D12 breaking in half! Trans housing cracked.
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=191455
Printed Date: 19 Aug 2025 at 2:48am
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Topic: D12 breaking in half! Trans housing cracked.
Posted By: ShellJ
Subject: D12 breaking in half! Trans housing cracked.
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2022 at 9:10pm
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D12 series 3, 1964 or 65. I've noticed a tiny bit of fluid on the transmission/differential housing in the past, right under the front edge of seat. Could never see where it was coming from. After loading the lift yesterday with some wood, it became quite clear that the housing is cracked. Trying to upload pictures. The tractor guy I talked to said it's bad, tractor is basically breaking in half. He won't have time to look at it soon so I came here to see if anyone else has had this happen. I read somewhere that it might be fixed by welding a plate that bridges the crack. Comments? Advice? Also I checked with the local tractor salvage about replacing it and they need the casting number. It's hard to read and I'm not sure if it's 223845 or 223846. I've seen 223845 listed for the D12, but it sure looks like a 6 after sanding the raised areas. Mine does have the dual range transmission so maybe there is a difference in casting numbers? Anybody have the old parts manual to check this?    
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Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2022 at 11:02pm
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II would guess the front end loader is putting too much load on the transmission case.. You lift a heavy load and the back end of tractor gets light and the center of tractor tries to FLEX..... Green shows the top STUD going into the trans case.. I bet it only screws in an inch or 1-1/2 .... The crack ( white) occurs just behind that... Not a real good way to fix it. Welding might work on a non-loader tractor, but i doubt it would be a long term fix on this one. A plate across the top, like a FRAME, would have been a good idea... from the top two studs in front of the HI-LOW ... to the two vertical bolts on the seat frame mount.  ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2022 at 4:41am
Steve, my d-10 III had that same stud busted, at about the same place. Only found out, when I had the original torque tube replaced, with a Hilo transmission. IIRR, the stud goes back into the rear about 2-3 inches, and was broken at about the halfway point of the threaded portion... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2022 at 8:44am
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that is a little surprising Dave.. but i guess that just shows how much load is really on that JOINT as it trys to flex ... I would have thought the two bolts would determine where the crack started.
Dave... did you have a loader ? or is this just due to the HI- LO added box ? ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2022 at 11:15am
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Sad to see. Some tractors never should have loaders mounted on them - especially the smaller ones. Is it an AC loader? Do you have a weight box on back of the tractor? ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: ShellJ
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2022 at 1:10pm
| It doesn't have a front loader. It has a fork on the back with a platform that we haul stuff on. No weights on the front at this time either. The weights are at the old farm so I know they haven't been on the tractor in over 25 years. My step-dad bought this tractor new when they owned a dealership and used it for mowing, hauling stuff on the rear lift, plowed the garden each year. Maybe pulled the hay wagon way way back in the old days. I'm surprised and sad that this happened, but it probably has had a tiny crack there for a long time and just became obvious. It was so coated with old dirt and grease which I cleaned off last year, and this is the first time we've put a load on the back since then. |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2022 at 1:41pm
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Some times freak break downs just happen without a logical explanation. Usually they happen to me. Though lol Darrel |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2022 at 1:50pm
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I have a Series III D12 from the bellhousing back if you get desperate.Been sitting here about 40 years I'd guess. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2022 at 1:55pm
| Looks like you should get with Gary.... |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2022 at 2:11pm
| "Mowing". With a sickle bar? Sometimes, that vibration does a number on cast iron after years of it. Mechanical things do wear out and break down in time. Imperfection in the casting. Could be other things too. A shame, but defecation has been known to occur. |
Posted By: ShellJ
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2022 at 2:15pm
| Depends on where you're located. I'm checking the scrap yards around here. The repair man did say he might be able to fix it but he has to look first. |
Posted By: ShellJ
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2022 at 2:19pm
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Mowing with a finish mower, PTO? I'm not a tractor expert obviously lol, but it's a mower that pulls behind. Anybody have info or opinions on the casting number? |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2022 at 2:39pm
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Last digit to me looks like a 6. I would think a good welder that can weld cast iron could fix that. "V" the crack, and weld it in. We had a guy at work that welded manifolds, bellhousings, engine blocks, things like that in cast. He would "V' the crack with his grinder, have one of the guys heat the area up with a torch, and he'd weld an inch at a time till he got it all welded. Let it cool over night, and grind it up nice in the morning and finish it up. Couldn't even see where he repaired it. He was good!! Steve@B&B ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2022 at 5:16pm
I bought the tractor used, hadda woods mower under it, and turf tires and NO HILO, just the torque tube. I found rims, tires, HILO trans, and when replacing the torque tube with the HILO, the cracked stud was discovered. IIRR, both pieces came out, together, then fell apart. THere was no cracking or leaking in the rear casting...  ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
steve(ill) wrote:Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2022 at 6:49pm
| That West Allis metal is getting old and will show its age like this with strain on it |
Posted By: ShellJ
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2022 at 9:48pm
| Well thanks for the input everyone. I'll update with the end result. |
Posted By: Acdiesel
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2022 at 10:59am
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I bought a series I D12 with a loader on it and it cracked the torque housing, but also the 4 bolts/nuts were loose that bolt the torque tube to the transmission. I did remove the loader I was able to cut V-groove in it, weld it and grind it out smooth. I did have to completely remove the torque tube to weld the inside as well. Cast steel does need heated and cooled properly and the correct welding rod ( cant remember the number off the top of my head) Have not had any more issues with it since. Dan
------------- D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3 2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF D15 SER.2 DIESEL D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II 2-720'S D21 Ser. II Gmc,caterpillar I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger) |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2022 at 11:12am
| But, this tractor in question is cracked on the transmission case, not the torque tube. There's oil seeping thru the crack. A torque tube is dry unless it has the high-low gearcase. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2022 at 12:48pm
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Cast STEEL normally welds up pretty good.. Cast iron ,not so good... Allis used a lot of cast STEEL and most was good quality as far as i know.. I have welded on a rear wheel hub of an Allis "B" and welded up fine ( repair of some splines) .... all i used was 7018 low hydrogen rod - stick weld. Yes, the trans would have to be removed and CLEANED..I dont think i would VEE it out and try to weld in place... You can not have oil residue during the weld.. Preheat of 200 degrees in that area is also a good idea. ... i still think i would look at adding a backbone PLATE across the top, similar to a frame , to reduce the flexing.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: TramwayGuy
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2022 at 12:55pm
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If oil is seeping through the crack, it will be imperative to clean that out before welding, if you go that route! The preheating might take care of what’s left after cleaning. |
Posted By: bigal121892
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2022 at 4:10pm
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About thirty years ago, a friend of mine was pull starting a semi tractor, with an IH 856. Long story short, the bumper of the semi caught the rear tires of the tractor, climbed the rear of the tractor and cracked a lot of the castings. Local machine shop welded all of the castings back together. He still has the tractor, and it still runs. |
Posted By: ShellJ
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2022 at 2:15pm
Yikes! But gives me hope that welding would actually work. |
Posted By: ShellJ
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2022 at 12:19pm
| I'm leaning toward replacing instead of welding. Since there is confusion over the casting number, I ordered a parts catalog reprint and am looking at the transmission & differential pages. "Housing, transmission & differential" shows only part #0231571-1. It does not show it to be different for with or without range transmission. (The torque housing is different of course.) So basically I'm asking now, what is the casting number for? It doesn't match the part number. From looking at this catalog, it seems I can use a transmission housing from any D12 or D10. Any catalog experts that can confirm this as well? |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2022 at 12:39pm
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the casting number is just that.. a ROUGH CAST PART.. that can be machined to a finished part.. It is possible to have a part machined into two different final parts.. I dont think the part number is going to make any difference to you. You are not going to buy one from a dealer or factory.. Your going to have to look on line / scrap yard / retired tractors and get a " good used one"...... You may want to reconsider having yours welded by a professional. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: TomC
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2022 at 5:26pm
| ShellJ, you might check with Austin's tractor salvage over by Butler Mo, there's another place down by Harrison Arkansas phone number 870-715-7495, I was there a couple months ago and bought a couple things for my CA, I don't know if he has a D10 or D12 but he does have several acres of tractors he parts out. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2022 at 5:36pm
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Gary had one above in post #8 ... dont know if he still has it.. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2022 at 6:13pm
| Unless you magnaflux the used part you have no reason to believe a crack wont apear after you get it put back together and start using. Cast steel is not bad to weld. I've seen several C s welded and grazed I had my shifting forks grazed a couple years ago the local blacksmith prefers to graze them hes never had one retake in the 40 years hes been doing it. I can weld mig tig stick and gas at my shop but anything requiring massive disassemble to get to I prefer a professional do. Dad brazen together the shifting forks in a dozen it was still working great 20 years later when he got rid of it. |
Posted By: ShellJ
Date Posted: 10 Dec 2022 at 9:59am
| TomC, we checked Austin's already since they're only 45 minutes away. Also checked Cooks in Clinton. Both have the bare case but pretty pricey at $300 & $425 respectively. Dakota Dave, I am concerned that the used ones could crack like you say. Cooks has a 90 day warranty but still it would be very costly to have it replaced and then have it crack. I've found 2 local guys that agree welding is the best "first" option. One is going to try and come look at it tomorrow in person. The other thinks it can be welded in place, without disassembly. I know that was already discussed above and opinions differ. |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2022 at 4:29pm
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To weld this casting, it will need to be removed, and thoroghly cleaned out with a very volatile solvent. You don't want to heat it up with a torch, or with any significant oil residue in there, as it will become carbon soot impregnated into the weld fissure, effectively, making reliable weld penetration basically impossible. How would "I" do it? I'd disassamble it, rinse it out with acetone, blow out the crack with dry compressed air, rinse it out with acetone... blow it out again, then put it in an electric oven for about 10 hours, bring it up to 475F or so... then cool it slow, drill the ends of the crack, groove the crack, rinse it out with acetone again, heat it to 500F, then TIG it with either high-nickel, or silicon-bronze filler. Once that's done, put it back into the oven at 450, leave it for a day, then dial it down to 300F for a day, then shut it off and let it cool slowly on it's own. Then I'd probably drill and tap the holes to accept a 1/4" fine thread bolt, apply red loctite, thread it in 'till flush with the back side, let it set up, then saw off the bolt on the outside and grind it flush. As for wether it'll survive the strain there, I can't tell. I don't see why the crack would have started, if it didn't have a loader on it, there wouldn't be any significant load reactions that'd cause this kind of a fatigue. Usually, when strange cracks appear in castings, my first thought, is that water got in and froze. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |