D17 226 rebuilding

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20393
Printed Date: 10 Feb 2025 at 9:51am
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Topic: D17 226 rebuilding

Posted By: sks72107
Subject: D17 226 rebuilding
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 11:27am

Well its been a long haul on the ol D. I have got a replacement crank, had cam bearings replaced, and block boiled and checked out. Well i thought it would be a simple re-ring and go after all that. But, unfortunately my hone showed otherwise in the cylinders. Looks as if there is some "low" spots in the cylinders. I really dont want to take a chance of the rings not seating properly. So i guess its time for a sleeve/piston kit, which is why i have come to you good folks. What company has the best deals on rebuild kits? Should i go with a 4 1/8" kit?? May take it to the occasional antique pull. I already purchased new stock size rings, perhaps ill sell them ($50) as my kit will probably come with rings. Im deffinately not opposed to more power. Thanks.

Shannon

Replies:

Posted By: firebrick43
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 11:31am

Its my understand if you want more power you need an AGCO 170/175 kit for the higher compression that todays fuels have no trouble with.

Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 12:47pm

I dont know of a good kit . I will offer two power secrets. 1 the bigger the bore the more air a piston can draw through the head .2 compression makes hp. 3 is at the bottom my page.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra

Posted By: sks72107
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 12:49pm

Also, I am curious about what any of you guros can tell me about my tractor. #d17-21312. I am assuming Series 1 or 2?? As i noticed in another topic this will have an effect on what paint i repaint the motor with. Thanks.

Shannon

Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 1:41pm

1/8 of an inch overbore doesn't give you a whole lot. It's the higher compression from a 175 kit that will give you more bang for the buck. Unless the overbore kit is also at least 8.25:1 like a 175. I've also had more than one engine apart with overbore that has a cracked sleeve just above the o-ring area. Others here will argue against what I said as if I'm making it up. It's up to you what you want to do. I've never seen a cracked sleeve with a standard bore engine no matter if it's got 175 pistons or WD. The 175 sleeves cool better than a WD or D17 sleeve too.

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Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 1:43pm

Speaking in cfms for air 1/8 inch bore does quiet a bit. more air requires more fuel to keep the stoich correct more air/fuel = more btus = more kw which = more hp

According to mailto:M@W - M@W the 1/8 inch over bore at basically the same cr was worth 6 hp. My calculation show that from 7 .1 cr to 8.5 cr on the same bore is just a 6 percent increase. 3 more hp. So do both and gain 9 hp.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra

Posted By: TomMN
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 2:44pm

Your S/N makes it a 1959 Series I. I'm working on one of these engines too and the concensus in another thread was to use the Agco 170 sleeve and piston kit that would give an 8 to 1 compression ratio and the cam and anything else stays the same.

Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 2:56pm

Computation Results:

Engine Horsepower (peak) is 52

Old Compression Ratio is 7.1

New Compression Ratio is 8.0

Computation Results:

Computed New Engine HP is 54, a 4 percent change

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra

Posted By: ALinIL
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 3:04pm

You might look at putting in a 1/8 overbore kit for a WD in it. That should be a flat top piston and the compression will be higher due to the added stroke(4 to 4 1/2). Check it out. I donot know if it will be 8.2, but might help you. - AL

Posted By: Allis Fields
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2010 at 9:14pm

Here's a extra thing to think about. If you can find 8" long lerio rods , stock is 7.5". What lower compresion overbore kit compresion be? I remeber that m&w WD pistons on a 45 crank need the top machined off. But the aftermarket ones are probely Shorter. How about Farmall H rods And the xcrank Ofset Ground for a standard bearing?

Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2010 at 7:31am

A 8 inch rod either the lerio or the h farmall with a wd45 power crater piston will get you 13.1 or better.

Computation Results:

Engine Horsepower (peak) is 53

Old Compression Ratio is 7.2

New Compression Ratio is 13.1

Computation Results:

Computed New Engine HP is 62, a 17 percent change

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra

Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2010 at 7:40am

theres not enough difference in the h rod bearing size and the allis to pick up any extra stroke at std. bearing size. I doubt you could pick up .100 extra stroke but if you could going to the h rod your cubic inches would be .

Bore: < size=10 value=4.125 name=qty1> Diameter in Inches
Stroke: < size=10 value=4.6 name=qty2> Distance In Inches
Head Gasket: < size=10 value=.042 name=qty20> Thickness In Inches
Cylinders: < size=10 value=4 name=qty3> Number of Cylinders
Cylinder Head Volume < size=10 value=80 name=qty5> Number in Cubic Centimeters

< ="densCalc ;" = value=Calculate name=calc> < = value="Clear ">

Displacement:

Displacement: < size=10 value=4.029513614156249 name=qty8> in Cubic Liters

Compression Ratio: < size=10 value=11.29194353923751 name=qty6>

also getting the 80 ccs cylinder head volume for 11.29 would take some machining on a piston

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra

Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2010 at 8:40am

either purchase a lerio 5 inch crank or have your crank stroked to 5 use the wc flat top piston on the buda 7 3/8 rod

Head Volume (cc)	< style=": relative" value=0 name=CHV_CC>	Cylinder Head Vol (cubic in.)	0.000
Piston Head Volume (cc)	< style=": relative" value=0 name=PHV_CC>	Piston Head Vol (cubic in.)	0.000
Gasket Thickness (in.)	< style=": relative" value=.042 name=G_Thickness>	Swept Volume (cubic in.)	66.820
Gasket Bore (in.)	< style=": relative" value=4.250 name=G_Bore>	T.D.C. Volume (cubic in.)	5.608
Cylinder Bore Diameter (in.)	< style=": relative" value=4.125 name=CB_Diam>	Gasket Volume (cubic in.)	0.596
Deck Clearance (in.)Note: Neg. nubmer above deck, Pos. number below deck	< style=": relative" value=.375 name=DC>	Deck Volume (cubic in.)	5.012
Stroke (in.)	< style=": relative" value=5 name=Stroke>	STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO	12.915
OPTIONAL DATA
Rod Length (in.)	< style=": relative" value=7.375 name=Rod_Length>	Adjusted Stroke (in.)	4.943
Intake Closing Point (degrees)ABDC @ 0.050 lift plus 15 degrees	< style=": relative" value=15 name=ICP>	DYNAMIC EFFECTIVE COMPRESSION RATIO	12.779
< style=": relative" =submit value=Calculate>

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2010 at 9:58am

You want to still farm with it and have a little more than 53 HP and use regular gas and expect it to start on a cold winter day and expect it to be easy on fuel and expect it to be reliable/long lived.....there is only one answer....a 170 OR a 175 AGCO motor kit. Be sure to set ignition timing at 25 degrees BTDC at full throttle. You will not be disappointed.

Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2010 at 10:15am

reliability is always a factor in any hopup . a sniff of propane from a hand held plumbers torch usually fire off any fuel in the cold.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra

Posted By: sks72107
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2010 at 6:22am

OK Thanks all, sorry for the delayed reply; no net connection at home(I think this puts me below the poverty level). I was basically looking for some performace gains, nothing extravagant. looks like ill just go with the 170 or 175 kit. Thanks, perhaps ill post pics soon.

Shannon