CRAP NEED A IDEA

OK so Im replacing the headgasket on the 7040 and I start to retorque the head and start at 90 then 110 then I try to get to 165 according to the book 1st off besides being scary hard to try to get to 165 my wors fear happens a head bolt number 2 on the pattern breaks off!!!!!!  so now IM screwed in a few ways 1st am I stuck with that one bolt trying to tap it out or is there a way I can work around that bread and let the other 25 bolts do there job???  next I am likely going to replace head bolts as I dont need any trouble are the head bolts grade 5 8 or 10????  next question if I have to try to drill and easy out that other head bolt am I now out a 135 dollar head gasket that we worked so hard to get just right???  last question is 165 foot pds really how far I need to go I mean come on semi cummins accoring to my one spec book only go to 150?????  I really dont want to break any more bolts off....

I thought 165 seemed too high thats what this stupid book here is calling for...  I dont quite understand the extraction part but do want to try a way that doesnt involve me removing the head and ruining a brand new gasket..

Burgie's got the right idea. Find a peice of steel tubing that will fit through the bolt hole, so you don't weld anything to the head itself or the block. Stick that rod down through there. (Rockmount makes a stud-plus rod just for this). Get someone to turn on the welder.(really high setting). You should be able to fuse the rod, the tubing, and the broken stud together. The whole mess should screw out then. The boken part isn't what is tight, that part should screw out real easy. I would get all new head bolts, since you're going to 150 Lb/ft.

I always replace head bolts, that also seems like a big jump from 110 to 165 foot lbs

If you got that one down to 165 before breaking, or if you got any others to 165#, you may need another head gasket anyways. 

Check your torque wrench too.  I did the same thing to a rod bolt in my 301 this summer.  It was an inaccurate torque wrench.  Also, oil the threads and under the head of the bolts.  Check the other ones for any signs of stretching (as in they are necking usually around where the threads start and the shank ends).  If you had an inaccurate torque wrench, you could very well have stretched at least the one that didn't break.  I really doubt you stretched the other ones, as I don't see a torque wrench being that inaccurate.

I done that once on a B head, but was lucky enough to drill the broken stud and back it out with an easy out.

These head bolts are grade 100, some are 95. Don't go less than 165 LB they will take it.

OK which is it Ive got one book says 165 and my friends and another gentelmens say 150 which shall I do 165 or 150???

MACK is an AC guy who has worked on plenty of these 426's.I'd trust his advice.You did clean all bolt holes before installing head,right? My AC manual isn't here to see what it says for torque(8010-8070).Ten pound increments will not work well at higher end of range.20 would be better.

OK Im at 120 now so Ill bump them up and split the diff and go 120 - 140 then 140 up to 160 then Ill pop up the last 5 lbs  ya cleaned the holes and like the book said put just a couple drops oil on them and before the install used the air gun to do a final blow out of the holes I wonder if trying to go from 110 to 160 was too much??????

I'd throw out the old bolts and get new head bolts from AGCO. They may actually be ARP's.  AGCO rod bolts for 426 engines are stamped ARP. Been there and done that on two D-21's.  Neighbour had a head gasket fail on a D-19 diesel work tractor. He threw out the old bolts and ordered ARP's directly from ARP. They sent the wrong ones twice but finially got it right. Since this is a big weak point on the D-19 diesel's, hopefull the ARP's will solve the problem.