6, 2-8 and 4-10 O'clock with no burrs, shims or bearings. Things weren't quite round so I shimmed the caps .006 and carefully honed the ID, with a good set of Sunnen hones. My main bores came out 95% clean up at the OEM size. The caps had less than an 1/8 inch of non clean up at the parting line. When I put the .020 under bearings in and dropped the .020 under crank in, I had .0025 clearance and the crank spun free.
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MNLonnie
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Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 8:52pm |
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The crank was ground .020 and I have all new bearings but it was not line bored, at least not this time. Tomorrow when I get home I'll do more investigating. In theory it should still need shims if it has never been lined bored I would think. Thanks for all the input, I'll update when I find out more.
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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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MNLonnie
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Posted: 16 Jul 2011 at 1:01pm |
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I plastigaged it and with just snugging them up I was at .001 so if it was torqued it would be tighter than frogs but. I ordered shims. Thanks guys.
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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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