D17 Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

You have pull out the front axle to drop the oil pain. Assuming you have a gas engine, there are also 2 allen head bolts under the governor that need to be removed to separate the pan from the block. Putting the new gasket on the pan is also an adventure going around the cutouts for the crank.

'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080

Front end split. Had to do that on my D17 IV diesel when I took off the oil pan to repair a leak in it. Put a 55 gal. barrel under the wide front end and rolled it out away from the rest of the tractor. That seemed to work pretty well. Gatz took pictures of this and posted them, but was a long time ago and don't know where or how to access the pictures.

Too Tall wrote:

Can you replace the front seal at the same time?

Yes, it's the best time to do that. See last pic. Use a quality puller.
And get your cuss-words dictionary out, might need to consult it if ya run short. (JK)

Here's the pix Dave was talking about. This worked well. But if yours is a narrow front, you'll have to come up with something else; support is definitely req'd in either case.

1st pic shows the 55gal drum in position. Not obvious here is the heavy-duty screwjack that was used to raise and support the tractor minus the front end. It shows up better in the last pic

It takes a bit of finagling to get things to clear while it's being rolled out.

The P.S. cylinder flange-to-bolster casting developed a leak over the years, and this was the method used to get at it. The rack was riveted to the rod-end of the cylinder and we attempted to get it separated, but it didn't cooperate.
Permatex #2 was the solution. IIRC, Dave said it didn't leak after that.

On edit....
It may sound like the reason for the split was to take care of the P.S. cyl leak.
Not so; The primary reason was to replace the pan gasket as the OP was asking about.

gatz

Edited by Gatz in NE - 15 May 2017 at 7:07pm

I know what Don Bradley would say. Pull the engine and turn it upside down, then follow his instructions in his video...

"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

You might be able to leave the loader frame on, one less thing to put back. My 400 loader is bolted to the frame, not the front casting.

You will want to take the lift arms, cylinders, and hoses off to give you room to work.

I left the frame that is bolted to the side channels and rear axles on when I pulled mine.

I also just used a floor jack (not a barrel) to put under the frame and roll it out of the way. You will need to strap the wheels to the frame as shown in the above photos to keep them from turning when you pull it forward.

- Roscoe.

Great! There is nothing quick tatch about those loaders

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