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BlackFatbob 
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Joined: 12 May 2016
Location: SWFL
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 Topic: Line Hone or Shim a CA
Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 9:54am |
Guys, I would appreciate some opinions regarding line honing or shiming on a CA rebuild. I'm building this tractor primarily for mowing duty with a 5 ft woods and expect to be operating at a governed rpm north of 2,000. If it were yours would you line hone the mains and recondition the rods to eliminate the shims or just shim and go?
Thanks
Dennis
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GregLawlerMinn
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lawler, Mn
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Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 10:26am |
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I line bored those I rebuilt thereby eliminating the shimming. Cost more but eliminated a possibility of a mistake from my limited ability.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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BlackFatbob
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Location: SWFL
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Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 10:31am |
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Thanks Greg, based on your rebuilt pedigree, it means a lot.
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Dick L
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Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 11:25am |
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The only one of this type of engines I line bored was the one I used as a high RPM engine for my C I used for pulling a transfer sled. I just completed the 6th season mowing with a C that I put the engine together with all in spec used parts I removed from dead tractors that I bought in years past. I have pictures of the process I went thru in shimming both mains and rods. I run about 2200 RPM's mowing. If you want to put the money into line boring and machining the rods to remove shims it sure will not cause a problem. Properly shimmed will not be a problem either. Fear and the lack of understanding causes most to spend the extra money.
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CrestonM
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Location: Oklahoma
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Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 11:43am |
If you choose to shim, Steiner's announce they were now carrying shims for those engines, just after I rebuilt mine. I couldn't find shims ANYWHERE, so I used a Dr. Pepper can... Some would probably slap me, but I got proper clearances and the tractor runs great. I would definitely recommend getting real shims, since they are now available!
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JimD
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Location: Mounds, OK
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Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 11:49am |
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We also have the shims. You will get some pretty passionate answers here. Personally, I vote to re-shim. IT ran great that way for 60 years.
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Fred in Pa
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Hanover Pa.
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Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 11:50am |
 CrestonM wrote:
If you choose to shim, Steiner's announce they were now carrying shims for those engines, just after I rebuilt mine. I couldn't find shims ANYWHERE, so I used a Dr. Pepper can... Some would probably slap me, but I got proper clearances and the tractor runs great. I would definitely recommend getting real shims, since they are now available! |
They have always been available, I always do the rods , but I only line bored a few block's in the pass 30 years of building these motors .Turn crank ,start with new shims.
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If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 11:57am |
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Line-boring has always been a way to salvage a block that has spun a main bearing in a main bearing bore. Whenever you do this, the tail of the crankshaft gets raised up from true center a bit. The timing gear backlash also can get a little tighter. In a salvage effort, one can live with the negatives. When there's absolutely nothing wrong with the block, why ????????????????
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BlackFatbob
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Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 12:01pm |
Thanks Dick, That really cuts to the heart of my concern. Will the engine tolerate the rpm and load using shims, and would line honing be a waste considering the capabilities of the lube system and eventual bearing wear regardless.
I appreciate the experience and input. Think I'll shim it and go.
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BlackFatbob
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Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 12:03pm |
The block seems fine, however this was a wet and frozen engine with at least two liners broken out. I was 0.006 low between 2 and 3 on the deck before I cut it. So the block might be slightly distorted. I can get a feel for that as I shim and always back track if needed.
Thanks Doc
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BlackFatbob
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Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 12:13pm |
Good point on the rods. This engine had at least two liners frozen and broken that I know of. So it might be smart to recondition them jic.
Thanks
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 5:43pm |
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Check the main bearing bore alignment. They can be off enough that with proper clearance your crank can be locked when you tighten the caps.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Hubnut
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Joined: 30 Jul 2014
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Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 6:15pm |
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For amateurs like myself, I found it worth the little extra cost to line bore. However, after I did my first engine rebuild with line-boring, I shimmed the next 4 engine rebuilds I did with no problems.
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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DiyDave
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Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 6:21pm |
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Shim stock and plastigage are real cheap, MSC, Mcmaster-car, enco, and many others sell it on line...
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