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danny1954 
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 Topic: HD9B ALLIS CHALMERS DOZER 1953/1954
Posted: 15 Aug 2022 at 12:42pm |
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HELP PLEASE!! i have a allis chalmers hd9b dozer that broke the u joint for the hydraulic pump at the crank shaft pulley. Cant find any information on hd9b with front mounted hydraulic pump. Need help finding manual and parts. Part # on tag HD-9B-3443
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gemdozer
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Posted: 15 Aug 2022 at 5:27pm |
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I dismantled 2 HD9 for parts and should still have 1 or 2 u-joint on racking if you could have a picture
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AC Mel
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Posted: 15 Aug 2022 at 5:45pm |
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Do you know who the blade manufacturer is? CARCO? GARWOOD? . At that time all of the blades and hydraulics were aftermarket. I might have a manual....but the numbers probably won't be to helpful...pictures would be good.
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 9:06am |
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absolutely i just took some pictures and will post them shortly. thank you for the reply
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 9:07am |
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i do not know the manufacture of the blade i cannot find anything on it. I did take some pictures of the dozer and blade along with the parts i am needing. Will post those shortly
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CAL(KS)
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 9:26am |
i think a majority of hydraulic equipment at that time was hydreco but you can measure the yokes to find the correct u joint. thats how i got u joints for my TL-12 loader. no part #s used
Edited by CAL(KS) - 16 Aug 2022 at 9:27am
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 9:28am |
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CAL(KS)
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 9:48am |
thats a Garwood blade, but they didnt make hydraulic systems. Could be a baker hard nose and cylinders, either added on or the blade was swapped. I dont have my book here to double check.
Edited by CAL(KS) - 16 Aug 2022 at 9:52am
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 9:51am |
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 9:55am |
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 9:55am |
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 9:56am |
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 9:57am |
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 9:58am |
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CAL(KS)
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 10:01am |
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I would take those pieces to a truck shop like Inland truck parts. I see they have locations in texas. They can make drive shafts. You will never find a new one and salvage is going to take time and money to find and it could be near failure also. We have inland rebuild our CV joints on our large 4wd AC tractors and build shafts when worn.
Edited by CAL(KS) - 16 Aug 2022 at 10:03am
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 11:39am |
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I know that i can get the driveshaft built. But i need the end that connects to the crankshaft. Also i cannot figure out how to get the broken piece off the crankshaft. Any tips would be appreciated. Would be happy to give yall my phone # if you think you can help me. Thanks Danny
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CAL(KS)
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 12:08pm |
surely the short yoke on the crank is splined and slips in because the pulley is retained by a nut so it has to come off. could be packed tight with dirt or possibly the pully is multipiece, hard to see from picture. none of our detroits have crank drives.
did some more looking that is a garwood hardnose as well, so they did have hydraulic setups not just cable, but definitely not as common
Edited by CAL(KS) - 16 Aug 2022 at 12:16pm
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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gemdozer
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 1:42pm |
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My joint yoke to the pump have 14 narrow teethsand spider is 3 1/2 inchs outside but have 2 more on racking and recheck tomorrow.
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 2:39pm |
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 2:40pm |
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 2:41pm |
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 2:42pm |
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 2:42pm |
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Codger
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 3:24pm |
That coupler should be splined to the crankshaft snout. Take two sections of hardwood cut at a taper and drive between the crankshaft pulley, (sheave) and back of the coupler. drive these wedges till they are tight. Use either a 2lb hammer, or better yet an air hammer with mushroom bit and impact directly in the center of the coupler from the front of the tractor. Pound your wedges in tightly again and repeat as needed.
It will let go with a "pop" but the force must be kept heavy on the wedges. You could use heat but that would chance damaging the engine front oil seal.
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 3:25pm |
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danny1954
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 3:25pm |
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Ray54
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 5:49pm |
 Codger wrote:
That coupler should be splined to the crankshaft snout. Take two sections of hardwood cut at a taper and drive between the crankshaft pulley, (sheave) and back of the coupler. drive these wedges till they are tight. Use either a 2lb hammer, or better yet an air hammer with mushroom bit and impact directly in the center of the coupler from the front of the tractor. Pound your wedges in tightly again and repeat as needed.
It will let go with a "pop" but the force must be kept heavy on the wedges. You could use heat but that would chance damaging the engine front oil seal. |
My experience of someone hammering on a crank shafted ended very badly. Was a Ford 460 in a New Holland bale wagon if a gas engine may have a weaker crank. But the pully needed to come of crank to replace hydraulic drive belts. It had places to use pusher bolts but threads where stripped owner elected to use chisels as a wedge as suggested here. It came off and new belts installed. A mile down the road the crank broke. And that is a literal mile ran 10 minutes at most.
As a interesting fact the bale wagon owner also had 4 or 5 HD 9 crawlers for tillage.
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Codger
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 7:47pm |
I can see that happening with a nodular iron crankshaft of a Ford 460 engine. I've seen the crank snout snapped off on those engines from using belt driven hydraulic clutch pumps. High engine rpm and the all or nothing engagement these offer is brutal via shock loading.
One shouldn't need to hit this very hard at all. The trick is to set up high frequency vibrations through the parts with mechanical leverage in your favor. An air hammer does a great job for this.
It is possible that front yoke is bolted to the front plate on the backside also. This plate and yoke assembly is then bolted to the sheave. If so, and with the four capscrews removed as shown, side force via hammer to the remaining yoke ear would break it loose.
Edited by Codger - 16 Aug 2022 at 11:16pm
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AC Mel
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Posted: 16 Aug 2022 at 9:53pm |
Ok.....Man you guys are making me work hard here!!!...Dug through our archives and library and did find this Garwood book. They did make a hydraulic blade set up for all the dozers at the time. Cal's right that the cable blades and units seem to be more popular then. Also as he says...the HYDRECO pump was the main player then.....the pump in your picture I'm sure is a HYDRECO. I'm also sure the whole hardnose assembly is Garwood with maybe some modifications. The parts book of course does not mention HYDRECO by name. If I get them posted right the last picture....albeit disappointing...does not show getting the yoke of the pulley. I'll look at a HD 9 tractor tomorrow that might give us some help. Don't break anything ....cause yes..you should be able to build one.
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CAL(KS)
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Posted: 17 Aug 2022 at 7:28am |
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Mel to the rescue. Those are the books that are indispensable because unlike the tractor books, most can not be found online @ minnpar, and who knows how longs those will last.
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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