YES, you can check continuity, and that NORMALLY works... MIght be a good time to buy new..

Just checked my IT- AC201 manual ... yep, thats what it shows

The schematic I have for the gas model shows the push button.  Was just trying to get rid of the dinky loose key problem and make it like original.  I assume if the button was original, the keyed ignition would not have a start position, but??

Gary, Series 1 D15s did not use a push button start.  It used the same Delco Remy switch used on the D14s. 

Early series 2s continued to use the same Delco Remy switch PLUS the addition of a push button starter switch.  Later Series 2s went to an Indak key switch with a push button starter switch.

Original D15s:

Series 1 gas...

63, 64 Series 2 (I restored my neighbor's 1 owner all original 64)

My 66 D15 Series 2 ...

edmo wrote: Trying to put a few things back in place with my 1964 D-15, II series.  think someone by passed the push button starter switch when replacing the key switch.  can i test the  button switch with simple continuity test or does it have to meet an amp rating?

A continuity test can determine if the switch works.  It is just an on/off device.  New switches are available and pretty cheap, I would just change it out if I had any doubts about it.

I remember when I first started getting into the "D" series Tractors building the wiring systems, some of the same models had a key, some had a button. Didn't matter what series. Now, some could've been changed over as the years progressed. After a while it started driving me crazy, so I always asked the customer which starting system their Tractor had. The wiring along with the key switch is a little different from one another. And that Garden Tractor key switch AC was usin' for a while wasn't nothin' ta' write home to Mom about either!... 

Steve@B&B

Gary, the original operator's manual that came with my 66 D15 shows a "starting switch" on a picture of the dash as well as a "starter switch" in the wiring diagram.  It is part number 70253322 in the AGCO parts book website.

I am betting the Allis Chalmers Legal Department influenced the decision to move towards the Push Button design for starting the engine.  It forces the operator to really want to start the tractor, and think before hitting the button.  Is it in gear?  Have you engaged the clutch? etc  Brakes? PTO

Many industrial equipment in Plants have a similar setup switch on/off momentary push button for basic safety to start operations.  AC Industrial Division might have had some input - who knows

The redesign of the top of the Power Director/Hand Clutch with the Guard to minimize accidental depression of the release button comes to mind (apparently after an unfortunate accident)

My 1965 D15 II, 1965 D17 IV, and 185 have the push button.  

My 1963 D17D III (purchased used from local AC Dealer) had the old style S1 switch to start, with the push button wired to engage the manifold heater!!  I rewired it to be the same as the 185, switch off-on-heater, push button start

  Gary, look up p/n 239346 it replace p/n 229855 use prior to sn# 9001. In my master numerical index book ( June of 1969) p/n 229855 to use p/n 239346- cap assy 2cp, h3,hd3,d14,d15,d17,170,180,190 p/n 253322 switch assy H3,HD3,D15. D17,170,180,190 HTH.

The FACTS are that aa dozen people have said they have a Series II with a push button... Photos from the service manual SHOW the button.. Prints from the manual ( and IT ) SHOW the button in the drawing.. ITs OBVIOUS.. IT HAD A PUSH BUTTON.. SO WHAT.. WHY ARGUE ? .... Just say "OK, MY MISTAKE... some came with a button "...

But you INSIST that YOU CASNT BE WRONG..

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and IN THE ORIGINAL POST i NEVER SAID the button was ORIGINAL... The OP said he had a tractor with a button and wanted to know how to wire it up... SO WHAT... I really dont care WHAT YOU THINK...The question was how to wire a BUTTON..

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Look at the wiring diagram people!  A white wire goes from the push button switch to the solenoid mounted on the starter!  Nowhere do you see a solenoid for the manifold heater that is found on the 2000 diesel models - the operator's manual for the D15 diesel does show that.

If you want to question original Allis drawings, feel free.  I follow them.  Why do the majority of D15s I see at shows have a push button for the starter?  Is it a conspiracy?  I don't think so.

steve(ill) wrote: Yes there were over 2,000 D-15's that left the Factory with that rubber capped Push Button. But they were all Diesel's YEP... there are HUNDREDS of tractors out there and THOUSANDS of BOOKS... and YOU HAVE THE ONLY ONE THAT IS CORRECT !!.... Even tho a DOZEN PEOPLE said they have the button on their ORIGINAL D15  II ...... This is the definition of TERDISM.. NEVER being able to say you made a mistake.....I know your EGO needs the last comment, so go ahead.. im done with your ignorance.

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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080

Thank-you for sharing your unique info on the D15 Series II Starter Button discussion

I had a good laugh

Clearly lots of passion in this thread showing the ownership we all have for our Allis Chalmers Tractors and equipment and a credit to the owners keeping the machines and memories alive 

I have never so much as even touched a D-Series Allis, but judging by the photographic and anecdotal evidence presented here, it appears that the only true FACT is that Allis-Chalmers did an exceedingly poor job of correlating what went into their documentation with what went out of the production line

My Father purchased a shiny brand new D15 II in 1967 from our local AC Dealer.  It was a very popular tractor on our dairy farm, an excellent addition to our Ford 8n and D17 S1 fleet of tractors.  Our D15 SII was maintained as factory OEM for its service life on the farm

Fast forward to the Gathering of the Orange in Portage la Prairie, Manitoba, in 2004.  My father and I were viewing a perfectly restored D15 II and shooting the breeze with the proud owner, who had transported the tractor to the show from the US.  The owner asked me if I wanted to fire up the engine, and my Father encouraged me to give it a go

Now I left our farm in 1978 to work in the Canadian Oil Patch, so hadn't been on a tractor for a while.  I jumped on the D15, depressed the foot clutch, pressed on the brakes pedals, pushed the hand clutch lever into neutral, applied a bit of gas, a bit of choke, turned the ignition key to the "on" position, and pushed the starter button.  The tractor fired right up!!

The key to the story is I never broke eye contact with the owner from the time I sat down in the seat.  He immediately commented that I probably had operated a D15 before.

I am sure there are many Forum Members here who could do the same thing I did that day. I was very proud to "show off" to my Dad and the owner

Our D15 SII and the one at the show both had the Indak Ignition key and the Starter Push Button

I will never forget how to start a D15 SII

As I mentioned, I've built the wiring systems both ways for our customer's. Some had a key crank switch, some had a the push button. I sell both a HD key crank switch as an option in my systems as well as a new Starter button. Ya know, anything that's mass produced, things can change during production stages. A good example is the Ford Mustang where in 1964 it was built a certain way in assembly, and yet there were some revisions or changes on the assembly line and along came the 1964 1/2 Mustang. And the parts changed.

Now, when it comes to the books and what they represent, I have to agree with Gary to a certain extent. One of the main reasons why I don't sell Starter or Generator parts is because the books aren't always correct when they tell you this certain P/N was used in this certain model unit. Well, that's not always the case. I found this out back in the late 60's when I first started rebuilding. You see, back then, we didn't have "exchange" units.  We ordered the internals for Starters, Generators, Carburetors, etc. and rebuilt the unit ourselves in house. We also were the "Parts Guys" too! As times progressed, it seemed more and more the books weren't accurate all the time, and I started to send parts back to the warehouse or parts store to get the correct parts to do the job. Why was that? Who knows? My thought was maybe Delco, Autolite, Prestolite or whomever was coming out with different designs to improve their product and so things didn't match up with what I had or the books said. Sometimes I would have to bring the part to the store for "show n' tell" to make sure I got the correct part. Hence, the reason I don't sell internal parts for these particular units.

Its the same with wiring diagrams and prints. I've been dealing with that silly stuff since 1975 when I opened Custom Circuits. Actually, even before I opened Custom Circuits, because I was building wiring harnesses for 60's GM Cars and Trucks at that time. I have some original prints from AC that I acquired when I first got into studying and building the wiring systems on the AC Tractors and realized some of them were quite different from the diagram in the service manuals. I actually tell our customer's to go by the service manuals because they seem to be more accurate. Maybe the service manuals were printed later after production of the Tractors started. Who knows? When Jo Jo and I used to attend a lot of the GOTO shows, I remember like it was yesterday some of the older gentlemen coming up to the tables looking at my wiring systems that I had on the easels and chuckle saying to me "I worked on the assembly line at Allic-Chalmers and we used to change that wiring right on the assembly line when need be". And I would say REALLY! How did you revise those. One gentleman said: "Ah we used to just cut n' tape em' back up again when we put somethin' in when a change came down". I shook my head laughing, but I did see some of those "taped up" harnesses that came in to me to use as a pattern. Especially on the "D" series Tractors. I would ask our customer "did you change this wiring at the rear of this harness"? Most of the time the answer was "nope that's the way it was when Dad or Grandad bought it new. "We just want to restore it exactly the same."Soooo.... I guess my point is, people can argue all they want about whats right or "factory" and what's wrong, but things change all the time during production. I deal with a lot of our Muscle car customer's that are Hell bent on what is "Factory". I've talked to people that originally worked for GM on the assembly line at Willow Run, asking them about "Factory" parts and what was used for certain Hi Performance models. They would look at me like I left my other head home. Most of the time the answer was "hey fella', we had to build a certain amount of Cars a day". "I don't even know what you're talking about with this "Factory stuff". Well, that's what I kinda thought afterwards. Don't get upset at one another guys, changes happen and there's no explaination for it. Ya just gotta' move on. It is what it is......... 

Steve@B&B

The key switch was rated for only about 10 amps of current and when mistakenly put into a circuit of possibly 50 amps, such as AC175D with starter solenoid, had a short life. This was discovered after the tractor was used for some time, and was the reason for all the changes.   

And sometimes the (not smart) dealer tried to rewire the key switch into the the start circuit as happened to my fathers AC175D, causing many failures of the key switch!

Yeah, some of those key switches were borderline at best! That's why I offer  a couple optional high amp Ignition switches for the "D" series. The other problem that caused a lot of issues was using those under rated key switches with 4 blade terminals on the back and running 8-9 circuits to them. In the Automotive electrical business, we call that "stacking" which is NOT recommended today. As age comes on, so does corrosion, when corrosion starts, resistance starts, and as resistance builds,  then along comes heat, and once components start getting hot to where components start to melt, along comes the smoke, and you know what comes after the smoke....     Then comes the fire extinguisher! 

Steve@B&B