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TexasAllis 
Silver Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Texas
Points: 396
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 Topic: D-17 gas head
Posted: 08 Apr 2011 at 10:16am |
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Does anyone have a drawing (cutaway) of a D-17 gas head that shows the location of the water passages?
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walters444
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Joined: 05 Apr 2011
Location: chapin
Points: 17
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Posted: 08 Apr 2011 at 5:50pm |
no pic.,,,,, but i might be able to help
whats up????????
Chapin Cylinder Head and Block 217-472-3333
GIVE US A RING
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mlpankey
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
Points: 4580
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Posted: 09 Apr 2011 at 9:03am |
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if your thinking on porting and wanting to know where the water is . the two places i usually hit it first at are at the bottm about a half inch in . At the top were the intake port tees or turns toward the intake valve. Belzona 111 supermetal is your friend when doing port work on a 50 yearold porous cast iron head. some heads due to sand pits and rust over there life have real thin areas.
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TexasAllis
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Texas
Points: 396
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Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 7:28am |
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I was thinking about building a spit manifold out of header pipe. There are not many holes in the head to bolt a manifold to so I wanted to know if I drilled additional holes where can I drill and not hit water.
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Steve M C/IL
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Joined: 01 Jul 2010
Location: shelbyville IL
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Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 11:31am |
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Most if not all the current manifold studs go into the water jacket.....what's a couple more?
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wi50
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Joined: 24 Sep 2010
Location: weegieland
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Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 12:05pm |
 just stay away from the ports a bit, but you won't be able to drill and put a bolt that close anyway.
I've added some manifold studs for header plates in several of the 201-226 type heads and never had a problem. I've added extra holes around the intakes to hold a seperate fabricated intake manifold. On one head I even put a couple holes out past the end exhaust ports for a bit of extra clamping.
here's an old pic of a manifold I made
Edited by wi50 - 11 Apr 2011 at 12:09pm
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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TexasAllis
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Texas
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Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 7:29am |
 wi50 wrote:
just stay away from the ports a bit, but you won't be able to drill and put a bolt that close anyway.
I've added some manifold studs for header plates in several of the 201-226 type heads and never had a problem. I've added extra holes around the intakes to hold a seperate fabricated intake manifold. On one head I even put a couple holes out past the end exhaust ports for a bit of extra clamping.
here's an old pic of a manifold I made |
Now thats what I am talking about. A little more modifications than what I have planned but I like it.
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KGood
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
Location: Logansport,IN
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Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 9:01am |
Do you guys bevel out were the spark plug goes so it's not such a sharp hole sunk in the head(on the compression side). We do just because a guy told us we need to. It kinda makes sense to do that but I wondered if that was normal practice? The guys at Rochester head shop drilled into two water passages for putting in bigger valves before they realized it. It was on a short head all they said was sorry we need a different one.
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wi50
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Location: weegieland
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Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 10:15am |
tx allis,
you can see the studs I installed out past the end exhaust ports in that head if you look close in the picture you see a shiny stud in the end.
Kgood,
I flare the plug pockets some, it should help get the flame traveling a little easier, but alwayse wait untill the valve work has been done, sometimes they can get pretty close to the plug pockets.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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