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Coggonobrien's 616 Thread Picture Heavy

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coggonobrien View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2015 at 2:50am
gotcha, found the timing cover on my nos is the same casting but not machined to accept the stator.  Cleaned up the old ccka timing cover and got a new crank seal and cover gasket.  Just waiting on the arrival of the governor seal.  Anything special when reinstalling the cover?  Or just make sure the governor is oriented the right direction. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2015 at 11:55pm
still waiting on governor seal, should be here friday.  unfortunately noticed after cleaning that my flywheel is cracked so I will be purchasing a replacement.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan 2015 at 11:57pm
new lip seals installed in the 616 timing cover, new gasket, a dab of silicone and it's torqued down.  I was surprised to find the governor shaft was different on the cckb engine which was kind of disappointing but there was minimal wear on the 616 so we used it.  Now just trying to line up a new flywheel as we discovered a crack in mine.
David
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2015 at 4:05pm
finally got a little work done today, swapped over the correct cckb timing cover and the oil pan from the ccka (same casting but not machined to mount some of the extra doo dads)  just an fyi if you need onan parts call a cummins dealership, they own them now and the prices will be less than half of what agco charges
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2015 at 7:28pm
Finally got a charging system to match the fly wheel





Looks like the carb does not have a return port


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Tracy Martin TN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2015 at 7:51pm
How much was the stator? Where did you find it at? thanks tracy
No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2015 at 7:57pm
Board member sold me the stator with new rectifier and regulator for 105 shipped
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2015 at 7:59pm
Was the engine for a generator? I have one similar to that one. Thanks tracy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2015 at 11:53pm
yeah i think it was a generator engine.  had no charging system and a big squirel cage fan mounted to the flywheel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2015 at 8:22am
Dave! Glad to see you finally got something to work for ya! Great to hear! Over another hurdle hopefully...
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2015 at 4:59pm
ok discovered another hurtle as most of you probably know. front crank support is different (my generator motor does not have holes for mounting the front clutch magnet) will be calling cumin's tomorrow to order the gasket and lip seal.



replaced the transcooler hoses while the engine was out.

Got the b&b wiring harness spliced in and needing some direction from folks. I've got it sitting in the harness loop leading to the front rail but unsure how to route it from there. Does it just sitting inside the right between the right side of the engine and the rail? how do the wires route going to the ignition, charging system, starter and electric clutch?
also this little do hickey was on the yellow wire of what was left of the old harness. Do I need it?


and where do these newer rectifier/regulator get mounted?


does anybody have part 46 from this drawing and the stud and want to part with them?
http://s161.photobucket.com/user/coggonobrien/media/616/20150320_172347_zpsyd1nq9w7.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

Can someone show me how the cckb pre-cleaner mounts to the engine shroud and if there is a hole cut in the shroud to let air in.

and finally I need a belly pan so if somebody has one they want to sell reasonably let me know or I might just cut one on the laser at work.

THanks!
David
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2015 at 7:32pm
anybody?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2015 at 7:22pm


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2015 at 9:05pm
Sorry Dave, haven't been keeping up with your post lately. That do-hicky is a circuit breaker. Its located between the starter sol. and the wiring harness. That is you power in circuit. We have those in stock, but you should be able to pick one up in a Napa store or equiv. locally. They're usually 20 amp. The VR/Rectifier usually mounts down on the lower flywheel shroud. That one is a replacement which is much smaller than the original. I don't know if you need the muffler shield anymore, but there's a guy on e-bay that has a bunch of shields....
Steve
Forgot to add- on my 620, the harness just layed down along the inside of the frame rail between the engine and frame rail. Not sure if it was like that originally, but my 620 was pretty much untouched by the PO...

Edited by Steve in NJ - 30 Mar 2015 at 8:10am
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2015 at 11:03am
awesome thanks Steve, you don't happen to have pictures of how the wires are routed up to the ignition do you?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2015 at 11:44am
Originally posted by coggonobrien coggonobrien wrote:



 I see the tell tale signs of deck rot . Probably need to fix that before it gets worse. Tracy
No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2015 at 11:53am
Tracy,

I'm going to strip it down and blast it. Then patch, paint and reassemble. I've got access to a laser at work so parts ought to fit pretty nice. Any particular spots you feel need attention besides the upper right corner?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2015 at 5:13pm
The worst thing about those decks, is where they catch debris under the belt guards. They tend to rot out there, to the point a spindle housing will break out.
No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2015 at 7:59pm
front hubs are back on but no pictures. total cost for all new bearings, races, and seals was $72.04
part numbers all x2
timl44610 $5.8115
TIMLM11949 $10.5320
TIMLM11910 $5.6646
TIML44643 $12.4909
WHLBPGS100 $1.5274
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2015 at 7:51am
Made some progress with my best shop manager last night. Definitely the highlight of her day.

Engine is together with correct crank support. End clearance at .009. Hubs assembled and wheels on. Deck spindles all of. Deck is almost ready for sand blasting.









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote macvette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2015 at 2:15pm
Boy, that little one sure is cute!  I see she even has the AC sweat pants on.  Definately got her headed down the right road.  Looks like I can already see  "my tractor" on her face about this 620!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2015 at 5:42pm
That little shop manager is a little doll!  LOL! She looks a little like my Grandaughter Emily.
Dave, unfortunately, I dont' have a pic of what the OEM harness under the dash looks like. I have my own 620 wired, but its not even close to stock. Its all custom under the dash...
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2015 at 8:25am
Steve I'm good with the underdash wiring, I'm just trying to figure out how to route wires from the frame rail up to the charging system/ignition/front clutch. did they just lay on the motor or was there something better than that.

also I posted a question about the deck spindles in another topic but if somebody wants to answer it here that is fine. do the 2 clamshells split to take a part and replace the bearings or do they stay together.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2015 at 6:27pm


Spun the engine over before setting it in frame. Just used a 20 amp battery charger to juice it. Hooked up the white lead to the harness and the yellow through the 20 amp circuit breaker and then to the positive post on the battery. Hit the light switch and had juice so hit the key and even without the engine bolted down it grounded well enough to bump the.motor when I hit the key. Getting closer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2015 at 6:28pm
How does the front portion of the clutch attach to the engine
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2015 at 6:52pm
 looks real great you have done alot of work    But put a oil preasure gauge on while the tin is off and check oil presure i  did before i started mine and had no oil presure had to take it bake down found out one of the gears [oil pump gears ]  was sheared in side the pump         sure glad i didnt wait till the light was hooked up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2015 at 6:56pm
 buy the way i put a tee in and put a 2 " guage in the dash above the amp meter  sothe light is still hooked up allso
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2015 at 8:36pm
could you post a picture of where you tied oil pressure gauge into
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2015 at 10:20am
likie i say when learn how to a pic  i think i will have a pic each day                 but right above the oil filter there is the sen der for the oil light     remove that    it  is 1/8" npt put a bronze close nip. in it      screw 1/8 square tee run end with branch straight up put sender back in the end of the run      oil line can then still run up with the ingintion wires                                  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2015 at 10:27am
just noticed in a pic on here it shows 90 fittting with a oil line on it that is where your sender would thread in remove that 90 for your tee
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