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Suggestions on Adding a Hydraulic Valve on a WD |
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banjojelly
Bronze Level Joined: 4 hours 45 minutes ago Location: S. Illinois Points: 5 |
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Posted: 4 hours 29 minutes ago at 11:47am |
Hello. I usually frequent a different tractor related forum, but most of the tractor guys have left and it is mostly lawn and garden stuff now.
I have a WD with a loader that I have been using for small jobs around the house for about 8 years now. The large loader tractor and Kubota skid steer that we use on the farm are only about a mile from my house, so I can grab them if I need them, but having the WD around for moving stuff is pretty handy. My issue has become that my hydraulic lever has gotten to the point where it will no longer stay in position. I have tried pretty much everything I can do to make it stay put. It not just a creep. It either wants to be full pressure up, or drop. I am not going to waste a bunch of money rebuilding the selector assembly. The hydraulics are strong. I would like to just plumb in a spool valve and run my loader from that. I am not that familiar with the AC high pressure/ low volume system and it only needs to be a one way valve on top of that. My loader is a trip bucket. If anyone has ever done this before and could steer me in the right direction to do it as efficiently and cheap as possible, it would be much appreciated. Edited by banjojelly - 3 hours 49 minutes ago at 12:27pm |
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Ray54
Orange Level Access Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Paso Robles, Ca Points: 4546 |
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A simple no cost way to check out if the problem is the packing on the piston in the rams. Lift the boom up and let it drop a number of times. Put your hand on the ram, if it is much warmer than surrounding metal it is, it is the ram not your control valve. If the seal is bad on the piston of the ram oil leaks past and the friction creates heat.
I also use to worry that the control valve was leaking in situations like you have. Most times it is internal seals in the ram, and no oil is leaking to the outside.
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banjojelly
Bronze Level Joined: 4 hours 45 minutes ago Location: S. Illinois Points: 5 |
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If you are referring to the lift cylinders on my loader as being the rams, then I know they are not the problem. I honed and re-cupped them and replaced the wiper seals when I got the tractor running. They will hold position if the engine is off.
If you are referring to something else as being the rams, then you will have to elaborate for me.
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DSeries4
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7338 |
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The friction block on the lift lever is worn so the handle does not stay in position. You can get a new friction block from Steiners or DJS. Pretty cheap.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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banjojelly
Bronze Level Joined: 4 hours 45 minutes ago Location: S. Illinois Points: 5 |
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Sorry, I guess I didn't explain it very well. Even if I hold the lever in one position, it still will not stop moving. I even tried clamping the lever in place to the quadrant with vice grips but it still would either be dropping or raising. I feel like it is something further into the valving other than just the lever itself.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20534 |
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Tractors hydraulic pump isn't set for "HOLD" position work. Read the decal on the side of the battery box.
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banjojelly
Bronze Level Joined: 4 hours 45 minutes ago Location: S. Illinois Points: 5 |
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I dont have a battery box, let alone a decal. This is a working tractor, not a barn queen. I guess I need to rephrase my initial question. I don't want to keep messing with the lever set up anymore. Can anyone tell me how to add a hydraulic spool valve to a WD? Thank you.
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