D12 breaking in half! Trans housing cracked.

D12 series 3, 1964 or 65. I've noticed a tiny bit of fluid on the transmission/differential housing in the past, right under the front edge of seat. Could never see where it was coming from. After loading the lift yesterday with some wood, it became quite clear that the housing is cracked. Trying to upload pictures. The tractor guy I talked to said it's bad, tractor is basically breaking in half. He won't have time to look at it soon so I came here to see if anyone else has had this happen. I read somewhere that it might be fixed by welding a plate that bridges the crack. Comments? Advice?

Also I checked with the local tractor salvage about replacing it and they need the casting number. It's hard to read and I'm not sure if it's 223845 or 223846. I've seen 223845 listed for the D12, but it sure looks like a 6 after sanding the raised areas. Mine does have the dual range transmission so maybe there is a difference in casting numbers? Anybody have the old parts manual to check this?

Edited by ShellJ - 24 Oct 2022 at 9:33pm

Steve, my d-10 III had that same stud busted, at about the same place.  Only found out, when I had the original torque tube replaced, with a Hilo transmission.  IIRR, the stud goes back into the rear about 2-3 inches, and was broken at about the halfway point of the threaded portion...

Sad to see.  Some tractors never should have loaders mounted on them - especially the smaller ones.  Is it an AC loader?  Do you have a weight box on back of the tractor?

Some times freak break downs just happen without a logical explanation. Usually they happen to me. Though lol
Darrel

Looks like you should get with Gary....

Depends on where you're located. I'm checking the scrap yards around here. The repair man did say he might be able to fix it but he has to look first.

That West Allis metal is getting old and will show its age like this with strain on it

I bought a series I D12 with a loader on it and it cracked the torque housing,

Edited by Acdiesel - 28 Oct 2022 at 10:43am

Cast STEEL normally welds up pretty good.. Cast iron ,not so good... Allis used a lot of cast STEEL and most was good quality as far as i know.. I have welded on a rear wheel hub of an Allis "B" and welded up fine ( repair of some splines) .... all i used was 7018 low hydrogen rod - stick weld.

Edited by steve(ill) - 27 Oct 2022 at 12:50pm

About thirty years ago, a friend of mine was pull starting a semi tractor, with an IH 856. Long story short, the bumper of the semi caught the rear tires of the tractor, climbed the rear of the tractor and cracked a lot of the castings. Local machine shop welded all of the castings back together. He still has the tractor, and it still runs.

I'm leaning toward replacing instead of welding. Since there is confusion over the casting number, I ordered a parts catalog reprint and am looking at the transmission & differential pages. "Housing, transmission & differential" shows only part #0231571-1. It does not show it to be different for with or without range transmission. (The torque housing is different of course.) So basically I'm asking now, what is the casting number for? It doesn't match the part number. From looking at this catalog, it seems I can use a transmission housing from any D12 or D10. Any catalog experts that can confirm this as well?

ShellJ, you might check with Austin's tractor salvage over by Butler Mo, there's another place down by Harrison Arkansas phone number 870-715-7495, I was there a couple months ago and bought a couple things for my CA, I don't know if he has a D10 or D12 but he does have several acres of tractors he parts out.

Unless you magnaflux the used part you have no reason to believe a crack wont apear after you get it put back together and start using. Cast steel is not bad to weld. I've seen several C s welded and grazed I had my shifting forks grazed a couple years ago the local blacksmith prefers to graze them hes never had one retake in the 40 years hes been doing it. I can weld mig tig stick and gas at my shop but anything requiring massive disassemble to get to I prefer a professional do. Dad brazen together the shifting forks in a dozen it was still working great 20 years later when he got rid of it.