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D17 running rough

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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 14 Feb 2020 at 12:44pm
I bought a d17 last year and used it only to cut hay 1 time.
It ran great until the day I went to use it( when I filled tank up full) I think this washed out what I later dug out of the carb sediment bowl filter what looked like to me was a spider nest ( maybe in upper part of tank) which made it run terrible until I stopped and found it.
My question is, what is the best method to clean everything out so I know the entire fuel system is good this coming year?
Any tips are appreciated, thanks Matt
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TimNearFortWorth View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb 2020 at 6:49pm
I have had good luck by siphoning all but maybe 1-1/2 to 2 gallons out, then pull the bowl/petcock assy. completely out and let her drain.
Have found some over the years where the standpipe in the assy. was entirely gone including one found loose inside the tank and some that were corroded partially away or restricted by crud including Stabil fuel treatment.
If it still has the standpipe, crud usually settles in that last inch below the top of same and gets stirred up when filled/ran as it sloshes it around.
A clean bucket with a large mouth funnel and a paint filterwill show you what was in there and you may have to bung it off and repeat with a couple gallons to get more out unless you want to remove the tank entirely.
Removing the tank may be needed if you have chunks of the old cork floating around that are too big to come through the bottom pipe thread port.
How does the tank look inside with a flashlight?
17's use the larger bowl and NAPA has a pleated filter that fits inside the larger bowl nicely.
Sounds like your carb needs to come off for cleaning/rebuild also?
Rigging up a temporary tank off a lawnmower is what I use when they show up with a tank looking nasty, just to check carb status.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb 2020 at 8:12pm
I have had good results on small engine fuel tanks with filling them with pour in the tank injector cleaner and letting them sit overnight. For a tractor tank a handful of roofing nails with enough cleaner to get half an inch in the bottom and put it in the back of your truck for a few days. The sloshing around will break up bad fuel deposits so you can rinse them out.
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2020 at 4:28pm
Well I found part of the problem today.
There were a couple spiders in the bottom of the gas tank looking in with a flashlight so I decided to pull the bowl/ assembly off after draining all the gas and I found a ladybug jamdown inside of the assembly that the glass bowl clamps onto and was clogging/ restricting gas flow.
I figured that I had found the reason that it was running so rough, after putting it all back together it starts right up with the choke on but stalls within 10 seconds unless you keep pushing on the choke then it will continue to run but not the greatest...
I pulled the carburetor off and plan to go through it and see if there are any obvious problems and give it a good cleaning.
There's probably a good reason why when you push the choke it continues to run that I'm unaware of...
Any ideas?(before I filled the entire tank up with gas when I bought this tractor it ran great, so I'm guessing when I filled it and sloshed gas around it dislodged a lot of stuff and got into the carburetor)
Thanks Matt πŸ‘

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 21 Mar 2020 at 4:29pm
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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2020 at 4:35pm
hmm... PULLING the choke knob should put choke ON, PUSHING should shut it off.
at least that's how all 3 of my D-14s work....


pull to start, push to run.....

Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2020 at 4:52pm
It's on a spring return ( let go of knob, choke off)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2020 at 5:33pm
My choke is not spring loaded. Back is to choke, forward is off choke. May want to check fuel flow again through the sediment bowl assembly. stirring up the tank may have made some other items float into the neck of the sediment bowl assembly too.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2020 at 6:06pm
Does anyone know how the little critters get into a tank-provided the cap was always on ?? Seems like they can get anywhere :-(
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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2020 at 6:07pm
My guess is they're in the spout of the gas can when you dump gas in they get flushed in and drowned...
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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2020 at 6:09pm
I'm wondering if mine is spring loaded because of the exterior spring someone has added to it because they had problems with the choke somehow staying on? When I disassembled it there was a funky looking spring attached to the arm of the carburetor so that it has tension on it all the time...
I did check that everything was cleaned out after I found the lady bug and spiders in it and I also flush the tank out and looked in it to make sure there was nothing left...
I almost have to believe that something is in one of the needle seats in the carburetor or particles have something plugged off has anyone seen because it ran fine when I bought it but only started this running rough after I filled the tank all the way full and it's sloshed around and got plugged with ladybugs and spiders...

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 21 Mar 2020 at 6:21pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2020 at 6:16pm
Our choke cables were/are a "friction" type deal, in fact, the 180 is somewhat a "tug" to pull out. Seems like the WD was spring loaded though ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2020 at 6:26pm
My uneducated no data behind it guess, is that most were not spring loaded from the factory but someone may have added the spring to avoid the choke being left on? That being said. The choke on my Ford Jubilee is spring loaded and if cold I have to put a clip on it to keep it running for a while till it warms up. Most of the Allis tractors I have played with WD series mostly did not have a spring on the choke.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2020 at 6:51pm
here's my ladybug where I found it( it's yellow) d**!? I thought for sure once I find it along with 2 spiders that I'd reassemble and be running great again but now I'll dig into the carb.
I'm wondering if I'll need a carb kit( not sure what make/ model of carb it is yet)
I know my "b" is a marvel s.)
Any info is appreciated πŸ‘
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2020 at 6:55pm
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

My uneducated no data behind it guess, is that most were not spring loaded from the factory but someone may have added the spring to avoid the choke being left on? That being said. The choke on my Ford Jubilee is spring loaded and if cold I have to put a clip on it to keep it running for a while till it warms up. Most of the Allis tractors I have played with WD series mostly did not have a spring on the choke.
Regards,
Β Chris

Parts Book lists #70210742 as the choke return spring. We had a clip to hold the choke rod 1/2 out during warm-up as the spring would pull the rod back :-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2020 at 8:53pm
I'll take some pictures and post them of carb tomorrow maybe...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keith M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2020 at 9:19pm
My WD-45 does Not have a spring on the choke and never did. Mine got to where I had to pull choke out to keep it running while raking hay last fall. Rebuilt the carburetor and she ran fine pulling the grain elevator. So in guessing you need carburetor kit put in. Just guessing mind you.   Duh I just realized this was D-17 post. My D-17 is a diesel so idk about cable πŸ™€

Edited by Keith M - 21 Mar 2020 at 9:50pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2020 at 6:01am
No cable on mine it's a rod(1959)ok thanks
Anyone know what carb kit I'll need?
And yup, have no idea why this changed to a wd45 talk( header says d17)πŸ€ͺ

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 22 Mar 2020 at 6:04am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave(inMA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2020 at 8:12am
Your carb could have jets partially blocked from particles that came along with the ladybug! Take it apart, remove all the jets and clean with carb cleaner and compressed air - maybe a couple of times. Same thing with all the passageways in the carb body. And the fuel line and float valve in the carb. All it takes is a tiny bit of crud in the carb to really mess with how it performs. If necessary, rinse and repeat.
WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2020 at 8:14am
Yep, probably doing starting in a bit so I'll see what I find.
I need to clean about a quarter inch of crud off the outside just to hopefully be able to see what brand it is then I can maybe get a model number from it also...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2020 at 8:35am
My D17 has a zienith carb, and seems to run fine with it. I like the Marvel carbs better for some reason. Just used to them I guess. Your tractor may have a Marverl TSX464. Look for the small brass plate riveted on under the flange area. I liked the kit I got from Sandy Lake when i did a 464 carb refurb this winter.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2020 at 8:49am
Ok thanks, I'll look for it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2020 at 8:54am
It looks to be a TSX 773 with a number 59 under the TSX part and number three under the seven seven three part here's 2 pictures of my carb off d17.

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 22 Mar 2020 at 9:03am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2020 at 5:05am
I bought a carb rebuild kit just incase after I open it up I think I need new parts, on my time off work...
More to come.
Thanks Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2020 at 9:25am
Matt,
You will need some of those parts in the kit. I used all the new parts and put the old ones away for spares.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2020 at 10:07am
Right, gaskets and other stuff I'm sure.
I'm cleaning up the outside in a parts cleaner now...
Thanks Matt πŸ‘
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2020 at 8:20am
I'm really hoping it's a issue with carb and not the gov or something else, but it seams like it should be b/c all this issue started after I filled tank completely and drove 200 yrds.before that tractor had no issue with running although now that I'm thinking back when I initially test drove it it was sputtering under load of a hill at owners place where I bought itπŸ™„.but this is completely different in the fact that now I found the orifices blocked completely by a ladybug and spiders( got that taken care of last weekend) and even after all that cleaned out including the tank itself it would only stay idling when I pushed the choke lever every 10 seconds or so and if I let it go more than that it stalled...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2020 at 8:41am
Originally posted by Hunt4Allis Hunt4Allis wrote:

here's 2 pictures of my carb off d17.

 If you are using a rubber gas line between the sediment bowl and the carb, that may be adding to your problems. They can look fine on the outside, but start breaking down internally and fill little holes in the jets with pieces of rotted rubber.
 I know it's the easy way, with rubber hose, but the original steel lines worked fine for decades and are still the best way to go IMO.
 I had the neighbors 770 Oliver here some years ago and it would run fine for maybe a couple minutes, maybe 5 or more, then die like you shut the key off. I kept thinking the coil or condenser was bad. Come to find out, there were about a dozen of those stinking 'Asian' lady bugs in the tank. They must be able to skinny in thru the gas cap somehow,, when looking for a winter home.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 25 Mar 2020 at 8:44am
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2020 at 9:59am
I know, it's on my list to do( came this way last year when I bought it)
I'm not sure if there's a premade one I can buy or not?
Either through the crevices on cap or follow my thought here...
Spiders catch them and retreat into the neck of you gas cans which in my case would explain why I found 2 spiders and Asian lady bugs in tank.you are putting all of it into your tanks inadvertently.
It has made me check all my gas/ fuel necks before I use them( which I never thought of this before my findings in my d17 tank/bowl assembly and possibly the carberator ( I'll update this post after I clean carb out)
Thanks Matt

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 25 Mar 2020 at 11:12am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2020 at 11:20am

Just cleaning the years of gunk off the outside, inside and rebuild to come.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2020 at 6:03pm
Originally posted by Hunt4Allis Hunt4Allis wrote:


Just cleaning the years of gunk off the outside, inside and rebuild to come.
Just out of curiosity, if  the exterior of your 'carb looks like that, what does the rest of the block look like Geek ? That thing is a disaster externally IMO.
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