Print Page | Close Window

Engine options....

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=97931
Printed Date: 24 Nov 2024 at 8:38pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Engine options....
Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Subject: Engine options....
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 7:11am
I know I'm beating a dead horse here but I can't make up my mind....I run my WC from 3500-5000 and sometimes 5500# classes. 13.6x38's. Just running a 226 now. I need more snot. I have the major components for a 240 or 260 including a custom cam that will work for either or do I want to go bigger? Talked to a guy with a 398 in his unstyled and he said under 4500 you can't even start to use your power without spinning out. What's the hp range for a 240 or 260? Without a stroker crank what's my best bang for my buck? My setup couldn't be better but I'm very lacking in grunt and being competitive is alot more fun than being last lol

-------------
Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110



Replies:
Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 7:17am
Oh and I run 3.5mph pace altered tire (top cut)

-------------
Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 7:43am
Learning from guys that beat up on me, they typically pull a much higher gear (They have the power/Torque for it), low rev it it until near the end and then roll on the coal as the tires slip to maintain the speed limit
 


-------------
Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 7:46am
That's the problem....I have decent power until I get to the last third of the track and that 226 just don't have it. The WC with those 13.6's has a tall 1st gear.

-------------
Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 8:06am
That is my goal with my 17. I want to use 2nd high and lug it.
Right now I am limited to 1st hi/lo due to my engine power.



-------------
Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: Kip-Utah
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2014 at 9:36pm
A good 240 will hunt with your combo if...you use the 6.6:1 gears out of a RC or Hi-Crop WC rear. I do have an extra Hi-Crop rear and mentioned to Dad the other day that we should pull the gears out of that rear and sell them. Kip

-------------
HANSEN'S OLD ORANGE IRON. Showing, Pulling, & Going!!


Posted By: WCCLASON
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2014 at 8:23am
Benny. You can check out videos of mine at Beers & Gears Pulling team on facebook. I have 2 unstyled WC and both are running 240ci motors. One is on 13.6x36 tires and is by far the best tractor. The other is one I build 1 year ago and I am still trying to get the bugs and tuning done to it. It has 15.5x38 and that one seems to do well in the lightr classes on dirt. Heavy classes on dirt I can snuff it out at the end and I think that is mostly me needing to spend some more time on tuning the motor. I have some experimental parts on it and right not its do for a change. Also the brakes need rebuilt. But back to the subject. I usually do well and feel it is a good HP to not go out and just spin the tires like you said. They are both around 65 PTO HP. they are simply 45 cranks in the stock WC blocks and ported short head. Stock valves and one has a actual 175 cam and the other has a custom cam made close to a 175 but with some changes. They both are running flat top WC pistons as well. one has a gleaner E carb and the other is running a big carb off a MM UTB if I remember right. Helps a lot but my intake set up is what I need to modify to get a little more power. Just thought I would let you know and drop my 2 cents in.
Thanks


Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2014 at 8:48am
I ran a E gleaner engine with WC flat tops in it with a 175 cam degreed at 105 with the combine carb for awhile, and had power to spin out 16.9 34 up to 4500 @ 4 mph class, (with a WD), the wc is faster so its gona need a little more hollowed out engine to build torque at slower speeds. Gettin air in whatever you build is the trick, the manifold carb head set up isnt very efficient, but alterations make huge differences.
  At 360 to 400 cid, the engine wouldnt know what you was doin till 5000# class in 1st. We run 3rd alot of times in open classes now with 16.9x38 tires and still wont hurt the engine.
 
  To answer your question... a 260" engine's horsepower could range from 50 to ????. I will say... as an educated guess,,,70. With good air flow and cam timing it ought to be stout.


-------------
C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!


Posted By: Larry(OH)
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2014 at 2:09pm
I pull a WC and definatley reccomend the lower rear gear even in addition to the engine work.  My second now is about the old first, and first/reverse is slow.  I run 15.5's.  A huge spot to notice the difference is loading/unloading.  Let the clutch out and go as it will creep.  Some of the guys arond here use that gear and actually pull in 3rd with a bigger engine.  As stated above, they want to basically let the engine sneak you down the track, then when you need it you have plenty of extra throttle and gear that hopefully won't break loose as quick as the low first gear will  HTH

-------------
'40 WC puller,'50 WD puller,'50 M puller '65 770 Ollie

*ALLIS EXPRESS contact*

I can explain it to you, BUT I cannot understand it for you!!


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2014 at 4:53pm
Charlie, use low 3rd gear(4.9 MPH) instead of high 2nd (5.1 MPH). It's just a bit slower and more efficient because the hand clutch is spinning 30% slower..


Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2014 at 6:44pm
My next question is I have a chance at a good running E engine
...not really in the budget to get the 240 done quite yet but I can get the E for 500.00....would I be better to run my 226 I have or tune up that E and run it? I could add my cam to it...I believe it's around a 175 with some adjustments made. Do some cleaning up of the head and manifold and carb...should be stout right?

-------------
Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110


Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2014 at 7:09am
I dont think you will be satisified with the (STOCK) E engine. It's a lil more power, but if building I like the center thrust of the E. If the engine has the "Z" code in the S/N, its the strongest, the "M" is a D17 engine.

-------------
C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!


Posted By: WCCLASON
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2014 at 7:58am
Just the he said. You will gain maybe a couple HP but in stock form I don't think you will be happy. If it was me I would just play with your WD45 motor and save the 500.00 and put it towards a engine rebuild kit or custom parts. whatever you decide on. That is a good point if you decide to go real big then the E motor with the right code would be the choice to build BIG, but if your intentions is to stay smaller CI your stock block will do just fine. Like I said. It all depends on what your over all plan is in the end. Planning ahead if you decide to go bigger will save you money in the long run.


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2014 at 3:45pm
Are there any (internal) differences in the E engine or head from the tractor engine? What is the difference)other than pistons?



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net