Line Hone or Shim a CA
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=131425
Printed Date: 23 May 2025 at 3:38am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Line Hone or Shim a CA
Posted By: BlackFatbob
Subject: Line Hone or Shim a CA
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 9:54am
|
Guys, I would appreciate some opinions regarding line honing or shiming on a CA rebuild. I'm building this tractor primarily for mowing duty with a 5 ft woods and expect to be operating at a governed rpm north of 2,000. If it were yours would you line hone the mains and recondition the rods to eliminate the shims or just shim and go? Thanks Dennis
|
Replies:
Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 10:26am
|
I line bored those I rebuilt thereby eliminating the shimming. Cost more but eliminated a possibility of a mistake from my limited ability. ------------- What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC |
Posted By: BlackFatbob
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 10:31am
| Thanks Greg, based on your rebuilt pedigree, it means a lot. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 11:25am
| The only one of this type of engines I line bored was the one I used as a high RPM engine for my C I used for pulling a transfer sled. I just completed the 6th season mowing with a C that I put the engine together with all in spec used parts I removed from dead tractors that I bought in years past. I have pictures of the process I went thru in shimming both mains and rods. I run about 2200 RPM's mowing. If you want to put the money into line boring and machining the rods to remove shims it sure will not cause a problem. Properly shimmed will not be a problem either. Fear and the lack of understanding causes most to spend the extra money. |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 11:43am
|
If you choose to shim, Steiner's announce they were now carrying shims for those engines, just after I rebuilt mine. I couldn't find shims ANYWHERE, so I used a Dr. Pepper can... Some would probably slap me, but I got proper clearances and the tractor runs great. I would definitely recommend getting real shims, since they are now available!
|
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 11:49am
|
We also have the shims. You will get some pretty passionate answers here. Personally, I vote to re-shim. IT ran great that way for 60 years. ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 11:50am
They have always been available, I always do the rods , but I only line bored a few block's in the pass 30 years of building these motors .Turn crank ,start with new shims. ------------- He who dies with the most toys is, nonetheless ,still dead. If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED. |
CrestonM wrote:Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 11:57am
| Line-boring has always been a way to salvage a block that has spun a main bearing in a main bearing bore. Whenever you do this, the tail of the crankshaft gets raised up from true center a bit. The timing gear backlash also can get a little tighter. In a salvage effort, one can live with the negatives. When there's absolutely nothing wrong with the block, why ???????????????? |
Posted By: BlackFatbob
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 12:01pm
|
Thanks Dick, That really cuts to the heart of my concern. Will the engine tolerate the rpm and load using shims, and would line honing be a waste considering the capabilities of the lube system and eventual bearing wear regardless. I appreciate the experience and input. Think I'll shim it and go.
|
Posted By: BlackFatbob
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 12:03pm
|
The block seems fine, however this was a wet and frozen engine with at least two liners broken out. I was 0.006 low between 2 and 3 on the deck before I cut it. So the block might be slightly distorted. I can get a feel for that as I shim and always back track if needed. Thanks Doc
|
Posted By: BlackFatbob
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 12:13pm
|
Good point on the rods. This engine had at least two liners frozen and broken that I know of. So it might be smart to recondition them jic. Thanks
|
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 5:43pm
|
Check the main bearing bore alignment. They can be off enough that with proper clearance your crank can be locked when you tighten the caps. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Hubnut
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 6:15pm
|
For amateurs like myself, I found it worth the little extra cost to line bore. However, after I did my first engine rebuild with line-boring, I shimmed the next 4 engine rebuilds I did with no problems.
------------- 1940 B "Lucy" 1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia" 1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick" 1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie" 1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie" 1972 314H |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 6:21pm
| Shim stock and plastigage are real cheap, MSC, Mcmaster-car, enco, and many others sell it on line... |