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sks72107 
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Joined: 30 Sep 2010
Location: Logansport, IN
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 Topic: D17 226 rebuilding
Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 11:27am |
Well its been a long haul on the ol D. I have got a replacement crank, had cam bearings replaced, and block boiled and checked out. Well i thought it would be a simple re-ring and go after all that. But, unfortunately my hone showed otherwise in the cylinders. Looks as if there is some "low" spots in the cylinders. I really dont want to take a chance of the rings not seating properly. So i guess its time for a sleeve/piston kit, which is why i have come to you good folks. What company has the best deals on rebuild kits? Should i go with a 4 1/8" kit?? May take it to the occasional antique pull. I already purchased new stock size rings, perhaps ill sell them ($50) as my kit will probably come with rings. Im deffinately not opposed to more power. Thanks.
Shannon
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firebrick43
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Joined: 10 Dec 2009
Location: Warren County
Points: 592
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Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 11:31am |
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Its my understand if you want more power you need an AGCO 170/175 kit for the higher compression that todays fuels have no trouble with.
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mlpankey
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
Points: 4580
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Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 12:47pm |
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I dont know of a good kit . I will offer two power secrets. 1 the bigger the bore the more air a piston can draw through the head .2 compression makes hp. 3 is at the bottom my page.
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sks72107
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Joined: 30 Sep 2010
Location: Logansport, IN
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Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 12:49pm |
Also, I am curious about what any of you guros can tell me about my tractor. #d17-21312. I am assuming Series 1 or 2?? As i noticed in another topic this will have an effect on what paint i repaint the motor with. Thanks.
Shannon
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Lonn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
Points: 29773
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Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 1:41pm |
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1/8 of an inch overbore doesn't give you a whole lot. It's the higher compression from a 175 kit that will give you more bang for the buck. Unless the overbore kit is also at least 8.25:1 like a 175. I've also had more than one engine apart with overbore that has a cracked sleeve just above the o-ring area. Others here will argue against what I said as if I'm making it up. It's up to you what you want to do. I've never seen a cracked sleeve with a standard bore engine no matter if it's got 175 pistons or WD. The 175 sleeves cool better than a WD or D17 sleeve too.
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mlpankey
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
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Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 1:43pm |
Speaking in cfms for air 1/8 inch bore does quiet a bit. more air requires more fuel to keep the stoich correct more air/fuel = more btus = more kw which = more hp
According to M@W the 1/8 inch over bore at basically the same cr was worth 6 hp. My calculation show that from 7 .1 cr to 8.5 cr on the same bore is just a 6 percent increase. 3 more hp. So do both and gain 9 hp.
Edited by mlpankey - 05 Nov 2010 at 1:56pm
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TomMN
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elbow Lake, MN
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Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 2:44pm |
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Your S/N makes it a 1959 Series I. I'm working on one of these engines too and the concensus in another thread was to use the Agco 170 sleeve and piston kit that would give an 8 to 1 compression ratio and the cam and anything else stays the same.
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mlpankey
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Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 2:56pm |
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Computation Results:
Engine Horsepower (peak) is 52
Old Compression Ratio is 7.1
New Compression Ratio is 8.0
Computation Results:
Computed New Engine HP is 54, a 4 percent change
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ALinIL
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Joined: 20 Sep 2009
Location: Frankfort, IL
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Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 3:04pm |
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You might look at putting in a 1/8 overbore kit for a WD in it. That should be a flat top piston and the compression will be higher due to the added stroke(4 to 4 1/2). Check it out. I donot know if it will be 8.2, but might help you. - AL
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Allis Fields
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Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Location: Reedsburg,Wisc.
Points: 332
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Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 9:14pm |
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Here's a extra thing to think about. If you can find 8" long lerio rods , stock is 7.5". What lower compresion overbore kit compresion be? I remeber that m&w WD pistons on a 45 crank need the top machined off. But the aftermarket ones are probely Shorter. How about Farmall H rods And the xcrank Ofset Ground for a standard bearing?
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mlpankey
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
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Posted: 06 Nov 2010 at 7:31am |
A 8 inch rod either the lerio or the h farmall with a wd45 power crater piston will get you 13.1 or better.
Computation Results:
Engine Horsepower (peak) is 53
Old Compression Ratio is 7.2
New Compression Ratio is 13.1
Computation Results:
Computed New Engine HP is 62, a 17 percent change
Edited by mlpankey - 06 Nov 2010 at 7:37am
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mlpankey
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Location: Vols country
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Posted: 06 Nov 2010 at 7:40am |
theres not enough difference in the h rod bearing size and the allis to pick up any extra stroke at std. bearing size. I doubt you could pick up .100 extra stroke but if you could going to the h rod your cubic inches would be .
Bore: < size=10 value=4.125 name=qty1> Diameter in Inches Stroke: < size=10 value=4.6 name=qty2> Distance In Inches Head Gasket: < size=10 value=.042 name=qty20> Thickness In Inches Cylinders: < size=10 value=4 name=qty3> Number of Cylinders Cylinder Head Volume < size=10 value=80 name=qty5> Number in Cubic Centimeters
< ="densCalc ;" = value=Calculate name=calc> < = value="Clear ">
Displacement: < size=10 value=245.85195937499998 name=qty4> in Cubic Inches
Displacement: < size=10 value=4.029513614156249 name=qty8> in Cubic Liters
Compression Ratio: < size=10 value=11.29194353923751 name=qty6>
also getting the 80 ccs cylinder head volume for 11.29 would take some machining on a piston
Edited by mlpankey - 06 Nov 2010 at 7:50am
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mlpankey
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Location: Vols country
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Posted: 06 Nov 2010 at 8:40am |
either purchase a lerio 5 inch crank or have your crank stroked to 5 use the wc flat top piston on the buda 7 3/8 rod
| Head Volume (cc) |
< style=": relative" value=0 name=CHV_CC> |
Cylinder Head Vol (cubic in.) |
0.000 |
| Piston Head Volume (cc) |
< style=": relative" value=0 name=PHV_CC> |
Piston Head Vol (cubic in.) |
0.000 |
| Gasket Thickness (in.) |
< style=": relative" value=.042 name=G_Thickness> |
Swept Volume (cubic in.) |
66.820 |
| Gasket Bore (in.) |
< style=": relative" value=4.250 name=G_Bore> |
T.D.C. Volume (cubic in.) |
5.608 |
| Cylinder Bore Diameter (in.) |
< style=": relative" value=4.125 name=CB_Diam> |
Gasket Volume (cubic in.) |
0.596 |
| Deck Clearance (in.)Note: Neg. nubmer above deck, Pos. number below deck |
< style=": relative" value=.375 name=DC> |
Deck Volume (cubic in.) |
5.012 |
| Stroke (in.) |
< style=": relative" value=5 name=Stroke> |
STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO |
12.915 |
| OPTIONAL DATA |
| Rod Length (in.) |
< style=": relative" value=7.375 name=Rod_Length> |
Adjusted Stroke (in.) |
4.943 |
| Intake Closing Point (degrees)ABDC @ 0.050 lift plus 15 degrees |
< style=": relative" value=15 name=ICP> |
DYNAMIC EFFECTIVE COMPRESSION RATIO |
12.779 |
| < style=": relative" =submit value=Calculate> |
Edited by mlpankey - 06 Nov 2010 at 8:41am
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 06 Nov 2010 at 9:58am |
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You want to still farm with it and have a little more than 53 HP and use regular gas and expect it to start on a cold winter day and expect it to be easy on fuel and expect it to be reliable/long lived.....there is only one answer....a 170 OR a 175 AGCO motor kit. Be sure to set ignition timing at 25 degrees BTDC at full throttle. You will not be disappointed.
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mlpankey
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Posted: 06 Nov 2010 at 10:15am |
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reliability is always a factor in any hopup . a sniff of propane from a hand held plumbers torch usually fire off any fuel in the cold.
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sks72107
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Joined: 30 Sep 2010
Location: Logansport, IN
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Posted: 08 Nov 2010 at 6:22am |
OK Thanks all, sorry for the delayed reply; no net connection at home(I think this puts me below the poverty level). I was basically looking for some performace gains, nothing extravagant. looks like ill just go with the 170 or 175 kit. Thanks, perhaps ill post pics soon.
Shannon
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