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Finally got my WC, some assembly required......

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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 11:01am
Originally posted by Dan73 Dan73 wrote:

I would stick a key switch on it so you can pull the key. It will go a long way with any trouble you might find yourself in if someone takes it for a joy ride. Insurance companies and Lawyers love to ask if you left the key in it is hard to say you removed it if it doesn't have one.


I have never seen a key switch with a normally closed contact. The mag has to be grounded to not work Shocked
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeM(GA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 11:26am
Marv, here's the pics I had, along with the different versions AC used on the WC through the years. I checked with my Father-in-law and he said the one on mine was added the winter of 1944. maybe all these pics will give you some ideas

Joe




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 11:28am
But does it have an electric start with a push button or crank start. I was thinking electric start and replacing a push button with a key.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2016 at 11:35pm
I would think there has to be a key switch out there that has continuity to ground to kill the engine, maybe from a garden tractor? I will have to look around.

Most guys my age get their kicks from watching their favorite sports team win, or putting more chrome on their motorcycles, or getting a new set of golf clubs.

Me?

I get excited when the cork seal finally comes in the mail and I can trick my tractor with a sweet belt pulley! Just in case I have to run a thrashing machine or silo filler, you never know...




Its too bad. I called my local dealer, they no longer stock Agco parts. They will order them in for me still, but they used to have a pretty extensive stock for these old tractors. They recommended the next closer dealer, an additional 20 miles away. Called them, they no longer stock Agco either. I try to shop local, but its just a damn side easier to sit in my recliner and drink beer and with a few clicks of the mouse, a couple days later the parts are waiting for me when I get home from work. Got the cork seal for the pulley, Agco part #70202289 off of E-bay.

Moved up front to the steering. Popped the cover off and surprise! There is even still oil in it!



There is minimal wear on the pin that holds the worm gear on. All the slop must be in the bottom of the pedestal. I've still got a good amount of play in the steering wheel, that I'd like to minimize without completely redoing the pedestal. I know KenBWisc said he completely redid his and it sounded like it was beaucoup dollars.

Drove the old girl down the street in fourth gear and there wasn't a whole lot of wobble, but I figured I'd better check those wheel bearings. It might be awhile before I get those spoke front wheels on....

Good thing I did. Lots of rollers hit the floor.




Heres how the seal and spacer and washers were on the spindle.




I don't think this is Allis? Looks like some sort of homemade scraper? Held on with wire.



Heres some perspective on the excess play. Lined the threads of the spindle up with the bucket....




Heres how much it moves without turning the steering wheel. About
3" give or take.




So, I know theres a large key down here, how do I go about tightening this up? There is a large bolt on the bottom, and a jam bolt and lock nut a little ways up?

Looking in the manual, looks like if I take the big bolt out of the bottom and loosen the jam bolt, the spindle block will come off, and the keyway should be able to be inspected?




Thanks in advance.



Edited by littlemarv - 27 Aug 2017 at 4:07pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KenBWisc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2016 at 2:20pm
Adjust the versatile shaft bearing play by turning the large nut on the bottom of the bolster in. It may be all you need. The Service Manual explains this adjustment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2016 at 10:23pm
I must have a different service manual. Mine says to adjust the bearings with shims.

Anyways, I took the other hub off, those bearings at least stayed together.

Tried tightening the big bolt on the bottom, no go. Took the big bolt out the bottom of the spindle, theres a lockwasher and a flat washer with a dowel in it. Loosened the jam bolt, and tapped the spindle block off.

After some cleaning, found that the key looks to be in good shape, but both keyways are worn. A little wear here adds up to big play out on the end of the spindle.






You can see in the two pictures that there is about 1" of good keyway towards the top of the shaft and the spindle block. I can't see any reason why I can't push the key up into the good area and use that, because I sure am not going to pull that shaft out, weld her shut, and get the keyway recut.

So, I held the spindle block all the way up, inserted the key, pushed it up with a punch until I felt it hit the bottom of the lower bearing, and then let it down a smidge. Then tightened the jam bolt.

Play virtually gone. I suspect it may not stay that way too long, being that less than half that key is actually tight. But, for my play tractoring, it should suffice. I have a set of wheel bearings from a WD laying around, so just gotta clean up the other side and reassemble the front axle, and we should be set there.




Well, up next is the rear axle. I should replace those $50 apiece seals on each side, and replace the gaskets on the inside of the finals as well. But if I'm going to do that, I may as well get some good tires and put them on the spoke rims and get those on at the same time. I don't know how long the gorilla tape is going to keep the tube in the tire....




Its a damn shame, the tread is like new, but the sidewalls are rotten and the rims are rotted out bad around the valve stems. I just threw these on to roll it around on, so I will take them off and scrap the rims to try and recoup a couple bucks, anyways.

Thanks for looking!









Edited by littlemarv - 27 Aug 2017 at 4:37pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Aug 2016 at 5:28am
The rims can be fixed alot of posts in here about rebuilding a rim. A as to the tires that is tricky. We ran tires with big cracks for years on an ih 986 which is a 100 Hp tractor the rears where cracked right through the tire my uncle always said they where not loaded so just keep them with enough air that the crack was closed and the ties stood up. It worked for probably a decade of active farming that tractor was used everyday like that. There is also a patch you can put on the inside of a sidewall. That is very old school not sure where you could get the side wall patch but until the tractor is finished I would leave the old tires and fix the axle seals. If the tire are not loaded it is not a big deal to remove them later.
But I would hold off on new rubber till after painting for sure nothing worse then the look of over spray on you new experience rubber.

Edited by Dan73 - 30 Aug 2016 at 5:29am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alleyyooper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Aug 2016 at 6:13am
Their called tire boots. Many sizes on the market.

http://www.bellautomotive.com/Farm-Boot-Patch-4-5-inches-X-5-5-inches-p/22-5-08793-m.htm


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Clickable link...

http://www.bellautomotive.com/Farm-Boot-Patch-4-5-inches-X-5-5-inches-p/22-5-08793-m.htm

And x2 on what Dan73 said about overspray, HORRID!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Aug 2016 at 11:44am
She is coming just GREAT Ryan!!  You want another project when this one is done? Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Aug 2016 at 12:20pm
Oh, I've got two projects in mind already, and I'm not even done with this one! Just gotta decide which one I want first, or which one I stumble across first. The old brain is always going faster than the wallet!
The mechanic always wins.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BenGiBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2016 at 8:33am
Originally posted by littlemarv littlemarv wrote:

Oh, I've got two projects in mind already, and I'm not even done with this one! Just gotta decide which one I want first, or which one I stumble across first. The old brain is always going faster than the wallet!

x2 !!!! WinkBig smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 9:27pm
I bought these 12.4 X 28's cheap just to roll the tractor around on for now. When I got them, one was completely full of fluid, like someone laid it down and filled it. The other was filled to the bottom of the rim. The completely filled tire is on the right, the pretty much empty one on the left. I removed the valve stem core on the right tire and drained it down to the correct level, the top of the rim. But I want to even out the tires. I'm not going to fill them, but I'd like to even out the ballast a little.

So, I jacked up the left side and set on blocks so the tire was sitting on the floor, but not bearing any weight. Took the valve stem core out, and put the valve stem near the top. Slipped on a piece of 3/8" hose.





Jacked up the right wheel. Turned the valve stem to the top and pulled the core. Pumped the tire up to 20 psi, pulled the air chuck off, slipped the hose on going to the empty tire. Turn the wheel so the valve stem is below the fluid. The 20 psi pushes the fluid over into the other tire.




You can hear the fluid moving, and when it stops, you roll the right tire back up, remove the hose, let the pressure out of the left tire, and do it again. Did it four or five times, and got the two tires pretty close. Left a hair more in the furrow tire for plowing. Rolled the tractor outside, and rinsed everything off. It is a little messy doing it this way, but the price was right.

A while back, I got a #1 single bottom plow cheap off of Craigslist. Hauled it up to my dads, and I told him I needed to come up with the D ring for the hitch. He said wait here a minute. Came out of the shed and handed me one. I lived with the man for eighteen years and he's still pulling stuff out of that shed that I've never seen!

Well, before I even got this WC, I found a #2 14 on Craigslist. Can't pass that up, it will be perfect for this tractor. Had to weld the one handle back together, other than that, just changed all the grease zerks and greased it.



So, now I have two plows and only one hitch. Can't be having that, so I copied it.





I left that extra hitch on for now, it makes a handy step. But it will have to go if I'm going to put the toolbox back where it belongs.


SO, that's pretty much it for now. I am going to take the rig up to my dads and plow some corn stubble this fall, once the renters get it off. The way its been raining this summer, they should be able to get in the field oh, say, February or so. I figure if I haul some firewood and do a little light plowing, that should break in the motor. Need to retorque the head as well. I plan on taking off the fenders and taking them inside this winter and learn a little about body work. Finish repairing the front spoke wheels, and get some new rubber all the way around. Then, paint next year. I just am not going to get it done this fall anymore. But, I need to be sure to get this tractor painted before I start any other projects. I have enough half finished projects around to attest to that. (unless I happen to find a CA narrow front that doesn't run.....)

ANYWAYS, I want to thank everyone who was involved in this project, both on this forum and elsewhere. This project was all your guys's just about as much as mine. I hope you learned something along the way, I know I sure did. Thanks for putting up with my rambling and endless questions. This tractor restoring is addictive, that's for sure. I can't wait till my kids are a little older, I have a B-1 garden tractor sitting in the shed for their first project.

I will bring this topic back up from time to time as I work with it this fall, and work on smaller items over the winter. Then, next spring, up goes the 10' by 20' paint booth in the backyard!













Always liked the Allis Chalmers real big out front. Now I have one in the stable!



Thank you all again.

Edited by littlemarv - 27 Aug 2017 at 4:45pm
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 11:08pm
If you have extras weight on a tire for plowing, it should be the land side wheel. The tractor is tipped, shifting the center of gravity a bit right, so the right wheel won't spin as easy as the left and the left might be running in loose material like corn stalks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 7:44pm
The seat is offset to the right as well, more weight on that right wheel.
The mechanic always wins.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 11:21am
Lookin GOOD!!  Gonna bring it to Hutch next year and plow with it?!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2017 at 7:00pm
Time to drag this topic up out of the archives!
 
Fixed all the photobucket pictures. Man I take a lot.
 
I have been walking past the WC all summer. Easy to do when you hide it behind the shed.
 
Been a busy summer. Kids start school tomorrow. I think I will take a few days off up against the Labor Day Holiday and get this tractor painted!
 
I had money set aside for a brand new set of drive tires. I am  looking at $700 for a set. That's a hard pill to swallow for a tractor I'm not going to use regularly.
 
A few weeks ago, a set popped up on Craigslist.
 
Real nice Titan tires.  14.9 by 24.  $325?   SOLD.
 
 
 
 
Bought a couple of tubes, grabbed some dish soap, talcum powder, and a few tire irons.
 
Ordered four rim strips from Coker Tire and put two on each rim.
 
 
 
 These are the biggest tires I have ever tackled, went pretty well. But tire work is still bull work no matter how easy it goes. Tried Ted's trick of blowing up the tubes to fill the tire so you don't pinch the tube, worked well.
 
 
So, I was going to leave them deflated until after I painted them to make sure I got as much of  the rim as possible, but someone cautioned me that rolling them around off the bead could tear the tubes, so I went ahead and seated them.  Splashed some more dish soap around the beads, ran a hose out in to the driveway, clipped on an air chuck, and pumped them up to 16 psi. I don't know if there is much danger in inflating tires like these, but I'm trying to avoid learning the hard way.
 
 
 
A while back, there was discussion about the correct color of  WC spoke wheels. I think this 1936, serial # 23065, they should be black. But I decided awhile ago that I like orange spoke wheels better. Now that I see them mounted on black rims, I am undecided. Guess I will have to do some Leinenkugel meditation on this one...
 
 
On to the fronts. I repaired the holes in them as best I could with the welder and smoothed them out as best I could,  but the sandblaster made some more. The insides of the rims are quite rough.
 
 
 
 
I managed to find  some rim flaps from 16" split rims. They fit perfect, just require some trimming. They should keep the inner tubes healthy.
 
 
 
 
 
So, I cut an inch off either side. Here is a question for the tire experts- Do I trim 1" more off each side to stay away from the bead area, or will they work as they are? I'd really like to have as much rim covered as possible.
 
 
 
Wire wheeled around all the holes. Mixed up a fresh batch of JB Kwik, I've had really good luck with this stuff. If you work with it while it cures, you can shape it pretty good and eliminate a lot of sanding.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 More to come....
 
 
 


Edited by littlemarv - 27 Aug 2017 at 7:03pm
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Oh yeah, remember the gorilla tape on the tire? Last fall I drove around on it for quite awhile, no problem. The first time I dropped the two bottom plow in the ground, the tire went around twice and sploosh! I deposited a whole tires worth of calcium chloride in the renters field. Didn't charge him for it though. Just threw on a spare tire and plowed it under.
 
 
As I was plowing, I kept having to put a little more choke on, and a little more, and a little  more.  Cleaned the carb and put an inline fuel filter in (yes its for gravity system) but it still did the same thing. I don't think I cleaned the tank good enough. I ran a quart of gas out the drain of the carburetor, I thought the flow was O.K., it filled a quart jar and didn't taper off.
 
 
The crud was just a swirling in the sediment bowl while I filled the jar.
 
 
After I let the jar sit for a day, there was really fine rust all over the bottom of the jar. So the crap is getting past the sediment bowl and the filter I added.
 
So, I popped the tank off and tried my hand at electrolysis. Really a neat process.
 
 
 
 
Thanks for looking.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The mechanic always wins.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote macvette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2017 at 9:25pm
You do great work. Stuff I can only wish I was capable of.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2017 at 7:37pm
Marv. I noticed one of the wheel seals had been put in bass ackards. Did you catch it? If you have a bearing come apart but the cage, race, and cup are good just put all the bearings back in the cage and place it on a block of wood. They can be held in place with a good coat of grease. Place the race into the cage and bearings and put a block of wood on it. Give it a good smacking with a 4# hammer. Time to put'er back together and forget it.
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Marv, you  work  is  just  great, we've talked over the years  and i haven't  kept up lately.  
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Rigged up a temporary gas tank, to run her into the paint booth.
 
 
 
 
 
 
But, mother nature had other ideas, and went ahead and removed the paint booth from over the tractor.
 
 
 
 
Boy, that ticks me off. Second project in a row where I set up the paint booth and the  same day, the wind picks up and disassembles it for me.  Its not much, the pipes just slip together, so it doesn't take much for it to come apart.
 
 
Anyways, got it set back up, and hung some lights in it.
 
 
 
 
This tractor is going to be used as much as possible, so I can't justify a complete "every nut and bolt" restoration. My plan is to take off the tank, hood, radiator, manifold, and mag to clean and prep, and then paint.
 
Started taking pieces off...
 
 
The mechanic always wins.

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Great story so far, and it certainly has changed my perspective on how bad a tractor can be to restore back to completely operational again. I can't wait to see it back in Persian Orange. Your son being involved is a great thing too, I was lucky enough to be introduced to the hobby by my grandfather and some of my fondest memories of him are up to my elbows in dirt and grease helping restore tractors!
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You are doing great!!  And remember in the factory they didn't have a fancy spray booth and they painted the tractor almost completely assembled so I'll bet yours will be much better than when it left the factory.Thumbs Up
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Finished disassembly,
 
 
 
 
 
Changed the big seals on the rear hubs,
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
A pretty greasy job, that's for sure. Swapped in a freshly rebuilt shift tower to replace my worn out one, and removed the cultivator lift. I took the lift off because I don't have any cultivators for it, but I will keep it on hand, cause you never know...
 
 
Scraped gunk with a putty knife, then brake kleen and a wire brush, then pressure washed it.
 
 
 
Then, soaked it in oven cleaner,
 
 
 
Let it sit for a half hour, and pressure washed it again.
 
 
 
 
That really makes a difference!  I think it actually strips away the top layer of paint. Sure cleaned off the underside of the hood. 
 
 
 
 
Anyways, if any grease and gunk survived all that, it should be good enough to hold paint, as far as I'm concerned.
 
 
Fixed the filler neck on the fuel tank, we will see if JB weld holds up to gas or not.
 
 
 
 
Went to Carquest (now Advance Auto) and picked up the paint. I've tried paint from work, where you mix paint and hardener and softener and reducer and enlarger and all that other junk, thought I would try a little simpler method this time. Paint and activator 3 to 1 and done. Direct to metal, so no fussing with primer.
 
 
 
 
So, as the weather is supposed to improve over the next two days, we are looking at sanding tomorrow and painting the day after that. Wish me luck!
The mechanic always wins.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alleyyooper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2017 at 7:17pm
I my self would not skip the primer a much cheaper way to fill small pits that the final coat.


Big smile  Al

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alleyyooper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2017 at 7:18pm
I myself would not skip the primer. A much cheaper way to fill tiny pits than the final coat.

Big smile  Al


Edited by alleyyooper - 06 Sep 2017 at 7:19pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 5:15am
WOW!!  She's really coming together!!  Yep, you've got the disease.......
I wonder if that JB Weld will hold up to gasoline?  I don't have any faith in glues for that sort of thing, but I can always learn.  Let me (us) know how it is after about a year.  LOLLOL
As if anyone can remember that far ahead!Ouch Clap Cry Wink Wink Wink
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19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tractorhead9542 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 6:14am
Let me know if you come up short on parts for that. I have a few laying in the weeds that look just like that one!
The road to nowhere...leads to me
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BenGiBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2017 at 7:24am
I think that your JB weld will be fine, I fixed a couple of pin-hole leaks in the bottom of the tank on my B a year or so ago and it is still holding up fine, no leaking yet. 
You are doing a good job, I am enjoying reading along. Thanks for all the pictures!
'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
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