Engine options....

I know I'm beating a dead horse here but I can't make up my mind....I run my WC from 3500-5000 and sometimes 5500# classes. 13.6x38's. Just running a 226 now. I need more snot. I have the major components for a 240 or 260 including a custom cam that will work for either or do I want to go bigger? Talked to a guy with a 398 in his unstyled and he said under 4500 you can't even start to use your power without spinning out. What's the hp range for a 240 or 260? Without a stroker crank what's my best bang for my buck? My setup couldn't be better but I'm very lacking in grunt and being competitive is alot more fun than being last lol

Learning from guys that beat up on me, they typically pull a much higher gear (They have the power/Torque for it), low rev it it until near the end and then roll on the coal as the tires slip to maintain the speed limit

That is my goal with my 17. I want to use 2nd high and lug it.

Benny. You can check out videos of mine at Beers & Gears Pulling team on facebook. I have 2 unstyled WC and both are running 240ci motors. One is on 13.6x36 tires and is by far the best tractor. The other is one I build 1 year ago and I am still trying to get the bugs and tuning done to it. It has 15.5x38 and that one seems to do well in the lightr classes on dirt. Heavy classes on dirt I can snuff it out at the end and I think that is mostly me needing to spend some more time on tuning the motor. I have some experimental parts on it and right not its do for a change. Also the brakes need rebuilt. But back to the subject. I usually do well and feel it is a good HP to not go out and just spin the tires like you said. They are both around 65 PTO HP. they are simply 45 cranks in the stock WC blocks and ported short head. Stock valves and one has a actual 175 cam and the other has a custom cam made close to a 175 but with some changes. They both are running flat top WC pistons as well. one has a gleaner E carb and the other is running a big carb off a MM UTB if I remember right. Helps a lot but my intake set up is what I need to modify to get a little more power. Just thought I would let you know and drop my 2 cents in.
Thanks

I pull a WC and definatley reccomend the lower rear gear even in addition to the engine work.  My second now is about the old first, and first/reverse is slow.  I run 15.5's.  A huge spot to notice the difference is loading/unloading.  Let the clutch out and go as it will creep.  Some of the guys arond here use that gear and actually pull in 3rd with a bigger engine.  As stated above, they want to basically let the engine sneak you down the track, then when you need it you have plenty of extra throttle and gear that hopefully won't break loose as quick as the low first gear will  HTH

My next question is I have a chance at a good running E engine
...not really in the budget to get the 240 done quite yet but I can get the E for 500.00....would I be better to run my 226 I have or tune up that E and run it? I could add my cam to it...I believe it's around a 175 with some adjustments made. Do some cleaning up of the head and manifold and carb...should be stout right?

Just the he said. You will gain maybe a couple HP but in stock form I don't think you will be happy. If it was me I would just play with your WD45 motor and save the 500.00 and put it towards a engine rebuild kit or custom parts. whatever you decide on. That is a good point if you decide to go real big then the E motor with the right code would be the choice to build BIG, but if your intentions is to stay smaller CI your stock block will do just fine. Like I said. It all depends on what your over all plan is in the end. Planning ahead if you decide to go bigger will save you money in the long run.