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Question on CE motor bearings

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33942
Printed Date: 28 Sep 2025 at 5:13pm
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Topic: Question on CE motor bearings
Posted By: MNLonnie
Subject: Question on CE motor bearings
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 6:30pm
Putting the CE motor together for my C and the book calls for shims between the bearing caps on the rods and mains but this motor didn't have any when I tore it apart. I woluld guess they were removed to tighten up the old bearings. So where do I get new shims from? 

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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker



Replies:
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 6:36pm
NAPA has them but brace yourself......40.00 for the kit that has just enough, no extras.


Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 6:41pm
Lonnie sponsers of this site -- also Bruces brother has them


Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 7:03pm
We've got them.  $20 for a kit for all the rods, and $20 for a kit for all the mains.
JImD


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Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central.

We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543


Posted By: Gary in da UP
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 7:03pm
If your engine did not have any, maybe you don't need them. The block might have been line -bored to accept the bearing shells without shimming. Just a thought.


Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 7:30pm
Gary is right; whenever I bring a CE engine in for machine work I have the bearings line bored and a bearing type pilot installed. Plastigage the bearings W/O shims; you should have 0.002-0.004 gap (I plastigage the bearings 180 degrees apart on the sides). If you need the shims; Jim D ia a great source.

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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 8:16pm
If you put new bearings in a rod and cap that needs shimmed, you will crush the bearing and have to replace it. Put the caps on the rods and the mains and mic the ID's and compare sizes to original specs.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 8:30pm
You better start as Tucker said. Measure the crank to see what the journals are, and if they are round.. then measure the old bearing bolted into the rod, see what the reading is and if it is round. YOu want about 2-3 thousands clearance, and round. Mains are the same, they had shims when new, but either taken out to tighten a worn crank, or it was line bored and dont need it.

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 8:48pm
The mains on my WC didn't have shims but the mic told me it needed about .008 to get real close. The measurements were taken 12-6, 2-8 and 4-10 O'clock with no burrs, shims or bearings.  Things weren't quite round so I shimmed the caps .006 and carefully honed the ID, with a good set of Sunnen hones. My main bores came out 95% clean up at the OEM size. The caps had less than an 1/8 inch of non clean up at the parting line. When I put the .020 under bearings in and dropped the .020 under crank in, I had .0025 clearance and the crank spun free.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 8:52pm
The crank was ground .020 and I have all new bearings but it was not line bored, at least not this time. Tomorrow when I get home I'll do more investigating. In theory it should still need shims if it has never been lined bored I would think. Thanks for all the input, I'll update when I find out more.

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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker


Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2011 at 1:01pm
I plastigaged it and with just snugging them up I was at .001 so if it was torqued it would be tighter than frogs but. I ordered shims. Thanks guys.

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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker



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