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D-15 start push button |
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Gary
Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Peterborough,On Points: 5503 |
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Hey Myron Don't take too much notice of Stevie. He's like the little boy in the Shopping Centre we have all seen. Standing there in the Hallway, jumping up and down, screaming his head off. All just to get attention! but in Stevies case, to increase his count in Points. ........................................................... On another note relating to the Original Post. I think I have solved the reason there are so many different Posts about the Starter being on the Ignition Switch or a separate Push Button. I was able to locate an Original Allis Service Manual covering all D-14's, D-15's and D-17's. It's hard to believe but in the back of the Service Manual there are no less than 11, yes eleven, wiring diagrams (Fig.s} for the Dash Wiring: 1 for the D-14, 4 for the D-15, and 6 for the D-17. Close examination does confirm that the D-15 Ser.II does have a Keyed Ignition Switch plus a separate Push Button Switch for the Starter. What makes it confusing for me is my D-15 Ser.II does not have a Push Button Start. D-15 II started in 1963 at Serial 13,001 and my Serial is a 1966 #21803. My father bought it from the Original Owner that he sold it to, probably about 40 40 years ago. Also I did an Ebay Search for D-15 Gas Oper. Manuals and there are at least 5. Early D-15's have 2: TM 271A and TM 274. D-15 Ser.II has 3: TM 341A, TM 341B, and TM 341C. Because of so many Operators Manuals, I wouldn't place much confidence in a picture of a Dash, since I don't believe Allis identified the changes. Another example of an unusual difference: Regarding D-17 Diesels Ser.II and Ser.III Diesel had Key Start and separate Push Button Heater Ser.IV on the other hand had both combined in to the Keyed Switch. Just like my BX23 Kubota ! Gary |
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Gary
Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Peterborough,On Points: 5503 |
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Myron The photo in your most recent Post is one of the ones I looked at. It is identified as Fig. 187 Wiring Diagram Ser.II D-15 non-diesel G |
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HoughMade
Orange Level Joined: 22 Sep 2017 Location: Valparaiso, IN Points: 700 |
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Well this is an interesting thread...and my only Allis is a B.
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1951 B
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Joe(OH)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Montezuma, Ohio Points: 974 |
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I had a very original D-15 II gas that had the push button. Everyone wanted to try to crank the key like on our D-17. I don't know how many times I was told the battery was dead. So I wired a horn up to the crank position on the key switch. It was funny when someone went to start the tractor and the horn hooked!
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Life is simpler when you plow around the stump.
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Leadoff
Silver Level Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Location: Calgary Points: 276 |
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Joe(OH)
Thank-you for sharing your unique info on the D15 Series II Starter Button discussion I had a good laugh Clearly lots of passion in this thread showing the ownership we all have for our Allis Chalmers Tractors and equipment and a credit to the owners keeping the machines and memories alive
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1963 D17D Series III. 1965 D15 Series II. 1965 D17 Series IV. 1975 185. 1978 716H. 1979 716H. 1965 780 Harvester/1R&DC. 1957 Model 73 SC 4 Furrow Plow
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 4998 |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 4998 |
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Plowed snow with dad’s D15 II, serial number D15 24633. Late 1967 model. He bought it brand new in May of 1968. As you can see it is push button start.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Les Kerf
Orange Level Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 885 |
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I have never so much as even touched a D-Series Allis, but judging by the photographic and anecdotal evidence presented here, it appears that the only true FACT is that Allis-Chalmers did an exceedingly poor job of correlating what went into their documentation with what went out of the production line
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 4998 |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Gary
Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Peterborough,On Points: 5503 |
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Robbie And my 1966 Serial 21803 that my dad sold new, and then bought it back when owner retired, has Key Start. and no sign of there ever being a Button. Gary |
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 82226 |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Leadoff
Silver Level Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Location: Calgary Points: 276 |
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My D15 Series II Starter Push Button Story
My Father purchased a shiny brand new D15 II in 1967 from our local AC Dealer. It was a very popular tractor on our dairy farm, an excellent addition to our Ford 8n and D17 S1 fleet of tractors. Our D15 SII was maintained as factory OEM for its service life on the farm Fast forward to the Gathering of the Orange in Portage la Prairie, Manitoba, in 2004. My father and I were viewing a perfectly restored D15 II and shooting the breeze with the proud owner, who had transported the tractor to the show from the US. The owner asked me if I wanted to fire up the engine, and my Father encouraged me to give it a go Now I left our farm in 1978 to work in the Canadian Oil Patch, so hadn't been on a tractor for a while. I jumped on the D15, depressed the foot clutch, pressed on the brakes pedals, pushed the hand clutch lever into neutral, applied a bit of gas, a bit of choke, turned the ignition key to the "on" position, and pushed the starter button. The tractor fired right up!! The key to the story is I never broke eye contact with the owner from the time I sat down in the seat. He immediately commented that I probably had operated a D15 before. I am sure there are many Forum Members here who could do the same thing I did that day. I was very proud to "show off" to my Dad and the owner Our D15 SII and the one at the show both had the Indak Ignition key and the Starter Push Button I will never forget how to start a D15 SII |
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1963 D17D Series III. 1965 D15 Series II. 1965 D17 Series IV. 1975 185. 1978 716H. 1979 716H. 1965 780 Harvester/1R&DC. 1957 Model 73 SC 4 Furrow Plow
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SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8330 |
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I'm going with the "dead horse".....
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captaindana
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Fort Plain, NY Points: 2493 |
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Love that story Leadoff!
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Blue Skies and Tail Winds
Dana |
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Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11883 |
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As I mentioned, I've built the wiring systems both ways for our customer's. Some had a key crank switch, some had a the push button. I sell both a HD key crank switch as an option in my systems as well as a new Starter button. Ya know, anything that's mass produced, things can change during production stages. A good example is the Ford Mustang where in 1964 it was built a certain way in assembly, and yet there were some revisions or changes on the assembly line and along came the 1964 1/2 Mustang. And the parts changed. Now, when it comes to the books and what they represent, I have to agree with Gary to a certain extent. One of the main reasons why I don't sell Starter or Generator parts is because the books aren't always correct when they tell you this certain P/N was used in this certain model unit. Well, that's not always the case. I found this out back in the late 60's when I first started rebuilding. You see, back then, we didn't have "exchange" units. We ordered the internals for Starters, Generators, Carburetors, etc. and rebuilt the unit ourselves in house. We also were the "Parts Guys" too! As times progressed, it seemed more and more the books weren't accurate all the time, and I started to send parts back to the warehouse or parts store to get the correct parts to do the job. Why was that? Who knows? My thought was maybe Delco, Autolite, Prestolite or whomever was coming out with different designs to improve their product and so things didn't match up with what I had or the books said. Sometimes I would have to bring the part to the store for "show n' tell" to make sure I got the correct part. Hence, the reason I don't sell internal parts for these particular units. Its the same with wiring diagrams and prints. I've been dealing with that silly stuff since 1975 when I opened Custom Circuits. Actually, even before I opened Custom Circuits, because I was building wiring harnesses for 60's GM Cars and Trucks at that time. I have some original prints from AC that I acquired when I first got into studying and building the wiring systems on the AC Tractors and realized some of them were quite different from the diagram in the service manuals. I actually tell our customer's to go by the service manuals because they seem to be more accurate. Maybe the service manuals were printed later after production of the Tractors started. Who knows? When Jo Jo and I used to attend a lot of the GOTO shows, I remember like it was yesterday some of the older gentlemen coming up to the tables looking at my wiring systems that I had on the easels and chuckle saying to me "I worked on the assembly line at Allic-Chalmers and we used to change that wiring right on the assembly line when need be". And I would say REALLY! How did you revise those. One gentleman said: "Ah we used to just cut n' tape em' back up again when we put somethin' in when a change came down". I shook my head laughing, but I did see some of those "taped up" harnesses that came in to me to use as a pattern. Especially on the "D" series Tractors. I would ask our customer "did you change this wiring at the rear of this harness"? Most of the time the answer was "nope that's the way it was when Dad or Grandad bought it new. "We just want to restore it exactly the same."Soooo.... I guess my point is, people can argue all they want about whats right or "factory" and what's wrong, but things change all the time during production. I deal with a lot of our Muscle car customer's that are Hell bent on what is "Factory". I've talked to people that originally worked for GM on the assembly line at Willow Run, asking them about "Factory" parts and what was used for certain Hi Performance models. They would look at me like I left my other head home. Most of the time the answer was "hey fella', we had to build a certain amount of Cars a day". "I don't even know what you're talking about with this "Factory stuff". Well, that's what I kinda thought afterwards. Don't get upset at one another guys, changes happen and there's no explaination for it. Ya just gotta' move on. It is what it is......... Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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RedHeeler79
Bronze Level Joined: 09 Sep 2023 Location: NE Kansas Points: 121 |
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Well said, Steve! 👍
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Alberta Phil
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3833 |
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Might be a little harder to make those sort of changes on the line these days, as they would have to re-program the robot that was working on it at that time, or maybe those machines are now so advanced, they can think for themselves!
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BigGuy1000
Bronze Level Joined: 06 Dec 2013 Location: NWIL Points: 122 |
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Just to post the reason for the pushbutton switch instead of key switch!
The key switch was rated for only about 10 amps of current and when mistakenly put into a circuit of possibly 50 amps, such as AC175D with starter solenoid, had a short life. This was discovered after the tractor was used for some time, and was the reason for all the changes. And sometimes the (not smart) dealer tried to rewire the key switch into the the start circuit as happened to my fathers AC175D, causing many failures of the key switch! |
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Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11883 |
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Yeah, some of those key switches were borderline at best! That's why I offer a couple optional high amp Ignition switches for the "D" series. The other problem that caused a lot of issues was using those under rated key switches with 4 blade terminals on the back and running 8-9 circuits to them. In the Automotive electrical business, we call that "stacking" which is NOT recommended today. As age comes on, so does corrosion, when corrosion starts, resistance starts, and as resistance builds, then along comes heat, and once components start getting hot to where components start to melt, along comes the smoke, and you know what comes after the smoke.... Then comes the fire extinguisher! Steve@B&B |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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