D17 Oil Pan Gasket Replacement
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=138369
Printed Date: 26 Dec 2024 at 3:48pm
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Topic: D17 Oil Pan Gasket Replacement
Posted By: Too Tall
Subject: D17 Oil Pan Gasket Replacement
Date Posted: 13 May 2017 at 9:50am
| I recently replaced the clutch in my late model series IV and tried to replace the pan gasket and could not get the pan to drop down so I foolishly bolted it back up and know it leaks badly. Can you help me with how to do this? Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 13 May 2017 at 9:13pm
|
You have pull out the front axle to drop the oil pain. Assuming you have a gas engine, there are also 2 allen head bolts under the governor that need to be removed to separate the pan from the block. Putting the new gasket on the pan is also an adventure going around the cutouts for the crank.
------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 13 May 2017 at 9:38pm
| Just one Allen head bolt. If some one replaced the Allen head from the bottom, you'll have to remove the front steering assay. MACK |
Posted By: Dave (NE)
Date Posted: 14 May 2017 at 10:48am
| Front end split. Had to do that on my D17 IV diesel when I took off the oil pan to repair a leak in it. Put a 55 gal. barrel under the wide front end and rolled it out away from the rest of the tractor. That seemed to work pretty well. Gatz took pictures of this and posted them, but was a long time ago and don't know where or how to access the pictures. |
Posted By: Too Tall
Date Posted: 15 May 2017 at 1:23pm
| Can you replace the front seal at the same time? |
Posted By: Gatz in NE
Date Posted: 15 May 2017 at 4:53pm
Yes, it's the best time to do that. See last pic. Use a quality puller. And get your cuss-words dictionary out, might need to consult it if ya run short. (JK) Here's the pix Dave was talking about. This worked well. But if yours is a narrow front, you'll have to come up with something else; support is definitely req'd in either case. 1st pic shows the 55gal drum in position. Not obvious here is the heavy-duty screwjack that was used to raise and support the tractor minus the front end. It shows up better in the last pic  It takes a bit of finagling to get things to clear while it's being rolled out.  The P.S. cylinder flange-to-bolster casting developed a leak over the years, and this was the method used to get at it. The rack was riveted to the rod-end of the cylinder and we attempted to get it separated, but it didn't cooperate. Permatex #2 was the solution. IIRC, Dave said it didn't leak after that.     On edit.... It may sound like the reason for the split was to take care of the P.S. cyl leak. Not so; The primary reason was to replace the pan gasket as the OP was asking about. gatz |
Too Tall wrote:Posted By: Dave (NE)
Date Posted: 16 May 2017 at 10:37am
| Yeah, the oil pan, prior to my purchasing the tractor, had a large dent in it. Wasn't leaking at the time I obtained the tractor, but started a year or so later. Had to remove the pan, to get it straightened out and the hole repaired. Was really more of a task than what repairing an oil pan should be, but got it done due to the assistance from Gatz. Glad the form a gasket Permatex worked to fix the power steering leak! Dave |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 16 May 2017 at 10:52am
|
I know what Don Bradley would say. Pull the engine and turn it upside down, then follow his instructions in his video... ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Too Tall
Date Posted: 16 May 2017 at 5:41pm
| Thanks everyone for the info. It is a wide front so I like the barrel idea. Mine also has a P.S. leak I hope to find. It has a AC 500 loader on it that I assume needs to come off? I am sure I will need more help when I get around to tearing into it. |
Posted By: Roscoe62
Date Posted: 17 May 2017 at 9:02am
You might be able to leave the loader frame on, one less thing to put back. My 400 loader is bolted to the frame, not the front casting. |
Posted By: Too Tall
Date Posted: 17 May 2017 at 1:41pm
| Thanks Roscoe. Do you mean just the frame or can it be done without taking the whole loader off? |
Posted By: Roscoe62
Date Posted: 18 May 2017 at 4:42am
|
You will want to take the lift arms, cylinders, and hoses off to give you room to work. I left the frame that is bolted to the side channels and rear axles on when I pulled mine. I also just used a floor jack (not a barrel) to put under the frame and roll it out of the way. You will need to strap the wheels to the frame as shown in the above photos to keep them from turning when you pull it forward. - Roscoe.
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 May 2017 at 8:00am
| Raise the loader clear up and safety block the cylinders so it can't fall on you. Loosen side frame bolts so you can spread the side frames a little bit when needed. Jack up under the bell housing and loader frame towers. let the fun begin. I'd never remove the loader.....just roll the front support and axle away. |
Posted By: Too Tall
Date Posted: 18 May 2017 at 5:17pm
| Great! There is nothing quick tatch about those loaders |