D15 Revival

Been following your post as I have a D 15 I'm working on . Wonder what kinda seat you got ? Mine is very sad . Glad you are making progress .

Pan seat is gone . Previous owner put a ratty lawnmower seat on .

Tracy Martin TN wrote:

The pin needs to be longer. I would use a cylinder shaft rod, hard on outside with soft center core. You can weld a bolt to bushing to get it out with slap hammer. McMaster Carr has the shafting. HTH Tracy

Do you have a link to the exact shafting you describe? I've been to the MC site and a guy could get lost in there for days.

And there was a lot of discussion about making the pin longer than the original and replacement pin, as it needs to be longer to ride along the full length of the bushing. So if an alternative could be found, it would be welcome.

modirt wrote:

Tracy Martin TN wrote:

The pin needs to be longer. I would use a cylinder shaft rod, hard on outside with soft center core. You can weld a bolt to bushing to get it out with slap hammer. McMaster Carr has the shafting. HTH Tracy

Do you have a link to the exact shafting you describe? I've been to the MC site and a guy could get lost in there for days.

And there was a lot of discussion about making the pin longer than the original and replacement pin, as it needs to be longer to ride along the full length of the bushing. So if an alternative could be found, it would be welcome.

I have fixed many of them. I made a fixture to align new pin and the pivot at rear of axle support. I don't remember how much longer it can be. Best to have it in place, pulled tight against rear support radius rod. Measure gap from front of axle tube to front pivot support. Then measure depth of hole in support, add the two together, subtract 1/8 for clearance. This dimension can be standing proud in front of tube. Total length would be this proud dimension plus width of tube. HTH Tracy

No greater gift than healthy grandkids!

I was by the shop yesterday.

Rear wheels are back on, engine is back in (with new clutch and ring gear), rebuilt starter is back on, etc.

Still waiting on welder and front axle to finish putting it back together.

Since tractor has been sitting, at least a quart of oil has leaked out of the rear axle. That is in addition to a small leak I found while she was sitting in my barn. Once she is back together and running, we will need to find the source of both leaks, but also to find out if the transmission is good, or if she jumps out of gear.

Stay tuned!

Was able to stop in last week and check your project out. A lot of work going on with that old girl...It will come together pretty quick.

PS: That was likely the first time she moved under her own power in about 20 years. There is video..............not that I would tease you or anything like that.

Modirt is doin the Treasure of the Sierra Madre Jig https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9E-01dK5zQ Thumbs Up

1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp

So chasing down the source of the rear oil leak. A few months back when I was topping up fluids, a leak popped up under the back axle. So I found and tightened one of the large bolts that holds the hitch assembly on. The bolt head can be seen in this photo, above and left of the drawbar pin and directly above the sway chain bolt......its the gray bolt head with oil dripping from it..........

So it has started leaking again.

The question I have for informed D15 gurus, is there an oil reservoir above the threads of this bolt that is the source of the oil leak.......OR......is that supposed to be a dry hole that is not dry....... instead, it has oil leaking into it from some hidden source, that oil then seeping past the threads and onto the ground?

Also, is it common for these bolts to work loose, allowing the whole hitch getting sloppy loose from wear from flopping around?

Edited by modirt - 03 Oct 2018 at 4:30pm

This bolt..........

OK....here is what we found out.

First, the bolt shown in the photo is not supposed to be a bolt. Parts manual shows it to be a stud with washer and nut on the bottom. Stud is to be coated with sealant, then screwed into place to setup. Once set, nut goes on. Reason for the sealant is the hole opens into the transmission case. When we pulled the bolt, the entire contents of the transmission dumped into a bucket.

So the original stud was long gone. It had been replaced with a cap screw like the other three that holds the 3 point hitch and drawbar bracket on. Cap screws 3" x 3/4" Grade 8 machine bolts. The one we had had not been locked in place with sealant.

Stud has a part number, but is no longer available from AGCO. An odd thing, so not available locally either. Next step is to check McMaster Carr. If none shows up, new cap screw is going back in.

Still don't know if the other 3 cap screws, all of which are firmly in place, also open into oil reservoirs or dead end in space, but all three are going to be replaced and locked in place just the same.

Sorry.......since the last update, there were two different related threads about this.............

The mystery of the stud........

https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/looking-for-a-stud_topic154648_page1.html

And an issue with the factory 3 point hitch casting.......

https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/d15-3-point_topic154856_page1.html

If all goes as planned, she may be put back together and running in the next week or so.

We have about run out of known issues to fix. Clap

Either that or its the calm before the storm! LOL

Is everything coming together?

Nice seeing you get your tractor to a solid state. It's hard to know were to stop spending money on a old tractor. looks like you've made some good decisions to me so far. That tractor will be around a long time now. Good luck as you finish her up!

Two thumbs up.

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