Suggestions on Adding a Hydraulic Valve on a WD
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=204306
Printed Date: 26 Nov 2024 at 4:14pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Suggestions on Adding a Hydraulic Valve on a WD
Posted By: banjojelly
Subject: Suggestions on Adding a Hydraulic Valve on a WD
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2024 at 11:47am
|
Hello. I usually frequent a different tractor related forum, but most of the tractor guys have left and it is mostly lawn and garden stuff now. I have a WD with a loader that I have been using for small jobs around the house for about 8 years now. The large loader tractor and Kubota skid steer that we use on the farm are only about a mile from my house, so I can grab them if I need them, but having the WD around for moving stuff is pretty handy. My issue has become that my hydraulic lever has gotten to the point where it will no longer stay in position. I have tried pretty much everything I can do to make it stay put. It not just a creep. It either wants to be full pressure up, or drop. I am not going to waste a bunch of money rebuilding the selector assembly. The hydraulics are strong. I would like to just plumb in a spool valve and run my loader from that. I am not that familiar with the AC high pressure/ low volume system and it only needs to be a one way valve on top of that. My loader is a trip bucket. If anyone has ever done this before and could steer me in the right direction to do it as efficiently and cheap as possible, it would be much appreciated.   |
Replies:
Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2024 at 1:27pm
|
A simple no cost way to check out if the problem is the packing on the piston in the rams. Lift the boom up and let it drop a number of times. Put your hand on the ram, if it is much warmer than surrounding metal it is, it is the ram not your control valve. If the seal is bad on the piston of the ram oil leaks past and the friction creates heat. I also use to worry that the control valve was leaking in situations like you have. Most times it is internal seals in the ram, and no oil is leaking to the outside.
|
Posted By: banjojelly
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2024 at 1:38pm
|
If you are referring to the lift cylinders on my loader as being the rams, then I know they are not the problem. I honed and re-cupped them and replaced the wiper seals when I got the tractor running. They will hold position if the engine is off. If you are referring to something else as being the rams, then you will have to elaborate for me.
|
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2024 at 2:30pm
|
The friction block on the lift lever is worn so the handle does not stay in position. You can get a new friction block from Steiners or DJS. Pretty cheap. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: banjojelly
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2024 at 2:39pm
Sorry, I guess I didn't explain it very well. Even if I hold the lever in one position, it still will not stop moving. I even tried clamping the lever in place to the quadrant with vice grips but it still would either be dropping or raising. I feel like it is something further into the valving other than just the lever itself.
|
DSeries4 wrote:Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2024 at 2:46pm
| Tractors hydraulic pump isn't set for "HOLD" position work. Read the decal on the side of the battery box. |
Posted By: banjojelly
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2024 at 2:52pm
I dont have a battery box, let alone a decal. This is a working tractor, not a barn queen. I guess I need to rephrase my initial question. I don't want to keep messing with the lever set up anymore. Can anyone tell me how to add a hydraulic spool valve to a WD? Thank you.
|